JGTC

SA based company Neat Gearboxes quote $3,400 for a refresh per their standard pricelist - http://www.neatgearboxes.com.au/ They post pretty regular content on getrag V160/161 6-speeds, you can see some of their works here - https://www.facebook.com/page/309050369209123/search/?q=v160

WIth twin turbos, the recipe came down to a; - higher lift cam on the exhaust side - opens up the flow from the head all the way through the turbos then exhaust. - equal length front pipe - the clashing of the pulses gave a distinct pitch vs non-equal length - exhaust steel type, mild/SS/titanium would also give a certain flavour. I changed the front pipe and cat-back from non-equal to equal-length, and SS to titanium, with barely any noticeable difference. For my application (twin -9 upgrade) the cams bought the noise to life. My set up retained a hi-flow cat, and a resonator in the cat-back (Amuse titan R1 extra) Getting some video done on my car in the coming days ill try remember to come back and post here.

Hey @Ben C34 was this directed at my method? Just would like to know how you mean as I am a mechanical numpty. Cheers,

I think best practice is pull up to a stop with foot on the brake, pull up the hand brake, release foot off the brake pedal, turn off the car, clutch in (or not, don't think it matters once car is off) put the gearbox in 1st or reverse depending on whether you're facing up/down. I do this in autos too, foot brake, hand brake, release foot brake, put lever into P.

Not an expert, but recently went through the process with my R34, lowering anything more than the stock height will push the rear camber out negatively, my coils were barely lower than stock and i had -3deg which burns through tyres. I fitted adjustable rear camber arms to correct the camber back to -1 for street driving/tyre preservation Lowering the fronts also affects the geometry, a bandaid fix includes a roll center adjuster insert, some detailed explanation below, as well as info on the effects of lowering in general. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331892-roll-centre/

Ah ic right yep, thanks,

There will be a lot of cars hitting this stage after many good years on higher than stock boost. Rings/bearings with all new hoses and gaskets would be my vote, a new OEM oil pump will also go a long way, without needing to spend big dollars. Forgive me for asking, what would be the advantages of going new pistons, instead of a new set of OEM rings to suit the existing pistons? Especially at a manageable power level?

Most builds here either use the ATI (US made) or Ross (AU made) damper, at your power level, their base models have improved over the years and are rated to around 750hp while keeping all other OEM pulleys in standard positions. Being in the US, the ATI damper would make more sense as they can be easily rebuilt locally with local parts. We have the same advantage with Ross balancers here.

Nice! Welcome, great to see new members with new cars still posting here. Looks like nice stock car that you won't be scared of putting kms on! Who did you go through in WA, prestige? Did you have a good experience bringing it in? Leather seats look like a nicely done job too. Any goals for the car short/long term?

@fatz is the man to talk to, see some of his project car threads as he works through what works and doesn't work without spending the earth and spending on things not required at certain power levels. 2 of his build threads to sift through; Some other easy-to-understand resources on RB26 rebuilds. Rebuild basics https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=189006661230825&set=a.418233531641469 Extended sump walkthrough https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=189006661230825&set=a.399827453482077 Crankcase ventilation https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=189006661230825&set=a.42413259438489

Everyone's worst nightmare with claying! Very nice work on the paint, correction + ceramic can really bring the paint back to life.

I have my car serviced, troubleshooted and tuned at MRC in Seven Hills, Mark is a really good operator, where abouts in Sydney are you based?

Their suspension components are predominately all rose jointed/pillow ball which are great for directness and feel on track, but can add more harshness and vibration on the street as well as be more prone to wear so will need to be inspected more regularly on a street car, although they have dust boots to shield them from contamination. If you want components with standard pressed rubber bushings, hardrace have options which will give you closer to OEM longevity and compliance, while being able to be dialed in for performance. I have GK tech rear camber arms, rear sub-frame collars and front roll center adjusters on my R34 which only does about 5-6000ks a year, they make quality parts and i wanted to support Australian owned and made, you just have to know the differences and decide what's best for you.

Thanks a heap that takes so much mystery out of it, much appreciated. Definitely not a usage case you would assume could cause starvation.

Awesome to see these build threads still starting. Still good timing on the buy i'd say good to seem them enjoyed and worked on.