tridentt150v

All off a '98 Gts2.5t ECR33 For sale, all items neg., items posted only, Std cams 60,000km old very good $200 Std ex. cam pulley 60,000km old very good $50 Std cat as new $30 Std front pipe as new $40 2 x Std intake hoses one very good, one repaired but serviceable $20/$10 Kick panels both L and RH sides Ok condition $20 4x Speaker covers VDO brand new 175mm suit 6" speakers $10 Walbro 255L/500hp fuel pump with std bracket and 'O' ring 1,000km old **as new** SOLD HKS two layer mushroom pod air filter 200mm element washed, oiled and ready to go very good SOLD No name brand stainless steel split dump and gaskets, studs, and nuts brand new SOLD Hard intake pipe kits, hose clamps, silicon hoses etc [doesn't fit a R33] brand new WITHDRAWN 2x Aunger airfoil wiper blades 400mm brand new SOLD FOB

No, you should ask heaps of questions, this does two very important things: 1. It lets us laugh and poke fun at your naivety. 2. Gives us a chance to impress you and everyone else with our knowledge.

I'm only gunning for around 270-280rwkw. But I'd actually rather run a lower boost with a smaller rwkw, say 270rwkw all up. Presently making 240 on a garrett hiflow [GCG, also its not a std R33 turbo] at 16psi but have since installed tomei 256/8.5 cams so may end up with 250-270 anyway, but at 16psi. Its not excessive, but if I could do it at 12-14psi it would be better on a std motor. But I'm really just thinking about it at the moment. I'll get a lot more serious once I make up my mind, and amass the $$$$.

Is the HKS 2835proS a straight fit? And, if I replace my garrett highflow turbo with one, can I drive 200km to get it tuned?? I can't see any reason why not, if I sit on say 80km/h and take my time I should be OK, but I'd like to know what everyone reckons.

Nismo is easy fit, just finished putting mine in, nil noise at idle or when blipping, haven't driven it yet.

Pi R squared H Pi is 22/7 R is your bore size divided by 2 then times by itself again for squared. H is the 1.2mm Then add this to your original swept volume plus the recess of the head. Is this what you mean? Or have I totally misunderstood!!!

As my suggestion title says: I would like to search for [say] HKS GTRS turbo results in the Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, all dyno results section, but I can't do this, it will only give me a search option for whole section not for a thread ie Forced Induction Performance Section vs Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, all dyno results. Any chance of an enhancement to the search tool?

Try this: B - Orange/Blue trace C - Earth D - White/Blue trace E - Black/white trace looking at back of the plug [so pod is on your left and trubo on your right] B is the first wire out, and E is the fourth wire out.

Selling my dirt digger, thought I'd also post a link up here in case anyone wants to go off road: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135263

I didn't read this till i got to work, I'll look and let you know. My wires at the Z32 are all black, but across the top there is [from memory] 6 positions marked A,B,C,D,E,F and they join [from memory], black earth, a white/blue, a black/white, and another one I can't remember. Positions A and F are vacant. Please don't use this because none of it is in order, it IS NOT THE CODE. I'll check and get back to you as I've said.

MODIFICATIONS AND OPTIONS. HOLDEN 3.8L V6 MOTOR (RTA APPROVED) STAINLESS STEEL EXTRACTORS MARKS 4WD GEARBOX [EXTRA TOUGH] HEAVY DUTY PBR CLUTCH LANDCRUISER DIFF CONVERSION (REAR) 3.11 DIFF CENTRES 2 ½” EXHAUST KONI SHOCKS GREASEABLE SHACKLE PINS 4” LIFT KIT ON SUSPENSION 2 ½” LIFT KIT ON BODY 33” BF GOODRICH T/A TYRES SPARE TYRE SAME SIZE AND TYPE ANOTHER SET OF 33” TYRES 80% TREAD (ON SUNRAYSIA RIMS) CDMA MOBILE PHONE CAR KIT SPORTS STEERING WHEEL (STD ALSO INCLUDED) ALPINE STEREO WITH FOUR SPEAKERS [iN DOORS] BULLBAR WRAP AROUND REAR STEP AND TOWBAR ROLLBAR SIDESTEPS SNORKEL HELLA DRIVING LIGHTS REAR TRAY SPOTLIGHT WINDOWS TINTED UTE PROTECTOR MAT WHEEL ARCH FLARES FLOORMATS SEAT COVERS DASH MAT VEHICLE HAS DONE 188,000KM. CONTACT: DANNY ON 0269412249 DURING WORKING HOURS.

Ask your mechanic, or read through the forced induction forum for R33 turbo results. What you want to avoid is way overfueling, and if you start doing that you could damage something real quick [besides your wallet..lol]. Overfueling washes the oil off your bore, contaminates your oil, and gases the car behind you. If your doing a gradual build up then I'd go 555 [and you'll probably find you won't need any bigger], if you are pulling it all off the road and going gangbusters with the whole kit [forgies, biga$$ turbo, fmic, ecu, cams, etc etc etc] then 740's would be OK. A lot of ppl are running with 555's and getting 250rwkw at around 60% duty cycle, so the system is no way maxed out. I'd think that 555's could handle close to 300 before they need upgrading.

R33 series II and Z32 are the same size 80mm. You should be able to just throw the old one over the shoulder and insert the new one without even looking up...........too easy. As far as I know they are pretty much a direct replacement. But you will need to hook the four wires up in correct sequence. Let me know if you need a wire code over each one and I'll look at mine.

gap is too small for 0.8 bar, spark would be weak, thus fuel problems What sort of dump?

Sounds good, how may $$$$ you talking about? [as I here him running away in the distance]. On second thoughts, just buy a 2835proS or GTRS and bring it down with you and we'll have a deal!!!

For 270rwkw I'd buy a nismo fuel pump, they have the added advantage of just plug and play, no mods required. You can get a 044 later and use the nismo as a lift pump. Thats if your gunning for 300rwkw+.

yeah, I should qualify my initial 243 at 18psi by saying that - that is the setting I have dialed in on my evc. When looked at on the dyno printout I make 16psi, I don't get to 18. And Gigolo are you happy with your turbo?

Nah, its all Ok, you made me think twice........so I went searching and looking for comparisons, and thats pretty much what I came up with [R33 turbo results forum]. Mines a highflow..............just don't know what highflow....lol Power fc, stock internals, drives fine, boost starts at around 2700-3000 and hits harder at 3500-4000. PM'd you.

Yeah, thanks to Cef11e, but, still really don't know what its good for yet, probably be an all right thing. Doesn't appear to be any worse than a std hiflo one, question now is 'Can it be Better'. Guess I'll get the answers to that when I get the cams tuned by Ed on the dyno. if it runs out of puff then its no good, but (and I think this will be the case) if it continues to make good power and gives a healthy increase then it will be sweet. When I was resetting my evc I saw boost levels of 1.8-2.0 bar so I'm optimistic the turbo can deliver [i backed off real quick from those boost spikes, worried about engine damage etc]. Thanks for the help everyone! And Steve and JaiJai if you go and have a look at the turbo results for other cars in the Forced Induction section you will see that what my car is making is about std run of the mill stuff for a highflow. i looked through several pages and most hiflo gtst's are doing about what I am and with similar boost, or doing commensurately less with less boost.

You can get a HKS 2835proS or GTRS for $2800 from nengun, why would you muck around with an old one [that you have to buy and then send to GCG = $2400+].

sh#tty clapped out injectors dribbling instead of misting/spraying

1.2bar and 243 actually, I thought it was OK. I see ppl claiming the same power figure from 10psi etc, but I question that.

Yeah, didn't mean to scare you. Once you learn this sort of stuff, you forget it/don't have to remember it. It becomes like putting the blinker on or riding a bike, you do it, you just don't remember doing it. Its all part of the whole welding thing. Geoff, been guilty of doing that myself, but it doesn't always work, slag in welds, porousity, chrome/gal embrittlement etc etc But it does work for all new steel jobs, and I'd reckon 3/4 of the time its sweet and simple.

And remember, up welds and down welds are heaps harder to do than flat welds. But you really need to learn about bevelling, cleaning the site of contaminants, determining which stick/wire to use [yes there are heaps of different types for different metals and applications], route gaps, heat ranges, impurities in metal, distortion rates etc etc etc

Thanks Cef11e, I sort of new a bit of this [you can see garrett and the A/R 0.60 on the front of the compressor housing, and I knew only too bl##dy well that I had an inbuilt wastegate spindle on the back flange ggrrr......but other than that, I had no idea. I already have a non std dump on it - but not a split dump - it sort of looks like they used the top and bottom flange and welded it to a length of 90mm pipe with the appropriate bend in it. Its well made, I was just going to try a split dump - - because I could - - till I found out I couldn't lol. It's nice to have someone answer that can supply me with the correct terminology though. And the size and type helps, maybe I don't need to upgrade my turbo at all now, I might have a good enough one as it is for the moment [was looking at a 2835proS]. BTW I have an apexi 90mm front pipe [and HKS hyper system]. PS I didn't know, because I've actually never seen a std turbo.............the joys of isolation in the country