tridentt150v

Ifr its what i think it means, you can get in between size exhaust housing as per 3037 ie .68, but I didn't read the whole thread so I could be wrong and you'd probably be able to use their split dump setup back to the cat, so no custom work required. Bolt on stuff and easy as.........would be much cheaper in the long run.

If you do what Siks says [and good write up], then you could have a lazy injector, Doesn't like the cold and only free's up when it warms up. Either buy new or get them cleaned and serviced.

^^^^+1 Also helps get rid of any fuel smell if you have been playing with your fuel tank etc I wouldn't remove it, better on than off.

I was going to put one on as well. Asked and had a lot of people get back to me with good info. I haven't done it yet - one battle at a time and I'm fighting/modding elsewhere atm...lol. On ebay they have the ap60 etc, they are supposed to be OK [i was told the stalk one was crappy]. I emailed the guy that was selling them and had a good reply, had some recommendations sent to me on what to get, I'll get them and post them up for you.

I'll see if I can find it, but I read somewhere that the LED's are a different impedance and you have to use them with some sort of adaptor otherwise all your lights go haywire............damn I can't remember which www or forum I read that now. Edit: had a 10 minute look - there is some random stuff on the web about resistor boxes and having to calculate the resistance you will need etc but I can't find the article I was looking at. If I do I'll get back to you.

What colour is std, I thought purple was std??? Mines a '98 R33 and I've got yellow tops= nismo 555's and they flow like that as well - they were on the car already from Japan, but I'm sure that purple tops were the std colour in '98 rb25's??

Did someone say fight..........[running fast but careful not to spill or drop stubby]!!! I usually put my hand over the rocker cap area and measure how hard it trys to blow it off, but then I'm no garage or tuning expert.....thats how bad I think its choofing and the thread starter didn't ask for any specific car, just what is blowby? Just as long as we don't start on negative crankcase pressure hey.......

I'd also try setting your plug gap to say 0.9 and see if that works - a long shot, but if cold dense air is the culprit it could be affecting the spark?

Snow performance recommend 60-100mm from the TB, so yours is a bit close, try drilling and tapping another hole and weld or bolt the other one up. Even a hose clamp with a bit of rubber tube inner would cover the other one temporarily. Like that second link btw linkems, good one that I haven't seen before.

^^^^ but he said a fresh rb25NEO or a questionable rb26dett and didn't want spend to much more after this ['minimum alterations and investment'] and considering his power goals I still think the NEO is the better option. I agree that the 26 has more potential, but could also cost a swag more to get it.............

yep, probably kill the cat.....lol

Heavy breathing......if you take your oil filler cap off and the motor is choofing hard [thee will be some blowby but you should be able to tell the diff]. If you dipstick keeps popping out, if you are using heaps of oil, if you are leaking oil out of the sump and/or rockers, if you have a burnt oil smell, if you have oil in your rocker tubing that drips out......there's probably a few I've missed.

Yes, ECU [nistune, haltech, link, vipec, power FC etc etc] and bigger injectors [555 or 740's] and a better fuel pump than std, and other mods

The rb25Neo engine will easily meet your goal pf 350ps. I'd match that up with a a HKS2835ProS or Garrett GT3076 and you will see 270 to 300rwkw all day long. The GTRS is probably a bit smaller and you will only see 250 to 270rwkw [i know some are making more, but as a general rule]. Try reading through the results page for the Rb25. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html I would consider swapping the rb20 gearbox for an rb25 unit while your at it - the rb25 is much stronger and if you are using it for drift then you will be using it hard. What supporting mods do you have? ECU? FMIC? fuel pump? etc etc

You still haven't done that mod yet, hell you must take as much time as I do to do anything. Have to stop thinking too much about things and just get in and do it. A lot of the HKS cast low mount manifolds are tapped and drilled for both T4 and T3, mine is, no ill effects at all. It it still going OK, no cracks or such. And there is enough meat in the 0.82 to get into it with grinders and shape the exhaust housing throat to the same size as the manifold so that you have a smooth entry for airflow. You should start a poll and see how many HKS cast low mounts are tapped for T3, T4, or both - you'd be surprised.

Or you could buy a pressure cleaner [karcher, spitwater etc], use the degreaser and then wash off with the karcher. A good pressure cleaner can take your skin off at 100mm, so use gloves when holding parts and getting into it.

I did a real test to the GC and back [up via Pacific, back via Newell] and averaged 9.66/100km and that was traffic, open road, rain, roadworks, the works. I was pretty pleased considering the power. And I'm a 10%'er too.

OptimusGrime??

Haven't snapped a cam have you?

Holds boost well to, only 1psi drop, thats pretty OK

WG or IW Krzysiu?

GCG are Garrett agents, Slide used to have them but I think he lost it. I'd still advocate external wastegate esp for headroom, more $$$ but worth it for the future.

I like my 0.82, but I think a mid sized exhaust housing would be better. The HKS 3037 is 0.68 and I think it is still a midgion small. Ideally I have a feeling that somewhere around the 0.75 would be ideal, but I do highway miles and my 0.82 is good for that. At 100km/h it is just spooling and then it gets motoring from then on. A 0.63 would be spooling all the time. But this is for my use, others have different needs and uses.

My short term goal while the car is still a daily and doesn't see any track work, is roughly 270rwkw with remotely decent response. the IW .82 rear looks very laggy for street use...but I don't know what's involved regarding dump pipe etc for an external gate setup... this will depend on whether you want street or highway response, but for a middle of the road, a 0.63 or 0.82 are your best bet on a 3076 I know I WILL want 300rwkw+ in the future, so I don't want to drop the rear housing size in case this will restrict me....more or less, my questions are as follows: What size injectors? If I ever bother with more than 320rwkw, I will have the funding to replace them if needed...I'm fairly sure the 555's will suffice. 555's yes What specs should I get for the turbo? I would rather not have to replace it in the long run, but certainly don't want to deal with a ph@ laggy slug in the meantime. I'd go a 3076 external gate if you are looking 300rwkw for the future, a 3076 will give you the head room to work with and an external gate will give you the dependability. An internal gate works, but do a search on it and you will see heaps of people talking about gate creep and ways to beat it, you won't see this on an external gate Above question also comes down to....internal or external? If external, I will be running a screamer (of course not gating it all over the place, I'm not stupid), so will I need to replace my dump pipe? as above, and yes you will need a whole new dump and wastegate pipe, it is unlikely that any of that size will bolt up to your existing system The turbo's I'd be looking at are the HKS 2835ProS, HKS 3037 or the Garrett GT3076WG, and the Garrett is the only one that has an external gate [used to be able to get the HKS2835Pro but I'm not sure if it is still available]. As for size, the 0.63 is better for street, and the 0.82 is better for highway, and it will depend on your needs. Alternatively you could go with something not so mainstream [and then have to R+D it yourself] such as the AVO or Turbonetics range, but I'm not so sure there are any advantages.

the gap allows movement as Adriano said, you have an intercooler on the chassis and a turbo or intake pipe on the motor = vibration and movement would be different for each component so the hose flex's and allows for it.