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should have result of this next week. 83/74 1,05 RB26 86,5 , Street head port 250 9,15mm 3.5 inch wastegate atmo 94 octane

bought the gktech myself, thought it was an improvement over the stock one since mine was also eating the shroud. I do more traffic than circuit, maybe i made a mistake lol

at 4k $ the v-cam are far from ''small simple cams '' IMO

Well considering the stock rail is 10.5mm and aftermarket are 10.9... 11mm i would suspect they would work. Do you know if jdm rail run an6 or an8 ? And how quick can you ship me this adaptor to canada ?

It seems like the nismo FPR can do the job.. just suck that all 11mm aftermarket rail wont accept an oem setup fpr. Not sure the external FPR would provide me better performance over the simple nismo.

Yes there are the id1000cc 11mm made for bnr32 that id sell

They were 700cc sard. maybe they were, in fact, not up to task. It was a BNR32 rail. Mechanic said it didn't fit. over-bored as he said it was leaking after the mod. So now, we're back to square one. Either I buy my friend's BNR34 rail and bring it to a machine shop ( I say ppl who couldn't make the ID1000 11mm fit and had to drill and some say that with lots of lube/pressure it fitted..) or I buy HKS rail + adaptor + FPR + hose

I won't, but I know the tuner had to adjust pressure with my gt2860's old setup. If it's needed, I will get the big package, but i want to avoid bling factor. I'm aiming good HP, but I don't really plan on trashing the car so I thought the Nismo would be fine, but then I had second thought and i need to decide on my fuel setup ASAP since car should be done within a week

Not looking for OEM FPR Either I have another OEM rail drilled to 10.9mm and my Nismo ajustable FPR or I go HKS rail + Weldon FPR. Do you think one would offer a better tune/fuel economy ?

never seen an adaptor like that, so i suppose this is what i need lol or maybe i would be better off with an external FPR.. how much this adaptor cost ? edit: found this.. radiumauto. seems like they are the only one making an adaptor for aftermarket rail to bolt-on stock/Nismo FPR https://www.radiumauto.com/FPR-Adapter-for-Nissan-P602.aspx

Got myself a set of ID1000, mechanic tried to drill my OEM rail, ended up leaking.. so I'm back to square one. I already have a Nismo Type-A regulator so I would prefer to keep the single entry/nismo FPR and just get the cheapest 11mm fuel rail. Which one would it be ? or it doesn't even exist ( they are all dual entry) ? I'm not looking for fancy fuel setup with AN hose or mega 2000cc or E85 setup, so i reckon a simple fuel rail design would work as long as it's not a china knock-off with poor sealing thread than these are pointless.

thanks! we ordered the std one.

anyone know ? seems like its oem 20mm., but would like to confirm.

Looked at this pdf from nismo ; http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/clutch/pdf/clutch04.pdf Only for the SR, they recommance swapping the sleeve for their model. For the other model, nismo say ; Models other than above: Replace the release bearing to the included one according to the removed bearing. I had a OS giken TS3B before so I doubt the same sleeve will work with that twin plate clutch. So which one should I order ? I found a website that gave the follow information ; Bearing Sleeve- 30501-S0200 (18mm) factory clutch ( i thought it was 20mm.. no ??) Bearing sleeve:30501-S0160 / 30501-N1601 (14mm for twin / trip disc) I'm suprise to note that both twin and triple would use the same 14mm sleeve.. PLEASE SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS

we got it working. I'm sorry if it sounded weird.. I'm also not a huge fan when the mechanic ask me for help fitting something.. I mean, I'm not the expert.. oh well. its now working. Seems like he didn't grind enough material the first time.

what confuse him is that it appears the diff is not ''grinding/touching'' any of my housing ( like if my housing already had the material grinding before..) so he was like '' cool, bolt-on affair! '' but then when we started turning it, it would turn 3/4 and then jam.

My mechanic is having trouble figuring out where to trim the diff. The problem is the diff will fit int he case but it wont spin, it lock when the diff is in position so it must not make the good contact but he can't figure where it was to be removed because it's not knocking anywhere. I found these information on the net but it doesn't seems to help me much.. can someone shed some light please ? and/or translate the instruction from nismo in japanese ? I'm willing to pay for the information, we really need to get that pan installed so we can proceed with the rebuild. Thanks ! http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=6675

whats the spec on those unigroup cam by curiosity ?

i did email Rips about the issue, its a bit deeper but its more about wide than deep. i emailed him asking if he maybe forgot or i should've asked him about a modified pick-up, i shall see, but in the event that i need one, i though i might as well ask on here where to get one lol

Hello guys, My mechanic installed a trust sump kit in the past and think that my RIPS sump extension should need one too ( even tho its made more wider than the trust which is deeper) So, do you think its needed on wider sump vs deeper sump and if so, where can I supply one ? can I buy just this part from trust ? thanks

thank you, i didn't knew how to translate the ratio into actual number. 400 rpm over is OKAY, not too bad.

Hello !! I have 2 small questions ; Just bought a brand new Nismo coppermix competition clutch PUSH. I'm looking at a reinforcement tranny and found a R33 box with OS giken gearset 5speed. It has the pull to push conversion. 1) Would it work with my PUSH nismo clutch ? or only os giken clutch work with that kit ? 2) I prefer a 3speed rather than the 5speed, but i have to ask, if in 5th gear, at 120 kmh, I'm about 3100rpm. How much RPM will i be with the os giken ? thanks !!

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/clutch/sctwin.html This lowers the overall pressure on individual splines. It reduces wear to the input shaft and prevents disengagement problems. Having a center hub also makes installation easier than for single clutches by eliminating the risk of damaging the splines or misaligning the 2 discs during clutch assembly just a better design overall than the os giken with a Damper vs their non damper clutch. As for the pump, i didn't use the right word, but the 3 piece rotor design should help with vibration and gear breaking, i was told.

kinda sad to hear all these story... knowing that in fact it could've of worked but its not... Anyways... i would've liked the idea of running a tomei pump because they seems to act a bit as a damper .. for the same reason i bought the coppermix clutch and their dampening effect, but oh well gotta move on. reimax gear ordered. I don't want to start a fight with the machinist either. what is done is done..

it was actually a crank collar bought on ebay ( I believe or was it on sau) 4 years ago from australia.. it was a ''jun spec'' and worked with my N1 pump.