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About JGTC

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    Rank: RB25DET

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    Sydney, NSW

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  1. I have both cars in the family, the R34 25GT we've had since 2009 (60,000kms), now has 130,000kms, besides O2 sensors and coilpacks we have not had to replace anything other than general servicing. It's true the DC2R is much more of a sports car (1000kgs, Recaros, 8400rpm redline, much more body bracing), but being a thoroughbred it will need more maintenance as they are 15yo+ cars. Our one has cost a small fortune to keep going (suspension, bushes/arms/mounts, oil leaks, electrics etc.) I dare say it'd be harder to find a DC2R in good nick than a N/A R34 these days, and for a cruiser (what you do the most of on your Ps) the 34 is a nicer/cooler car.
  2. With my R34 i ended up with MCA Reds with 12kg/5kg springs - dampers were valved for tarmac rally/hillclimb rather than circuit/track Came from M-Spec stock suspension which was surprisingly jarring on sydney roads, the MCAs were an improvement in ride-quality both when driving quickly and at the speed limit. I went with MCA as they had done speciifc model testing on the R34, where i believe shockworks' test car was a R32 GTR. Another option to consider is PSS9 bilsteins which are a good choice off the shelf, and can be bought and serviced in Sydney by Heasmans Some info might be useful from my thread.
  3. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4976384
  4. Congrats mate, a lot of time and coin leading up to now.
  5. Bigger hi-volume pump should be matched with a larger capacity sump if budget allows, a tomei/nitto pump will be capable of higher rpm and thus will be able to move a higher volume of oil. Larger returns and crankcase venting also good 'while you're here' mods. Some good info here; https://www.facebook.com/pg/Tarmac-Solutions-Pty-Ltd-189006661230825/photos/?tab=album&album_id=399827453482077
  6. Engine bay work is night and day compared to when you got it, looks superbly tidy.
  7. As a base you can take the price of a clean stock example, and add half of the total cost of modification (labour and parts).
  8. Hi Marc, could you change mine to JGTC please? Thanks in advance.
  9. Nice results Dan, nice to get some closure on that part of the build.
  10. This would have been my pick if i had the guts to sell my 34R and commit to more track time Built motor, 5spd, front & rear diffs, mca golds, cage, can be registered. http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/id/18669/latest/1 https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4636253?_ga=2.78987730.710373335.1498453303-698391425.1478472892
  11. Do you have an auction sheet as well as the export certificate?
  12. This is a great resource to see a list of builds and power results.
  13. Ah right, in the last few months there has been a handful of really well done top-to-bottom done cars go in the high 30s to 40K mark (read: extended sump, oil control, forged bottom end, long nose crank etc.) Those to me would be the best 'value' BNR32s to go for if you can extend your budget a little bit more. Something like;
  14. Not cheap, but relatively good value with the parts (headwork, turbos, VCAM) and maintenance carried out. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4800514?_ga=2.122317899.1989371707.1497430103-1902255913.1481940310
  15. If going with a place like racepace, who have a dyno, you can request that they perform a 'check up power run' on the dyno, this will uncover more issues than a standard roadtest, this can uncover missfires, boost/vaccum leaks, noises, AFM and injector issues. Being able to hit full boost safely will give you a much better indication of the condition of the car rather than a modest test drive. Wheel alignment is also a great way to check for correct chassis geometry. for the extra $100 worth it in my opinion.