MattyR32

i did this recently, i had a bosch 040 in tank still running off the standard loom and i checked the voltage going to the pump and it was only 10.5v after runnin power from the battery to the pump just the noise increase told me it was working 1 hell of a lot better fuel presure shot up by about 10 psi at the regulator i recomend this to anyone with a aftermarket fuel pump sorry R 2 THE J but i think your wiring diagram is confusing....

Autobarn are having their first sound off for the year on friday the 7th may. There are going to be reps on hand from all major brands with their demo vehicles, a huge car audio sale with up to 70% off and heaps of trophies and giveaways. These guys always put on a good show when they hold their sound off events so make sure you dont miss out. Pencil it into your diary and I hope to see you all there. Details are as follows; Date: Friday 7th May 2010 Time: 6.30pm on Location: Autobarn Bundall, 74 Upton st, Bundall, Gold Coast Cost: $15 entry per vehicle, spectators free! Classes: Novice and Pro as follows; Novice = up to 1500wrms, Pro = 1501 wrms & over and known regular competitors in the industry Novice Class A: 3 x 8", 2 x 10" or 1 x 12" Novice Class B: 3 x 10", 2 x 12" or 1 x 15" Novice Class C: 3 x 12", 2 x 15" or 1 x 18" Pro Class 1: 3 x 8", 2 x 10" or 1 x 12" Pro Class 2: 3 x 10", 2 x 12" or 1 x 15" Pro Class 3: 3 x 12". 2 x 15" or 1 x 18" Open Class: Walled Cars, Rep Cars, Demo Cars, Shop Cars

maybe as far as the hicas solenoid i dunno about removing the veins its a bit of a waist of time.

Will add photos soon

SKYLINE R32 GTS-T HYDRAULIC HICAS REMOVAL NEEDED: HICAS lockout kit (Whiteline HICAS lockout kit includes bypass fitting Part# KSR204) 1L powersteering fluid TOOLS: 2x big shifter's for tie rods or 30mm open ender 10, 12, 17, 21mm open ended spanner 14, 19, 21 and 24mm sockets. MOUNTING HICAS LOCK BAR: 1. Take the tie rod boots off both sides of the hicas rack (they will be secured by wire ties) 2. with your shifter's or (or 30mm open ender) place one on each end and crack the ends only one will open (the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn) 3. Start undoing the one that came loose, keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. 4. You will now see a little stub, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it. you can now undo the other tie rod. 5. Now that both ends are cracked, undo the rack from the car, there are two 19mm bolts and two 10mm bolts that hold both the hicas rack and the hydraulic lines to the car. 6. once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little it makes getting the tie rods out easier. now just unscrew the tie rods. 7. Now get your lock bar and screw the tie rods into this while it is off the car (it is recommended that you use some thread locker). 8. when both rods are all the way in, mount it back onto the subframe with the 19mm bolts and then tighten the tie rods 9. finally slide the tie rod boots back over (it is a good idea to apply a small amount of grease to the ball joints on the tie rod end before hand) use wire/cable ties to re-secure the boots. (NOTE) You will need a wheel alignment ASAP BYPASSING HYDRAULIC LINES: 1. You will now have the hicas rack hanging by two hydraulic lines disconnect these using a 13mm open ended spanner. 2. the whiteline kit comes with a small U shaped pipe screw this on to the lines you just disconnected. 3. Now re-attach the lines back to the subframe 4. Start the car and check for any leaks tighten if required and your all done (NOTE) Once all steps are complete and wheels are fully aligned take it slow till you have the feel of the car and its new steering characteristics

intrested in turbo send me a msg (0405 394 269)

ill take that turbo off your hands pm me

very interested, so tidy ill pm you