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Everything posted by tridentt150v

  1. Who woulda thought??? In the '80's Molly Meldrum used to wax on lyrically about him......I thought he was the biggest over-hyped non talented uninspired 'next greatest' ever. Thought he and Molly must have been in a relationship or something? But now, after 30+ years, he has finally found some of that much pushed and talked about talent......and its pretty impressive, but his 11 year old daughter is even more so:
  2. Does it go away when the motor is warm? If it sounds like its under the timing cover, it could be a lazy lifter. Edit: Just listened and doesn't sound like one, but always hard to tell unless your right there. Try removing your front belts and trying for a few seconds, eliminate alternator, water pump power steering noises etc
  3. 16 years ago and from Russia with Love...good luck with that.
  4. No, the water pump is a 'sealed' unit, sealed bearings etc. You don't service it, you replace it when it starts to leak or gets noisy. And if you decide its time to replace it then - if your smart - you will buy a kit that includes idler pulley and timing belt etc etc. There are tutorials in the Tut section detailing the job. And a hot tip, buy a genuine Nissan water pump, they last longer. The chinese/brazilian versions are cheaper but lucky to last 12 months. Also try to get a proper RB25/26 un it rather than the RB30 version, both will fit but the dirty 30 version takes one less mounting bolt....and this is where your water pump will leak first.
  5. Those insets have a push in clips on the back of them [if they are standard]. Yours should have slots for the clips to sit in. Then your car has to have the correct holes for the clips to line up with. More detail would be handy.
  6. I assume you have hit it with some penetrating spray? Do that and leave it overnight to wick in....then use a freeze spray on it. Also try tightening it a small amount before backing out? Also if you don't want to use a blow torch....try boiling the jug then slowly pouring boiled water over it, do it a couple of times if needed.
  7. One thing I didn't point out......if cylinder No. 6 runs lean because its getting more air then a properly running WMI system is a great advantage in helping with it, because any cylinder that gets more air.....also gets more WM. Because atomised spray from the injector jet into the air stream becomes a direct ratio of air volume. And visa versa, any cylinders that get less air - and so run richer - will get less WM. So WM 'smooths out [note I didn't say evens out]' small intake differences. So two birds, one stone!!!
  8. But again...if you have liquid water or over injection, you are doing something wrong. We are not talking water....we are talking ultra fine mist. And your injector jet plus the pressure that the WM is under mists/vapourises the mixture, no other energy - given that some engine heat after injection probably doesn't hurt either. Running No.6 leanest is as much a fuel problem as any air distribution issue. For air it would need to get more air for lean, not less. On an RB25 plenum I can't see that happening to the same extent. I can understand your arguments, but its just not happening in practice. BTW that link really doesn't have the data you would need to support your statements. Pity I was looking for a good read.
  9. I'd question this in an FI setup. You are basically saying that the some cylinders get more air - based on plenum type. I'd like to see the real life measurements that back this statement up. Can it even be measured? Do you have any? I'd be interested, make for an interesting read.
  10. Makes you wonder how it happened [well makes me wonder anyway]. I'd be digging deeper.
  11. Plus you are saying that there is 'residual' water in your engine....wrong. WMI isn't used from 0 to 100, you use a management system and only begin injection at a determined threshold. For me [and from memory] it starts at 8psi then ramps up until it is all in by 14psi......and/or say 50% IDC and all in by say 80% IDC. So when you are on a trip and you boost, injection begins. But when you are cruising up your street and parking in your garage etc there is no WMI injected because you are driving well below [or should be] your thresholds. This means you burn off any residual [if you have any] and also allows the motor time to 'dry out'. BTW if you are getting residual at all, then you haven't set the system up properly - you are over injecting. ie an injector nozzle that is too big for the engine, or thresholds that are way too low to be effective. I have never had milky oil, my spark plugs aren't rusty wrecks, my bore and valve heads [when using my endoscope on the phone] are clean. I've been using a 50/50 mix for probably 10 years now...all the bad things should have happened by now if you believe the doomsayers. But nothing. And you don't really need separate injectors etc, just one - KISS. The swirl of the air inducted through the inlet is all you need for an even distribution if you position your nozzle correctly. Maybe for a drag or time attack etc you will see minute gains, but for the street...forget it. I have no access to E85, hence the WMI. And the final word...my WMI system works, it lowers temps, allowing more of everything.
  12. Not sure if its the same for a 20, but on a 25 its here:
  13. Bet there is a little man using a big hammer in there...has to be.
  14. https://proefi.com/product/pro-128-ecu-system/ Looks OK sex specs wise....the real trick is finding somebody that can tune it. Many can try, but only a few will get there!
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