Mr.Massive

Hey guys, Just getting annoyed as my battery terminals are constantly getting corroded. Every four months or so the car will not start up unless I file them. I know this may be due to the alternator giving to much charge, I did keep the same alternator from the de motor but this shouldn't be a problem. Anyone know any tricks to stop this from happening? Thanks.

Hey guys, I have just put in a nistuned z32 ecu in my AWD R33 GTS4 and am experiencing some troubles. My AWD system is randomly working. The AWD light normally is off on start up and after a short drive comes on. I brought it into the tuner who installed this setup and was told that the Z32 ecu was not giving a tps signal to the attessa system. This was a surprise as I used a normal gtst ecu before the tune and the attessa system was working. Where can this tps signal be bridged so it is active? Tonight I took the car for a drive and the AWD light did not come on and the cars driveline was working fine. Confused? Same here. I am starting to lose faith in my tuner as I believe he has steered me in the wrong direction. I am also experiencing a high/unstable idle when randomly stopped even when the car is warm. The tuner believes this is due to z32 ecu characteristics. True? Due to this problem I am also wondering if I should drop my front shaft as I am afraid of clutches being damaged? Thanks, Stefan

Have you/they checked for error codes?

Radiator sold.

B-ump

R33 S2 Manual ECU with brackets - $120

Don't blame me if im wrong but just speculating Wind up boost + stock ecu = miss This is due to = air fuel ratio for stock ecu (7 psi or whatever), being different to 11psi needs. Best place to go is a tuner. Yellow jackets are know for being not very efficient but I place my money on the ecu. Have you tried resetting the ecu?

Nistune fixed all of my car problems apart from my driver side window going up to high

They finally worked it out and have put in a z32 ecu after downloading a new image. Just got it done yesterday and have noticed my slip light randomly stays on until I turn the car off. I haven't tested it if its running RWD as do not want to do any harm. This seems to be a common problem with some GTRs however I know this is caused by nistune or the tuner themselves. Anyone got any clues? Apart from this light coming on every now and then my car is running better than I ever expected, love Nistune .

+1

Still for sale.

Stock cold pipe sold

Bump

When your stock clutch starts slipping, other than that I would'nt worry about it.

Hey guys, I have got a R33 GTS4 with an rb25det. Took the car down to a tuner today only to call me back up saying he cannot place the Z32 nistuned ecu in it due to it being AWD. How can I get past this as I really don't want to give up my midrange power by losing my VCT?

Yes, The Stock R33 N/a extractors. PM sent.

Also S1 Stagea Front diff - $120

S1 Stagea Front diff - $120

Got some stuff taking up space so here it is: R33 GTS4 Rb25DE 1997 AWD close to bare engine. Stopped at 72,567 K. Comes without sump. In perfect condition, never had a problem with it just undergone an engine conversion.$ 700 ONO S1 R33 Wiring loom uncut and in perfect condition –$ 200 R33 Coil loom -$ 40 Full R33 N/A Exhaust with twin tip Supercat muffler. I have a video of what it did sound like if that helps. Also willing to separate just give me an offer. R33 Gutted Cat – $40 R33 NA Fuel Pump – $50 R33 Oil Pressure sensor- clip is a bit mangled but still plugs in and holds –$10 Front diff cover – $25 Awd Sump trays- $40 Rb25 radiator on Ebay starting bid at $80 Stock Cold Pipe with nipple – $25 R33 Na intake - $30 R33 G6 ECU - $60 Also got a box of hoses from a rb25 that I have no use for, just let me know what you want. Pm me for pictures.

Got some stuff taking up space so here it is: R33 GTS4 Rb25DE 1997 AWD close to bare engine. Stopped at 72,567 K. Comes without sump. In perfect condition, never had a problem with it just undergone an engine conversion.$ 700 ONO S1 R33 Wiring loom uncut and in perfect condition –$ 200 R33 Coil loom -$ 40 Full R33 N/A Exhaust with twin tip Supercat muffler. I have a video of what it did sound like if that helps. Also willing to separate just give me an offer. R33 Gutted Cat – $40 R33 NA Fuel Pump – $50 R33 Oil Pressure sensor- clip is a bit mangled but still plugs in and holds –$10 Front diff cover – $25 Awd Sump trays- $40 Rb25 radiator on Ebay starting bid at $80 Stock Cold Pipe with nipple – $25 R33 Na intake - $30 R33 G6 ECU - $60 Also got a box of hoses from a rb25 that I have no use for, just let me know what you want.

Is your return modified? If so it might be to big. Might be a leak or you need a tune. Im guessing you have changed your ECU and tuned it?

nuetral = neutral, sorry

Take it for a drive can't tell when reving in nuetral. Since its stock im guessing you are using the stock vacume line at the top of the head facing the heater hoses that go through your firewall, if so thats fine.

Must be a typo, no mention of rb25’s at all? Yet when a gtst blows a tire on the side of the road and a bus sideswipes it its front page material. I am with this law to lower death tolls but economically speaking this is a blow straight to the face of the car market. The law comes in on September the 4th on the 3rd I’m putting up concrete barriers at the front of my house, there are going to be a lot of pissed off drivers that I don’t want to be near.

What sounds do you hear when trying to start it?