R33_Dude

ForSale 1990 Toyota Supra MA71 143,000 kilometres. Just serviced with fully synthetic oils, top gun leads, platinum plugs, air and oil filters etc. Always run on BP Ultimate 98. Comes with turbo engine cover, only removed to easily accessspark plugs. Registered until June. 7MGTE, completely unmodified except for a fresh head gasket and head bolts (done only for reliability, not due to gasket problem). One of the most reliable cars I have owned. Starts every time with no fuss and uses no oil or water. Stock boost level on the standard CT26 turbo.Tyres are in good condition with approximately 60% tread left. Resprayed by previous owner bright blue, black engine bay and door sills. Originally white. Wheels are matte white, can be polished back to alloy if buyer wishes. Aftermarket clear headlights. Immaculate bluesuede, leather and vinyl interior with no marks. Dash is not cracked. Comes with floor mats. Electric driver seat. All electrics work perfectly. Fully functioning and tested TEMS Suspension with three available settings. Sportsmuffler/cannon, reasonably quiet as the rest of the system is stock. Does not come with stereo. Can organise a cd player if wanted for extra.All in all it is in great mechanical condition. Alsocomes with a manual boost controller fitted but still runningstandard boost, and a Speco Boost guage fitted. $4000o.n.o, reasonably negotiable. May swap for a manual R31 or similar. Contact me on 0450 379 995. Pictures online here: http://hobart.gumtre...QAdIdZ355365119

As above, wanted for project one Nissan 300C. I really don't care about body condition, rego or anything else as long as it is complete, runs and drives. Will pay up to $1000.00 Located in Hobart but will travel. A carton of cascades finest is available for anyone who can put me on to one that I then buy. If you hear of anything let me know here, via pm or email: [email protected]. Cheers

Heres the advice the insurance dude at shannons gave me: - Get a thick tint on your windows, it doesn't have to be dark just a thick plastic. It makes the glass far harder to break. - Get a set of aftermarket locks like Solex, but don't buy the ones for fifty bucks off the shelf get a good set. - Invest in multi-point immobilisation, fuel, ignition, electrical and so on. Most car thieves can get around this but it will slow them down. - Get a removable steering wheel, it doesn't have to be a quick release it just needs to have easily accessible bolts. Carry a ratchet screwdriver in the glove box and ALWAYS remove the wheel - If you have nice rims get two different sets of lock nuts, its a pain on your end but it prevents people from easily forcing the lock nuts off as they would need two sockets of the perfect size as opposed to one to interference fit them off Its all common sense, it can all be done for under a couple of hundred dollars and it will protect your car. Make sure your insured with at least fire and theft because if they can't steal it, it gets burnt.

I essentially agree with Mr Eps. Coming from skylines I bought a JZZ31 soarer (2JZ - no sh!t). It handles well (for a boat, well I say boat its about the same as a R33), parts are decently priced, they are oh so easy to work on (no joke every bolt is a ten or twelve mm with maybe one exception that I could find [door hinge bolts]), even the wiring looms are well made and easy to understand even for someone who is frightened by complex electronics like myself. Best purchase I ever made and so very cheap. Mine is a 94 model in black with a genuine 79,800 kilometres (yes genuine, we have all the documentation and a friend translated it for us). Needed a little work as the previous owner had crumpled the passenger door but it was nothing beyond someone who is handy with spanners. Just picked up a vertex kit and a bunch of little things before it is re-registered then it will cop a turbo - and the N/A 2JZ will easily handle 400HP with a different head gasket, however I think I will shoot for a super responsive 300 HP. I really respect Toyota's offerings throughout the 90's, incredibly built, incredibly reliable and easy to work on. Can't recommend a soarer enough. Or you know do whatever and get a R34, good cars too.

Hmm, I tell you what leave it with me and I'll think about it. I'll Pm you.

Sorry mate a GTR will make it harder than what I want plus I wouldn't like to put the engine I have into a GTR it would just be wrong - well it already IS wrong almost no matter what car I put it in but in that case it would just be sacrilege. That said shoot me a PM with some relevant details (what is missing and so on) and how much you would want for it and I'll get back to you. Hey Autumn I know about the RX but I will have to give it a miss. Did you get my texts? My phone has been in to Nokia twice this fortnight and its still playing up... Basically I have been resorting to email, facebook and PM contact with people. I would straight swap you for the soarer minus your rims, sound and whatever other bits you would want to even it up though. I'm pretty sure I have some steel rims that could go on temporarily.

Hi all I have a new engine combination being built up slowly and I need a car to put it in. For ease of engineering it has to be one of these cars, an R33 is a possibility but it would have to be the series one on the first or second production year. EDIT: Probably the wrong forum but I would also consider a Porsche 924 or 944 shell if possible. Contact me via PM or by email at [email protected]. Cheers.

I have had a bit of fun lately in a hotted up Fiat 124... Cheap to buy, cheap to mod, reliable, light, handle brilliantly and you can do whatever you want later on - turbo, supercharge, V8 - because they are such a popular chassis to modify. Pick the 1800cc over the 2000cc for some added value. EDIT: Oh and they have an all alloy, twin cam, twin carb (dellorto), five bolt main four cylinder... Pretty damn good in my book and SR20's fit in so easily its not funny - they even look the same as the fiat/alfa engine! DOUBLE EDIT: Plus its Italian so the chicks will love it and you will have many happy sexy fun times...

The way I have sorted out trumpet ITB's on my dads race car (mondeo V6 in a mark II escort) was to have a MAP sensor per throttle and instead of joining them for a single signal, had them seperated as individual inputs per cylinder if that makes sense. When tuned there was still a slight loss of drivability but when we compared dyno graphs from before and after mid to top end changed fairly drastically. On the ram air front we fabbed up an aluminium shroud that bolts underneath the trumpets and around them to the front of the car as a kind of air dam so that we did get a ram effect at higher speeds. Wasn't hard to do but it helps to have a laser cutting machine on your side Idle does suffer with any of the mods we have mentioned though. Unless you have an ingenious system of getting more air and fuel while adjusting cam size at a particular RPM (VTEC, VVTi etc) theres no way around that. I think for a daily drive kind of deal the average person could handle 180HP and the drawbacks associated easily, and then once we get to 200->250 the drawbacks start to outweigh the positives. I mean I would still drive it daily but I am told I have a hearing problem and that I am vibration proof . Added note: I'm not a tuner - I just swing spanners - so I can't comment on how hard it is to tune such a setup, but our tuner has never complained and as above the only differences in graphs were mid to top end when the restrictive effect of the plenum we had outweighed the air drawn by ITB's. EDIT: I also find it astounding that people find it so difficult to get decent naturally aspirated horsepower out of a modern engine design like a RB25DE. The V6 in my Alfa had 160 RWHP stock (actually 158.2 something). With bolt ons (cams, head work, slight modifications, changing the AFM, replacing of worn out parts etc), a piston change and an aftermarket ecu such as Mega Squirt people see 200 HP pretty easily. And thats from a engine with its roots in the dinosaur era. Sure it's mostly that people with Alfas are willing to spend that money in the search of power - they are true enthusiasts - but surely there is something else going on here, whether it be a will to go through with it or that NA skylines are mostly owned by P platers who just get the turbo version once their off their P's, who knows. One day once I finish screwing around with this Italian crap I'll have a go at the NA route.

This comes up all the time but I think my current list for a 100hp per litre RB25DE is: Intake: GT-R independant throttle bodies on adaptor plate. Trumpets. Foam filters (or sans filters if your feeling manly). Head: Full radius cut valve seats (better than a three way job and should be the same price - of not find a different shop), shave to a compression ratio approaching 11:1. Exhaust: Good extractors 3-2-1 design. Haven't found a set I like yet. High temp coated and wrapped in heat wrap. 2.5" straight through stainless pipe - the properties of stainless steel make it a far better choice, especially here where every bit counts. Mandrel bent of course. High flow cat. Two resonators. Muffler. Or if your like me and live in Tassie ignore the muffler, mufflers by default are power prohibitive. ECU: Nistune or other aftermarket system... LAST THING: cams. I would leave them until you have discussed your planned mods with a cam specialist. It would be pricey all in all but I see no reason to touch the bottom end. If you did feel the need, lighten everything, H-beam conrods, knife edge the crank, balance and skip the head shave, and put in higher compression lightweight forged pistons instead. CP make them at whatever compression ratio you want to order. Problem is then after you have done all that your left with an angry car that I imagine would suck as a daily drive... If anything sounds fvcked up or I've forgotten anything - I'm tired, leave me alone.

Car is registered as of today. Amazingly I was faulted on only three things at inspection, all of which took me twenty minutes to correct: - Heater does not blow air at window - One number plate globe - One intermittently faulty reverse light I have to say I could have failed on so many other things (not essential things)... But I take wins where I can get them Also added to the "need to buy" list are high temp silicon coolant hoses from Greg Gordon... Bilsteins on order are taking a while. Can't find a spring that I like either - while it may not look it Alfa 75's sit quite close to the ground already and any drop in height means that ripple strips become problematic let alone speed bumps. Also picking up two parts cars tomorrow for mock up purposes and general testing. On and on it goes.

Coming along nicely I see. By any chance would the dash cluster in the 75 be working? I need a spare...

Okay site has been down or my computer fried and couldn't post. The soarer is a GZ10, yes, and its in pretty decent condition. Only space in the garage for one more sh!tter, er I mean project, unfortunately. Its a coupe, it has minor rust patches but is for the most part an easy repairer. In Tassie it is cheap too - $4000 - and we normally get the raw end of the stick when it comes to prices. The only problem left is the missus who prefers the soarer to the skyline... Anyone got some good arguments, shes a hard one to persuade

Hi everyone I have come across a FJ20ET powered DR30 very cheap. It has a few problems but is running, rego'd and all original under the bonnet. My question is that given that it is not a RS Turbo model, what would be a reasonable price to expect for a DR30 given that it would be restored: i.e. repainted, re-sticker-ed, replaced interior/exterior trim, and given period mags? Essentially how much are people willing to pay for a mint example? I have a choice at the moment of restoring an early soarer or this so any advice would be helpful, the only difference being this has rego and is not as ugly. Thanks.

One easy way that works is to just open it with paint and then go image -> stretch/skew -> and in the horizontal and vertical boxes type in required percent change. file -> save as -> save as type jpeg/jpg or png (not sure if forum supports png format). Tada done. If its a little over you could put it in a zip file.

Hmm I say well worth it not that I would buy one, but thats a different story. The R35 as a whole is selling very well (for a $150,000 super/sub-super car), and I am not surprised that Nissan are drilling customers for money at the moment. Reminds me when my partner wanted to buy a new BMW - there was no way in hell that they were going to drop the price, so we went to Audi instead whose customer service was much nicer. Back on topic they are still trying to gouge an extra 30k out of you there, and I wonder on what basis other than waiting lists and as you said inquiries definitely do not equal sales... On a side note I just came back from a trip to Singapore for business staying with a family member. In the garage was a Lamborghini Murcielago, a Aston DB9S and three R35's all parked next to each other amongst other exotica. R35's easily make up the majority of fast cars on the road over (I have seen countless numbers of them) there followed closely by lambos. Nissan have definitely done something right and waiting lists equal extra profit its proven. Just noticed that you bought it: congrats! (and icksnay on the add me to the pm list stay)

Well to attach the pod filter to the air flow meter there is an adapter, the pod filter slips over the adapter and then clamps down. Its tight fitting but you still need a band or t-clamp to make it fit tight. So its afm -> adaptor -> clamp -> pod filter -> heat shield The band clamp goes around the base of the pod filter which is attached to the adapter. Its pretty easy, and its probably the most simple thing you can do. On the heat shield front, particularly in Australia, if your car isn't moving the air it will be sucking in is engine bay ambient temperature which is hot. Not good on a number of fronts. There are already some good tutorials on here for making heat shields, its easy and cheap. I'll dig up the link for you, but in the future search for this info - most people on here are pretty decent but you can't be spoon fed all the answers all the time. Do the research and ask considered questions and its better for everyone. I'll add that link in a sec. LINK: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...l&hl=shield

Okay the airbox comes off very easily. Unbolt it and put it somewhere safe for when you decide to sell the car. Referring back to my previous post: Edited a touch. Step one: buy an adaptor for a pod filter ($15 at superrepcoautocheapbarn). Step two: remove airbox from car - top and bottom sections. Keep all your screws. Step three: attach adaptor to AFM loosely bolting down finger tight. Step four: attach pod filter to adaptor, make sure you slipped the clamp on before hand. Use good clamps, don't over tighten if you dont want them broken. Step five: check all bolts and screws are tightened. Step six: fit a heat shield of some description. Expected time to complete: 15 mins plus half an hour to go to your local superrepcoautocheapbarn™. Alternative is to fit a high flow panel filter. Will do the same if not better job than an unshielded pod.

+1 for pics, sounds incredible!

^^ Exactly. Something doesn't sound right. Take a picture and we can help you out.

I know several transport inspectors and engineers who can tell if your cat has been gutted just by the sound. It is different. The average cop probably won't be able to pick it but some can pretty accurately too. Plus the aforementioned smell and the hollow noise if you tap it.

In response to the afm bit - what? Step one: buy an adaptor for pod filter ($15 at superrepcoautocheapbarn). Step two: remove airbox and keep all your screws. Step three: attach adaptor to AFM. Step four: attach pod filter to adaptor, use good clamps, don't over tighten. Expected time to complete: 15 mins plus half an hour to go to your local superrepcoautocheapbarn™. Not hard at all. No need to lose the AFM and truth be told your not going to gain anything from ditching it anyway. Plus you save money on tuning. Now ignoring all the pointless bagging of the new skyline owner: just drive sensibly okay? I sold my first R33 turbo to a kid on his L's (his first car) and wrapped it around a power pole a week later - country road, sharpish corner, too much throttle, oversteer, over correction, crash. His mate in the car had a broken leg but otherwise no injuries - could easily have killed them both. In retrospect I shouldn't have sold it to him. In response to the atmosphere here: *sigh* This is something that I'm sure a certain Mr.Eps pointed out a while back. As the purchase price of skylines drop we will be getting new breeds of people buying skylines - the young, the cheapskates, the inexperienced, the bogans, the boostcruisers (had to be said ) and various others. Its slowly but surely turning me off buying a skyline again. I might just stay with the euros - something that has been historically bogan proof - just to avoid being tarnished by the bogan twat brush. Public perception of skyline owners is only set to get lower and lower...

My God. That is THE nicest skyline I have seen in a long, long, long time. I nearly want bigger pics for desktop backgrounds. Its more than immaculate. Whoever ends up with this is one lucky son of a bitch.

Okay many changes coming this way shortly. Have committed to a particular engine build and very much intend to see it through, this means I give up on another R33 or the 911until this build is finished. Heres a sample pic of the (not mine) finished product: Parts List: - Reconditioned 2.5 Alfa V6 heads, new valves, springs, retainers. - 164S Cams. - Balanced crank - THS Forged Conrods. - Venolia 8.5:1 Forged Pistons. - Greg Gordon Eaton MP62 Supercharger Kit. - FMIC behind grill painted black. - Replaced water pump. - replaced oil pump. - Cleaned inside/out, acid dipped, high temp coated stock headers. - 440cc Injectors (not sure which brand, still deciding on the ECU). - New engine mounts and rubbers. - Twin side pipes. - Top gun leads. - New Dissy. - Bosch sport coil. - ECU unknown, still making a choice - probably go with Wolf V500. - Still sorting fuel system, trying to keep it in tank with a modified stock fuel tank Possible power output unknown, aiming for 300 HP but the real goal is the sound of a supercharged 2.5 litre Italian V6 on side pipes .

Really? How immature. Just ignoring most of what your saying there and straight to the point: if your "mate" can engineer it, why not get it engineered from the start?Now including the rest of what you said: the law is that they can defect your car. It is not "pushing you around". Its the law, and it means conforming to manufacturer specifications and a variety of other requirements. I know of at least three people defected because the traffic patrol counted the wheel studs - didn't even need to pop the bonnet. Save a lot of pain and get it engineered from the start - all of my cars are. So in summary I think you will make approximately 140 - 150 rwkW on a good day and and with an optimistic dyno with a lot of money spent on unnecessary things. I'm not trying to stop you or discourage you from going N/A I'm just saying think about it a bit more. If in doubt talk to skit R31 - I love what he has done with his RB30DE.