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tridentt150v

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tridentt150v last won the day on November 1 2019

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About tridentt150v

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Royston Vasey
  • Interests
    Triumph motorcycles and Skyline cars.

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  • Car(s)
    Sopwith Flying Squirel

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  1. What mods do you have....sounds like R&R to me. So too much boost for a standard ECU, so it tries to compensate to 'protect' the motor. To raise boost and power you need supporting mods, there is no such thing as cheap power unfortunately.
  2. I'd be removing the harmonic balancer and setting up a dial gauge and checking the crank snout for any run out. Then throw the HB away and put a new one on just for peace of mind...damn sight cheaper than using it and waiting for/watching the action.
  3. Put your lights on high beam for 5-10 minutes and see if they begin to dim. That will tell you if your battery is Ok or only holding a surface charge. I have found that AGM batteries esp. will show great volts and fool you into thinking they are OK but then they fail under load. Also, really, you need to check amps to the battery in series. IMO that's the only true way of knowing if your alternator is working properly.
  4. I've done that with a lump of 2" x 4' x 20" long, but the cross member still doesn't look happy, in fact I think the metal is now flatter across that point than it used to be, not quite a dent, but would end up one with repeated use I think? So I stopped using it, which is a pain cos the best way to get my Skyline on the ramps was to jack the car up then push the ramps under the front wheels. So now I have to do it one side at a time, and the car sits there 'twisting' and rocking until I get both ramps under the front wheels. I've used the tow points, and they are strong enough, but there is a stability problem. I might end up making up a dedicated bracket that sits on the trolley jack and lets me use the tow points with more confidence? One day..... Alternative is to make up longer ramp 'planks' so I don't scrape my front bar.
  5. My front two bolts fell out one hot day and I was 100km from home - it was probably the one area I never checked or redid beforehand during my ownership - it was a Sunday arvo so the only thing open was Bunnings....I drove it approx. 5 km there and put some new builders nuts and bolts on without a gasket as a temporary fix to get me home. That drive was bloody terrible, loud, hot, conspicuous and felt like I was gunna get defected at any minute. I hated it. So don't, ok, just don't.
  6. After +20 years the petticoat will be a little frayed around the edges.....its not a new vehicle.
  7. I'd remove all rust you can get to and use a rust convertor first, paint it on and leave it to do its work. It might take several applications and a few days to dry etc, but they do work.
  8. As for ring gaps [we are talking compression rings]...generally err on the large side, a slightly larger gap has almost no effect on performance or the motor. Clocking your rings helps . Too small and you risk scoring the bore due to rings expanding as they heat up then the ends butting together, finding no room, still expanding, so bulging out into the cylinder wall.
  9. Gtst so a 25, get over 500km to a tank of 98. Get over 1,000km to 2.5 litres of water meth. Its set so that it only injects when you are boosting. So cruising at 100km/h you aren't really using any. I have no failsafes, don't really need them. My motor will show high knock levels if the WMI setup stops working. But I've not had that happen, plus I set my hand controller up to read knock levels with peak hold and I watch it just like a speedo or any other gauge...so I'd know if it stopped working. But again, its only injecting when I'm boosting. From memory I've set mine up to start at 60% IDC and all in by 80% AND 8psi and all in by 14psi. But I'd have to check those figures if you really wanted them. If I had a Haltech or Link I could maybe set up failsafes, but I have always had a PFC and never really seen the need to change it.
  10. CYL 1: 130 CYL 2: 90 CYL 3: 130 CYL 4: 80 CYL 5: 90 CYL 6: 95 CYL1: 90 CYL2: 85 CLY3: 90 CYL4: 90 CYL5: 100 CYL6: 100 CYL1: 145 CYL2: 115 CYL3: 120 CYL4: 125 CYL5: 130 CYL6: 142.5 CYL1: 140 CYL2: 110 CYL3: 115 CYL4: 120 CYL5: 120 CYL6: 130 You would expect to see consistency between tests. The overall results don't have enough of this IMO. You are creating your own concerns. Until you get this consistency, you don't know what your motor is like and are probably worrying over nothing..
  11. Hardened pennyweight/guard washers and grease....wipe away the excess after you are done.
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