tridentt150v

Mine has the 'dual' drilled and tapped positions. I used the T3 and a GT3076 WG [popular choice for many]. And yes, in theory you could use the T4 footprint for a bigger turbo, but tI wouldn't like to port match the T4 footprint to the turbo [assuming the T4 has a larger throat]. To do that I would guess you'd firstly have to build up the outside with cast weld to strengthen and thicken the metal. If you didn't do this I'm estimating/guessing you'd almost certainly break out, or thin the metal that much it would be too weak and fracture/burn away. By the way, the limiting factor isn't the turbo size, there is plenty of room all round, its the turbo inlet size. I have a 100mm unit and had to cut back the front engine mount for clearance. I actually thought of refacing the mounting position ie cut the T3 mounting face back at an angle [say 5 degree's], this would swing the turbo mouth out a bit, but then you have the stud holes, so you would have to weld them up and retap square to the new face etc. I don't think this would have affected flow, the manifold casting [tubing] is still at a slight angle as it drops to the T3 face - but then I got lazy and left it. Now its on and I CBF, its working, I'm driving, thats it.

And you don't use it for heating, only cooling.

I'd get to it and chuck a separate earth strap on that pump, don't need a power lead, but an earth for SII, and as Abo Bob asked, what pump?

I think there was another thread with this very same topic only a day or so ago, basically if your 3040 is not a genuine garrett, then there could be a problem??? But do a search and you'll find it.

The boss kit should have a position locator on the back of it. You need to line that up with the indicator actuator, it has to engage it.

Same sh1t, different bucket: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Th...ay-t230505.html

If you didn't get any reaction when you disconnected the injector, I'd have to say you have a dud injector, pretty obvious. Try swapping injectors and see if the problem moves with the injector, that would tell you for sure.

^^^ I agree with trel, cold start up swings to 8 then as it warms up settles to 2 on idle. Cruising warm around 3.7-4.1, give it a bit, 4.5 say. Normal.

You can check if its rings or valves and guides by squirting a bit of heavy oil [gearbox?] in the cylinder and then redoing the compression test. If it doesn't read any higher, its valves and guides, if it improves then its rings. Also check that you haven't overfilled your oil, if you do that, you will blow blue smoke. Tap a bit out of it, get it to the correct level and it will be AOK.

Try ESP in Gilmore St Queanbeyan if its close, power 275rwkw assuming its a Gts2.5t, has a FMIC and a good fuel pump.

Not sure about that, if you use one relay and then take the thermofan power from the top one [black one] at 87a and then install a switch in the power lead to the fan, you only need the one relay. Its exactly the same for driving lights, on/off switch and another live switch to the low/high beam.

You haunting that silvia site Gus??? Back here slumming it???

Thanks Steph, my blind..........

arr hum!! you don't say what engine you are using?? RB25, 26 or 30??

No, all spark plugs have a gap, the energy then jumps across this gap as a spark.

read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...aus-t77082.html and I'm sure there is one with the HKS cast low mount as well??? Do a search.

Best flowing manifold is/was the HKS cast low mount, the only true low mount. But you'd likely not notice the advantage, I don't. A high flow makes it easier access for the turbo, but increases scrutiny from the porkers. I'd save your $$$ and use the std manifold, get it extrude honed if you want. BTW, to me a std manifold is a side mount.

265 rwkw.........I'll have to get me some of them there bogger injectors.............dast ist uber!!!

Back atcha, you have a HKS amplifier, or an MSD system. Can you increase the gap back to say std?? Or are you forever limited to the murky depths of 0.8mm. [btw I agree with you on the splitfire, any perceived improvement in spark is still insufficient to increase gap].

In????

No, but I wouldn't go below 0.7mm, try 0.8mm. Its only for cars running more boost anyway, say +12 psi. if your not running more boost don't do it. There is a balancing act between boost 'blowing the spark out' and the gap being large enough to provide a healthy enough spark to completely ignite the fuel.

you could get out and push...............have a go!! Sin or Jayce can hang out the window and make turbo spool and car sounds.

check your turbo lines first, if its on the lh side, they could need tightening? If its heater hose, bags not being you.

not wanting to hijack a thread, but what diff does splitfire coils make? Has anyone tried widening their gap again after installing them?? Logic says that if they are better than std coils, then you don't have to close the gap, it can be reset to say 1.1mm.

ebay usa, but its an aussie in Oz doing it. http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Black-Cold-Air-...1QQcmdZViewItem but its for a gtst, reckno you'd have to ask for a GTR