Jet 20

Kyle from 6boost recommended those guys to me, so they must be pretty good at what they do. havn't had anything done by them yet tho.

are the cams the same?? why not just get another rb25det?? they are cheap.

the -11 on the end means 1.1mm gap. pretty sure anyway.

gday, i tried searching but was unlucky. i had the crank angle sensor off my rb20det the other day, now i'm not sure if it went back in the exact same spot. i need to know how to check the timing with a light as i have only ever done it picking up a signal from the spark plug lead. never done it with coil over setup.. any help would be good. thanks Josh.

bump.

Hey all, My wife's Corolla is for sale. 2002 model, 17" wheels, lowered on king springs, tinted windows, jvc head unit. very clean reliable little car. 87,000 km. just serviced, brand new front brake pads. http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/TOYOTA....aspx?State=VIC

exhaust restrictions?? Are you running a cat converter??

yes pre lube the turbo before you put the oil feed line on. they dont need running in. just make sure there is no bungs in the oil drain or feed before you connect it.

Gday, just wondering if there is a setting in a microtech lt12s ecu to adjust what injector impedence you have?? i have an rb20det silver top and i want to upgrade the fuel system and im just wondering if i need to worry about resistor packs or not. thanks.

An 044 is an external pump mate.

Does anyone know if you can run low impedence injectors in an rb20det silver top with a microtech lt12s ecu without doing the resister pack?? is there a function in the computer to set low or high impedence???

i would definently just get warranty on it then. because i cannot see why the turbo would crack like that if it was bolted up correctly only using one gasket.

just get the turbo high flowed and use a floating bush bearing insteed of ball bearing. then dont use the water lines.

0w 30 seems very very light weight to me, im running an rb20det also and im using a 20w 40 penrite oil in mine. the motor has done 95,000 km and has no oil smoke problems at all. that oil weight i believe is more for brand new engines, not 20 year old engines.

how did you actually crack it???

yeah good job. just make sure you replace all of them. i have seen people only remove the broken ones then put the manifold back on only to break more when doing it up. cheers

nissan wouldn't use the bush type bearing if it was no good. the spigot bearing is not only there to hold the input shaft straight, it has to also support the weight of the clutch friction plates when the clutch is engaged. It also keeps the plates centred in the clutch.

a turbo should not crack like that just from doing it up, no matter how tight you do it. if you were going to get it welded up it will probably have to be done by someone in the know, as i'm pretty sure the turbine housing will have to be ground out where the crack is, then heated slowly up over 200 degrees c, welded then cooled down slowly to prevent it from cracking again right next to where it is welded. special cast welding rods will have to be used also.

Mine has the same problem, only happens when just opening the throttle off idle or 0%. I'm running a microtech ecu with no afm. the cause of mine is the throttle position sensor, i can watch it on the laptop and when the throttle is closed the throttle percentage creeps all over the place until i touch the throttle. like 3lit3 32 says, "dead spot in the tps" but at $208 i have not ordered a new one yet.

definently get it checked out. it should not rub on the comp cover. better to know it is right rather than hope it is right.

with my rb20det when cold it idles at about 55 psi and when cold driving sits at about 75 to 80 psi. when hot it idles at 900rpm and 25 psi and drives at about 55 psi. thats with penrite sin 40 (i think thats what its called)

Use the biggest size easy out you can fit without drilling into the thread of the head, if you know what i meen?? try keep the drill hole as close to the centre of the broken stud as possible. also replace ALL the exhaust studs and use plenty of anti seize on the threads to help removal next time.

is the standard guage measured in PSI or BAR??

definently keep the cast one on, i made the mistake of the "cheap Manifold", it came from the states so i thought it would be ok. It must have came from china before it went to america. now i'm putting the standard one back on cos the stainless has cracks all thru it. Not cool.

Good job, What was the total cost for the setup??