Richelieu

What EMS, make & model will run the following on a 6 cyl. engine? *direct fire individual coil on plug ignition *CDI *12 staged sequential injectors (high &/or low impedance) *6 Lamda sensors (narrow &/or wide band)

RICE is, "I want my car to be such-n-such because it will give me an ego boost." Rice is modifications that don't/(society doesn't think) have a worthwhile purpose, which ranges from stickers to bitey clutches that mean you arc the wheels up everytime you leave the lights to huge power outputs on street driven or showcars. Power ratings would be better understood if they were follwed by "@xxxxrpm" and a torque rating. Most people will understand if you tell them the car has a 1800rpm powerband as long as you tell them it's a specific track car but don't expect them not to laugh if you tell them it's your everyday car.

When you say "revalved" do you mean the same as reshimmed?

Peugeot 307 WRC testing - 5 min - 26Mb http://fttt.free.fr/307wrc_made_by_thib38.wmv

If you know the intake valve diameter you can work out the power potential using the calculations from the attached website. http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/pp03.htm

By increasing the offset you have most probably increased the scrub radius. Any bump or cornering force applied to the tyre exerts a twisting force on the steering that is proportional to the scrub radius. If the scrub radius were zero the twisting forces would be zero. By increasing the scrub radius you have increased the force exerted on your tyres hence greater scrub. Stiffer springs will not solve this. You need to get rims with the correct offset.

A Peugeot 206 GTi180 or Clio Sport will kill any of the others bar maybe the Integra. Through the twisties an S2000 or Ford hasn't got a chance.

G’day EvilElmo I’m in the process of designing a car from scratch and it’s a bitch. You need alot of time and alot of patience. Firstly you should decide what sort of car you would like to design, road or race car, for example: Group B rally car Le Mans Prototype 675/900 Road/Sports car e.g Lotus Elise Replica e.g. 60’s Ferrari/Aston Martin Clubman type vehicle. Or something that doesn’t fit into those categories. Look up the Australian Design Rules so you know what the design must include. Find out what materials your school will pay for and how much they will pay. They should cover simple materials like tubing for chassis construction but they won’t pay for the engine, brakes or other specific automotive parts and possibly not even Fiberglas or paint. The following includes a list of useful engineering books and some websites. The Gmecca site will help in telling you what components you need, so you can search for prices, and tell you what parts of the vehicle to design in which order i.e tyres inward. The Mulsanne’s Corner includes a link to Le Mans Prototype design rules, which can give you and idea of dimensions and design ideas if you choose the track/race car option. The Juno Racing and Formula SAE websites are to give you similar ideas. Engineer to Win: The Essential Guide to Racing Car Materials Technology or How to Build Winners Which Don't Break by Carroll Smith Tune to Win: The Art and Science of Race Car Development and Tuning by Carroll Smith Drive to Win: The Essential Guide to Race Driving by Carroll Smith Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook by Carroll Smith Chassis Engineering/Chassis Design, Building & Tuning for High Performance Handling by Herb Adams Competition Car Suspension: Design, Construction, Tuning by Allan Staniforth Competition Car Data Logging – A practical handbook by Simon McBeath How to Make Your Car Handle by Fred Puhn Sheet Metal Handbook by Ron and Sue Fournier Race Car Engineering & Mechanics by Paul Van Valkenburgh How to Build and Modify Sportscar and Kit Car Suspension & Brakes for Road and Track by Des Hammill Competition Car Preparation – A practical handbook by Simon Mcbeath Performance Welding by Richard Finch How to Run a Successful Race Team by Steve Smith How to Blueprint & Build a 4-Cylinder Short Block for High-Performance by Des Hammill Race and Rally Car Source Book by Allan Staniforth How to Choose Camshafts & Time Them for Maximum Power by Des Hammill Auto Math Handbook: Calculations, Formulas, Equations and Theory for Automotive Enthusiasts by John Lawlor The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting: Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding by Rick Voegelin Fiberglass & Composite Materials: An Enthusiast’s Guide to High Performance Non-Metallic Materials for Automotive Racing and Marine Use by Forbes Aird Aerodynamics for Racing and Performance Cars by Forbes Aird Race Car Aerodynamics: Designing for Speed by Joseph Katz Low-Speed Aerodynamics by Joseph Katz and Allen Plotkin Brake Systems: OEM & Racing Brake Technology by Mike Mavrigian and Larry W. Carley Performance Wheels & Tyres: Tire Construction, Tire Construction, Tire Sizes, Alignment, High Performance Street & Racing Tires, Tire Testing & Tuning, Plus Sizing, Mounting, Balancing & Fasteners by Mike Mavrigian Brake Handbook by Fred Puhn The Car Builder’s Handbook: Tips and Techniques for Builders of Kit Cars and Street Rods by Doug McCleary Fiberglass Repair and Construction Handbook by Jack Wiley Race Car Chassis: Design and Construction by Forbes Aird Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by William F. Milliken, Douglas L. Milliken Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics by Thomas D. Gillespie http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/index.html http://www.mulsannescorner.com/ http://www.junoracing.co.uk/ http://www.sae-a.com.au/fsae/index.htm Purchasing the books you need will cost close to if not over $1000. Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by William F. Milliken, Douglas L. Milliken I saw second hand for $208. Damn good book though but that’s an extreme case of price. Start with vehicle dynamics, chassis and suspension design books. By then you’ll know what area you need to know about next. Don’t be thinking 18” rims and turbo conversions because bang for buck they’re not worth it even if you can afford them. And don’t think up crazy shit like mid-mount 4wd stuff because you won’t find a donor car. Another option is to take an old car and restore it. Much Cheaper and still good fun to drive! My pick would be a Datsun 240Z, Ford Mk2 Escort or possibly something even as modern as a Peugeot 205 Gti. Whatever floats your boat but pick a car with good chassis design to start with, not Cadillacs and Yank stuff. The three cars mentioned will easily put paid to your Corolla. I don’t think you would be able to build a car from scratch and have it on the road under $20000 but I may be wrong. $20000 = 89 GTR Any other questions feel free to ask.

To add to that, last week in a Gold Coast newspaper there were two separate articles both mentionaing Skylines. One was a story about a Skyline that had been cut in half by a tree when it left the road at speed and included photos and the other involved the driver of a Skyline getting out of his car after some drunk wandered onto the road then punched the drunk on the jaw occasioning bodily harm. Neither help the image of Skyline drivers. How many incidences involving yob Falcadore drivers get mention?

"Rich boys die young!" Shouted by some yob in a rusty F100 ute @ P plate R33.

Why don't they just do skidpan testing? That'll tell which tyre has the greatest lateral grip straight away! The dry lap wet lap rubbish has too many variables.

Could change next year come all the 15 yr R32s

Peugeot 206 Gti 180 133kW 202Nm 1100kg Honda, Opel or Peugeot, you can't lose. Great chassis in all three and good power to weight. Peugeot engine isn't peaky like Hondas and comes with 17s standard. You also don't get ricer sh1t with the pug or opel.

Fair enough. You guys are right.

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/articles/406sup...os/photo_4.html third coloum, halfway down, says flywheel weighs in at less than 500g.

For piece of mind, billet alloy flywheels weigh in at less than 1 kg.

Opel for the chassis. VWs have poor handling and brakes. Factory claimed figures are rarely accurate because some manufacturers carry out the tests with half a tank of fuel and a passenger. And straight line figures don't mean shit. Its when you get to the twisties that it counts, oh, and daily drivability. Look for an overall package not just power. And for all of you who doubt front wheel drive naturally aspirated cars, go check out the french film TAXI.

Who in Australia sells competition fuel cells and how is the fuel system set up in the car, i.e. how are the fuel lines routed?

Cheers.

Will the 4 piston calipers off an R32 or R33 GTST fit under 15" wheels? Its for a rally car.

There is a review of the G-Tech in use on a GTR in "Performance Buildups" magazine.

Television doesn't compare with actuallly being there. I don't care much for the V8s but i went to the 24hr last year which was great. Up the top of the mountain you can walk around almost half the track. You can stand at Skyline and get your ears blasted as they downshift before the chicanes and the next day the sounds and smells are still stuck in your mind. The thing that puts most people off V8s is that Holden vs Ford bullcrap. All the guys who get fired up about that are just ignorant bogans.

So that means that if i import a car with gt2530, intercooler, coilovers, etc. there is a chance i could end up with a car missing a whole heap of parts and have to purchase stock items? That's what i meant to do.

Props to the Austrians that set this up http://www.saudrawig.com/php/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=197

Say you bought a 89 GTR and could get it landed, under the current 15 year rule (pre Oct 03) for $17000, how much extra will it cost to import the car under normal rules (non-15 year rule)?