tridentt150v

$20K

Their adds used to say lifetime warranty ??I think?? Look one up in HPI/PI magazine etc so i guess they are a good thing

There was a table of test results for manifolds kicking around. I think it was bench flowed results, it would be a bit dated now, but it was good because it had back to back tests in it. The HKS cast low mount came out best overall, but I'm sure some of the well built ones like 6boost etc would be just as good these days [not sure if they were around when the tests were done?] If you searched you could probably still find it, think it was on a UK site but may have been an NZ test?

S what is the car spitting out at the moment??? 200rwkw???

or try a proper octane booster, one that works. You can substitute methanol/toluene if you know what your doing. I know methanol works, a litre in half a tank would probably fix it. Or top the tank up with E85 and have a 50/50 mix.

But maybe more like 400hp, then go RB30 built motor and E85 or WMI and 450-500hp is doable. Mind you, 400 is lots of fun.

walbro and others say 255 lp/h, I couldn't find the flow rate for a std unit, but that one you have pictured looks like a nismo/tomei unit [except for the fittings at the top?] like Scotty says. And I can't remember but thought pressure was around 50psi....

Plus how long was it between runs, your tyres could be slipping a tad as well.

Not to hijack thread, I only did one agressive accel in 3rd and one hill in 5th. After that I learnt that if you didn't load the motor up it was fine. I drove it like a deisel truck until I organised another tune. If they had ever tested their tune on the road they would have seen what they did with no real effort. And they had the car there for a fortnight [i had to drop it off and leave, I work away a fair bit].

Better that than 300kw and pinging its head off like one so called reputable workshop in Sydney did to me...never ever forgive them for that. I saw knock readings up to 190 and had to drive very conservatively until I got a new tune from a person that actually knew what they were doing and weren't in it just for the $$$$!! I would have taken it back, but why??? Wasn't letting a load of muppets play grenades with my skyline again.........once bitten twice shy!!! I think you will see a better result from another tuner, or at least a valid reason why the power figure is low - thus giving you some direction.

That smoky, sooty, dusty look is pure race cred!!!!

I'm not 100% sure, but from what I remember its a whole fixture, part of the car etc so you would have to cut and weld etc. Why don't you look at using some sheet metal, gal steel or alloy and pop rivet or blind bolt it to the underside then cut new speaker holes in it where you want. Do this and then paint it up, you'll never spot the difference.

take it to a good skyline/import mechanic, could be anything from loose exhaust to water pump/harmonic balancer to lifters sticking to bottom end

drive very conservatively until you can use 98. If you have E85 around, squeeze some of that into the tank and dilute the 95. Around 10-15 litres will help, octane booster will also work if you get one that actually works.

Repco usually has copper washers, but just anneal yours and re use agian and again.

swapping the bolts out is a fix, but that doesn't help if the threads are sloppy or the material is soft around the thread area, but you can get around it with loctite. But a smashed motor is way more costly than the $200-300 your trying to save, so a quality item is cheap insurance in some ways.

yeah, good call, my mistake, I meant flywheel kw and if you read it as that the sentence makes sense.

You need some strength for rocks, rabbits and birds etc I've had a bird hit mine and it didn't really worry it at all. I'll put up a pic of what I've done.

An R34 GTT was quoted from factory at 206rwkw, a standard one on the dyno usually got around the 160 mark but it varies according to tyres, different diffs, gearboxes [manual vs tiptronic], even the oil and bearings used. You can 'safely' say that you will lose at least 30rwkw as a baseline for a skyline. Then it depends on how much power your car makes as to the overall loss. As a hypothetical example = A 600kw car will be more efficient but still lose more in total than a 100kw car because the harder you work something the higher your friction component. So it might lose 60rwkw but still make 540 and the 100kw car might lose 20rwkw and make 80, as a percentage of total power the 600kw car is then more efficient, 90% vs 80%. It loses more because it is revving harder, and working more thus increasing losses overall to friction. But it all gets way too hard to actually calculate a result with any certainty, too many variables - so as TiTan said the dyno is the best solution.

It all depends on how you drive and what you are doing............like me, many ppl have SAFC and boost controllers mounted on the dash/steering column/console and have no problems with it. I've been pulled over and they have looked at the car while I've done a RBT and then let go with no problems. But then again I don't use the road as a burn out pad or a race track. So wanting to hide it is sort of suspicious???

No, if you are running with more boost say >10psi then you have to reduce your gap to 0.8mm anyway. the extra boost is blowing out the spark across the arc. By lowering the gap it gives the charge a better chance of sparking. 0.8mm may fix it and you'll not need anything else - I run with 0.8mm gap, heaps of ppl here do it.

front mount intercooler, pod and 10psi actuator but what is your real boost, did you use an AM gauge? because you could be running with more boost than you think.

r+r = rich and retard, you have maxed out the std ecu, you will need a bender eg SAFC or ecu eg Vipec etc

One step at a time, firstly, take your radiator to a radiator shop/guy and get him to clean and pressure test it Then buy your hoses and set the radiator up with proper coolant again. It sounds like your thermostat is working OK, may not be the right one but you'll have to work with it for now and see - the radiator guy may be able to help. If your sister is a bit of a looker have her 'help' you drop the stuff off, you might get a slightly better deal???? Ebay radiators are probably Ok for a 'Get out of Jail Free' card, but don't be surprised if they don't fit as well as your std one - also phone up Just Jap or go to their Trader section in the For Sale section of SAU on here and send them a PM, they have chinese alloy radiators and although the quality might not be Greddy spec, they would be OK and at least will fit plus you'd get some warranty and/or support. I'd doubt that the water galleries in the motor would be blocked, it would take a fair bit for that to happen. The only other part of this equation is your water pump? And you can pick one up on ebay for under $80 [last i looked] and they work.

I opt for dirty terminals on the battery or a bad earth, your voltage is dropping when you load it up. Could also be a bad cell in your battery failing under load, can happen!!