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Jap4life

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Auckland, NZ

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  • Car(s)
    93 GTST R32
  • Real Name
    Eddy

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  1. Maybe one of your leads is cutting out or maybe coming off and dropping a cylinder. Or might be your ignitor or similar. Error code check should clear that up though.
  2. From Auckland. I sit in a GTS4 R32. Hopefully to be driving it very soon!
  3. please pm, as most of yall are in AUS. Im located in South Auckland for the NZers.
  4. As per title. Looking for the center bearing bracket. More specifically, just the bottom plate. Very hard to find GTS4/GTR parts in NZ Any help appreciated Thanks Eddy
  5. Ok got it now, M means metric, 10 means 10mm thread diameter and standard metric fine pitch is the thread pitch.
  6. Everything is measured up but just wondering what the above means exactly And how thick do you think the washers should be? In the workshop manual it looks like the half shaft bolts have washers. I also need the nuts and bolts for the 4WD shaft and Ill go the same route for them too but i need nuts too Thanks
  7. Thanks bro will give that a go! Rung up Nissan and in true nz style the guy told me he'd ring me back as soon as possible aka yeah yeah i might ring you back if i feel like it. Hahaha Just a question, do i need to request a certain strength of the bolts or anything?
  8. Well found they are the same bolts as the ones from the front of the diff to the driveshaft and im hoping those are more generic? I realise I need to find something HT and i was assuming anything from the drivetrain would be strong enough?
  9. Oh yeah it is a bolt, hadn't noticed till now. Thanks man. Maybe will be able to find some thing easier now.
  10. oh ok yeah Im thinking of the half shafts to drive shaft nuts and bolts. I went to Nissan and they told me it would be worth going to Nisbits which stock the most Nissan secondhand parts in nz, but Nisbits are useless as hell and they didnt help me at all. The guy i bought the car off had bought a whole lot of bolts from the local hardware store but luckily he didnt get around to reinstalling the diff or im thinking it would have ended in chaos. Im thinking about getting a few bolts and checking them for fitment and if they aren't perfect then I will have to explore other options. Its just the nuts and bolts that i need. Here is a picture. I checked my GTR manual and it seems even that has a different pattern. What will have the same pattern as my car?
  11. Hey there, I have a 1992 GTS4 but i am missing all the bolts for the diff to the half shafts. Finding parts for GTS4s where I am is hard and I havnt found anything with same bolt pattern. I was wondering whether the bolts from any viscous LSD to half shafts from Laurel, Cefiro or GTST or whatever, will fit fine even if the bolt pattern is different? Obviously I will need more of them but will they bolt in fine. Im hoping they will because it will make life easier for me Thanks
  12. Definitely have pressure in the fuel lines. We listened to the injectors and we could hear them ticking. We are going to try another CAS tomorrow but have inspected it already and seems ok. Starting to think maybe something with the fuel system isn't right. Basically just turns and turns till the cows come home and nothing exciting happens
  13. Trying to get my RB20det gtst4 r32 to start this morning. I have never got it running since I bought it. There is supposed to be nothing wrong with it as far as I know although, we found there was no spark. So first we replaced the ignitor and that seems to have fixed our spark problem but car will still not start. The car is not firing AT ALL. Definitely getting fuel, we saw it squirt out the chassis rail lines. Ecu is spitting code 13 and 43. Just don't know where to go from here. We will reset the ecu and see what happens Please help
  14. I vote for jacking up sump or even the front pulleys, but use wood so you dont damage anything. once you have the box on and you cant get it close enough at the top to get those stupid top bolts in you can place some wood or a stand under the front of the engine and jack up the back of the gearbox so they oppose each other and then you can chuck the bottom bolts in and the the top will close up by itself under the strain This saved me a lot of time when putting in the gearbox by myself (no friends)
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