tridentt150v

You sure its not coolant? Looks like a heater hose has sprung a leak to me.

Yeah, I've done it for other builds where standard bolts and bolts with standard head markings were no longer available, but preparation is the key. Hours on the wire wheel cleaning the threads up, on the TIG welding up the corners, and on the Dremel sanding the flats etc before getting them plated. But it was worth it for that fresh/new standard look.

And considering that the original cap is plastic...……..well how much pressure do you think plastic would take in comparison to alloy? I've got a half piston type anodised blue one with Tomei on it, and its harder to undo than the factory one cos there is no grip on it. Sometimes I have to use a screwdriver in the fake gudgeon pin hole to start it. I always tell myself that one day I will dig the factory cap out and use it, but I never seem to....maybe its the bling?

Can do, be busy for a couple of days, then I'll take some pics.

If your old bolts are still serviceable - just surface rust etc - and except for critical once use only applications - I'd consider sending them off to a bright zinc finish plater like A+G Platers in Belmore?? [been a while since I used them] Sydney. Be much cheaper and easier.....plus if you combine that with buying some new ones then you will have a great supply to choose from for all your applications. Used to be able to get a bucket of bolts done for around $100 from memory.

+1 on resetting your plug gap to 0.8mm/0.032"......the ability of your spark plug providing any sort of meaningful spark at 0.02" would be a real struggle esp. at higher revs.

R32 GTR

They are supposed to have a formed thin rubber pad between the boot lid and the underside of the spoiler. But these perish or get damaged so people use silastic to either help hold them together or as a 'replacement'. This could be what has happened to yours?

RIP Ric

Have you done a wet compression test at all? I'd like to see a dry then a wet test and see if there is much difference. I realise that the focus is on the head and valves being the issue [and I tend to agree], but a wet comp test would confirm this.

I'm using an odyssey, no high draw though. I had to sand off the lip on one side of the plastic undertray and I welded up my own battery clamp setup. But its up to you and what you need. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ODYSSEY-PC925LMJT-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-DRY-CELL-BATTERY-AGM-RACE-DRAG-CAR-PC925L/222107912108?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Mine is a boot mount [like yours is?] so it will fit and work.

Are you talking about your BOV or your wastegate? I think you have the two confused. A std BOV will work for your setup just as easy as some aftermarket setup, just won't look as bling!!!

Yes, they will cut the old one off then install a new hose on with a new swage fitting. They do this in a tool made for the job, a hydraulic swaging press.