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Everything posted by tridentt150v

  1. No but will watch now lol....as they say...there is one born every minute!!!! PS if it sells I might have to get into the turbo business good money for old rope IMO.
  2. Was going to say it looks like my '98, so the last of the R33's, but the timing cover behind the CAS is different and much bulkier. It has a larger flange and that webbing that mine doesn't have. Looks like its lost some coolant more than once as well - all that white dust.
  3. Yep. one is for the toes on a humans foot, and the other one is for a camel.
  4. I made up and polished a s/s one prank. I am pretty busy right now but will see if I have a photo of it somewhere. The reason I made one up was cos every number plate I have ever seen is always hanging down over the FMIC and radiator area....this has got to affect temperatures. The one I made sits the number plate above the air flow area.
  5. Fully change the battery and then use the headlights on high beam for 60 seconds and see if the battery handles it or drops down to say under 10 volts. If it stays above 12 volts its OK, if it drops, its had it.
  6. U could try running the turbo without coolant for a minute or so and see if the white smoke still happens.
  7. Before everyone jumps on a train that they can't get off, has anyone actually measured the heat changes in the fuel at the tank? I'd be interested in quantifying just how much heat we are talking about? What pump type? And under what conditions? Maybe what is needed for a dedicated track car isn't necessary for a road going version? I didn't see this data anywhere in the thread BTW.
  8. I'm yet to see an aftermarket BOV that performs better than stock in a street car. They only thing they seem better at is wank factor.
  9. I'm interested Matt...will wait on your installation on the 4wd and appraisal here if you can thanks.
  10. You can use a bicycle pump and check the line if you need to. You may need someone else in the drivers seat to see if the gauges work. I did this when setting up the Snow Performance kit - they suggest it - and I wanted to hear the WMI motor cutting in and out along with the anti drain solenoid clicking without the motor noise.
  11. I tend to agree with your reply, but is it actual experience??? And as for the projector setup, I can see your point, but are these LED replacements engineered for an LED headlight, or are they made for a halogen or normal projector...…...does anybody even know? And there is a thread on here about the legality...apparently its fine as long as it dips correctly to the left and there is no glare. So short reply, I still don't know which ones to look at. Maybe I need to be the lab rat and buy and try a set?
  12. Ok, I searched on here, didn't see much at all tbh. I just changed over the sealed beam headlight I had on my bike to an LED unit [had to buy a new lens as well, but nothing wrong with my old lens] and the difference was very impressive..so thought I might do the same for the Skyline. I also had a look on ebay and there were so many LED headlight 'globes' it was overwhelming. Most promise a gazillion watts/lumens/K but all look pretty much the same - admittedly some have little fans, others have heatsinks on the arse end, some have rats tail H4 connections, others the spade H4 straight off the back...………..but I have no idea if these changes are better or worse. And it looks like you can get a pair of LED's for around $30 [and certainly under $50] delivered, so cheap really. I am still using normal halogen bulbs, with the yellowish, not so bright light and so thought I'd try an 'upgrade'. I know others have used 'white light' globes from the likes of Phillips etc that cost more than they are worth and I'm not that keen to go down that path anyway. I also bought a HID kit years ago...and then never ever fitted it, its still brand new in the box [probably need to sell I guess]. BTW on the operating temp, there was a great test done by a guy on a motorcycle forum where he tested a normal globe, a Halogen globe, and an LED [with little fan] setup using an infrared temp gun and the LED came out way cooler all round. That has to be a good thing. And finally { I have no idea on this] is it legal?? I can't see why not if they are a direct replacement, offer the same or better light, and operate much cooler than halogens anyway. So does anyone have any experience at LEDs on a vehicle? What did you end up with? And was it a better light?
  13. Some restrictors are slip in and you just unbolt them...just check if yours is like this before dragging out the 9" angle grinder.
  14. Take the pump out and try connecting it to 12 volts for a few seconds - away from the tank and let it is dry before you do, don't want a spark singing your eyebrows. This will tell you that the pump is/isn't the problem.
  15. Would twin cam work better? ie anRB25de head? It has to breathe better surely?
  16. Mine has 98K....I've owned it for over 15 years. I only drive it on trips, so not that often. Its not a daily, I have a crappy 4wd that I use for that. I also use my motorbike for lots of trips. And the bloke that owned it before me put 1700km on it in 2 years [I have the import docs]. Its an April '98, he imported it in Jan 2000, with what we think is correct mileage at 38k, I bought it off him in Nov 2001.
  17. Dead coil packs affect the whole range....not just higher up. Red is dead, Blue is true. If you don't believe us, take the coils and get them tested. Otherwise take it to a workshop and get their input.
  18. Check the connections to the fuel pump...listen and see if you can hear it trying to work next time it happens.
  19. Or go back to std suspension......ie do it right or not at all
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