airbox

cheers mate!

does anyone know if the safc holds its values if the battery is disconnected or if it is unplugged? Or do I have to have it set up again if power is disturbed? thanks

can anyone tell me what offset I need to fit a series 1 rsv with gtst brakes fitted please? I had to put 6mm spacers on the front so the original 16" wheels would fit. cheers

it is an SAFC version1. It has 2 grounds and I have done them like you say. The airflow signal wire I cut and used connectors to join it to the SAFC as you say. Thanks for your help

thanks mate. I have wired it up now as per the SAFC instructions. I used the power supply that they suggested which is pin 67 which according to your pinout diagram is the control unit power supply and the earth I used is pin 55 which calls it the MAFS ground. Hopefully I have done it correctly!! I haven't plugged in the SAFC yet and the airflow signal I have left connected via a bullet (well spade actually) connector. I am hoping to get it set up tomorrow so all I have to do is plug in the SAFC and join the airflow connection to it.

checked and I did have the ground and airflow the wrong way. It is airflow-orange/blue and ground-white/blue. Also the rpm wire is blue/white and not black/white like in your diagram. That is if B=black and L=blue. Must be the right one though as it is in that pin position

The instructions are telling me the power is pin 67 and the ground is 55. I have to connect the grounds from the SAFC to 55 and they have to be the right way round and 1cm apart

excellent, thanks very much. I shall recheck as I think the ground and airflow I think I have got the wrong way round and the rpm I need to check. As long as L means blue I think I have the rest right!

I need some help please. I am fitting an SAFC to my series1 stagea awd. I have downloaded the instructions for fitting it but before I commit myself to baring wires etc I was hoping that someone could confirm I have the right wires! Is this right? The wiring colours at the ecu are: power-black/white ground-orange/blue air flow-white/blue throttle-red/blue rpm-blue/white Cheers

I have got a depo oil pressure gauge and sender on the way, a bit starwars for my liking but it'll do what I want, will mount it in the centre top right air vent, already fitted r32gtr gauges below the aircon but they are boost, oil temp and volts.

yes light comes on with ignition

what oil pressure does the rb25det run at, at tickover and through the revs please if anyone knows? I have f**ked my engine by having a blocked oil strainer, (don't ask, long story!) but at no time did the oil warning light come on. I am getting a replacement engine fitted and thought of fitting either a depo gauge with a settable alarm on it or a higher pressure oil switch like this http://automech-uk.c...uemart&Itemid=1 This is the cheapest option and at least the light would work then when there is still enough pressure to save big ends and main bearings etc. Or is the tickover lower than that? I do not want to be caught out like that again. Some vehicles have the oil warning light fitted to a oil level switch which is totally useless in my opinion as you could have a full sump and no oil pressure!!

Been thinking about a boost controller for a while but couldn't make up my mind which way to go, electronic expensive or cheap manual. The cheap manual ones work on a ball and spring and although I have heard good reports on them I didn't like the way they operate by suppressing the pressure to the wastegate rather than bleeding it off as the standard set up. I had tried to just bypass the solenoid but that gave me too much boost and spiky too, so I thought if I bought an adjustable valve and just bled a bit more off than the solenoid does I would get as much boost as I wanted. As standard with the solenoid shut and no air bleeding off then the wastegate opens at 3 to 5 psi, solenoid open and you get 7 psi. This is all confirmed with my boost guage, which although is only a r32gtr one, seems to read right. So I bought one of these off ebay for £18 I had to change one of the male connectors to the bottom and blank off the hole. I then modified the original solenoid bracket and mounted the new valve to it. I first tried with a full turn out and that gave me about 10 or 11psi, so screwed it in to just over half a turn out and that gave me about 8 and seems to be nice and steady with no spikes or anything. Very pleased with it, nice and cheap and only took an afternoon pottering to fit.

sorry mate, I should have said.... I am in the UK!!!!

it's easier I reckon cos I would just replace the solenoid with the bleed valve, nothing else. start off with it closed for 5psi and crack it open a bit at a time until I get about 9psi. The turbotech one is more expensive and you are also changing the Tee piece and if as you say it works like a ball and spring type one, then the operation is different to standard where air is bled away to keep the pressure at the actuator down. I'll let you know how I get on!!