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About JGTC

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    Rank: RB25DET

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    Sydney, NSW

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  1. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4976384
  2. Congrats mate, a lot of time and coin leading up to now.
  3. Bigger hi-volume pump should be matched with a larger capacity sump if budget allows, a tomei/nitto pump will be capable of higher rpm and thus will be able to move a higher volume of oil. Larger returns and crankcase venting also good 'while you're here' mods. Some good info here; https://www.facebook.com/pg/Tarmac-Solutions-Pty-Ltd-189006661230825/photos/?tab=album&album_id=399827453482077
  4. Engine bay work is night and day compared to when you got it, looks superbly tidy.
  5. As a base you can take the price of a clean stock example, and add half of the total cost of modification (labour and parts).
  6. Hi Marc, could you change mine to JGTC please? Thanks in advance.
  7. Nice results Dan, nice to get some closure on that part of the build.
  8. This would have been my pick if i had the guts to sell my 34R and commit to more track time Built motor, 5spd, front & rear diffs, mca golds, cage, can be registered. http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/id/18669/latest/1 https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4636253?_ga=2.78987730.710373335.1498453303-698391425.1478472892
  9. Do you have an auction sheet as well as the export certificate?
  10. This is a great resource to see a list of builds and power results.
  11. Ah right, in the last few months there has been a handful of really well done top-to-bottom done cars go in the high 30s to 40K mark (read: extended sump, oil control, forged bottom end, long nose crank etc.) Those to me would be the best 'value' BNR32s to go for if you can extend your budget a little bit more. Something like;
  12. Not cheap, but relatively good value with the parts (headwork, turbos, VCAM) and maintenance carried out. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4800514?_ga=2.122317899.1989371707.1497430103-1902255913.1481940310
  13. If going with a place like racepace, who have a dyno, you can request that they perform a 'check up power run' on the dyno, this will uncover more issues than a standard roadtest, this can uncover missfires, boost/vaccum leaks, noises, AFM and injector issues. Being able to hit full boost safely will give you a much better indication of the condition of the car rather than a modest test drive. Wheel alignment is also a great way to check for correct chassis geometry. for the extra $100 worth it in my opinion.
  14. Ring and speak to Sue, they have looked after my last 3-4 blueslips for imports, really reasonable. They have looked after me and my mates with similar mods. If it helps tell them Daniel with the Integra/AE86 told you to call. Team Wild Speed   Mechanic in Wetherill Park, New South Wales Address: 3/40 Newton Rd, Wetherill Park NSW 2164 Phone: (02) 9757 3677
  15. You can also check the variance between cold engine dry compression and engine warm wet compression values to guage the health of the piston rings and valve train From another forum; a dry test is just how the engine runs and it will tell you only the compression. A wet test is done after with oil in the cylinders, in this "SECOND" test if the numbers go up you will know it is the rings and if the numbers stay the same all is well. IE dry test on cyl 2 was 30 lbs low and wet the reading was back up to par it is the rings. If the "SECOND" test was still at 30 lbs low it would be in the valve train (valve adjustment) or a sticky/leaky valve.