GT500_Racer

As titled, after a stock rb25det stock manifold, preferable lower half, but both should b fine Cheaper the better Contact: 0412605889

Pricing negotiable... ONO Bump

sat night bump

Bump..... Looks exactly like this... just minus dumps/cat

Looking for a mate atm, he wants to purchase one, but has to be a 1993, Series 1 GTST, only so he can wack club permit once it hits 25 years old.... Must be in VIC Manual Budget: 5k max Just msg or pm me, an i will forward him the msg cheers Contact: 0412605889

As titled went for a different exhaust system Price: $300 Located: Victoria, Melbourne, Northern Suburbs Contact: 0412605889 (Not actual image, will post em up night, only for reference)

Just throwing up a expression of interest, if someone wants them im more than happy to sell em OR swap them for 17x9 +22 wheels with cash your way. These are 17x8 +38 17x9 +38 i believe... stickers have faded on the inside, considering the wheels where made back in the 90's only set in australia i believe... Genuine 3 Piece wheels Slight gutter rashes here an there paint isnt the best condition, never been refurbished Wheels are straight and round, no buckles or cracks on the barrels at all Suits most cars, Honda, Nissans, Mazda etc etc PRICE: $1200 Contact: 0412 605 889 Located: Victoria, Melbourne, Northern Suburbs Can meet half way if you want, city or so

As titled just seeing if anyone is selling a set of Stern rims, 17x9 +19 must be in VIc cheers

Yeah getting new oil lines made up. cheers guys, makes life easier now, dont have to pull off the banjo bolt and run around looking for the right size

Hi guys, got access to a older type turbo non water cooled cartridge, i was looking at blocking off the water feed, but im not too sure what the water feed thread on the block is or the bolt size. What size and thread bolt do i use to block off the water feed on the block? cheers

Hey guys i got a R33 factory sun roof model, it was all well and good till it stopped working awhile back... I dont intend on fixing it, considering its over 20 years old, parts are getting rarer to fix em, and they do weight a bit... so im gonna give it the flick. Does anyone at the moment produce a blank off/delete panel for R33? I saw a lancer evo sunroof delete panel, a one off in the states... looks handy, and saves the trouble of welding a sheet metal panel over the top or even lexan sheet cheers

Yeah tried bleeding it 3 times, left the car warm, and cracked the bleeder open and tried the old fashion way of bleeding it through the radiator So went for a drive, and found out that the lower rad hose isnt even remotely warm, either a blockage or most likely a faulty thermostat. No milky deposits, im guessing the thermostat is getting stuck and causing boiling, making the radiator cap open, causing coolant to boil into the overflow resulting in the coolant lost Fingers cross it is a faulty radiator or thermostat cheers lads

Hi guys got a weird one going on with the rb25.... Its only started happening the last 2 weeks, so the car will drive fine, but on a recent long drive i saw the temp needle move pass half... alarmed me for a bit, but it came back down, odd, but when i parked, i discovered my over flow was empty filled it up an she was sweet again, temp never moved again, low on coolant i guess SO upon inspection i have found 1 leaking hose, replaced that, and went through the system and didnt really find any other leaks besides that one. But still doesn't account for the lost of coolant every drive, i did a quick visual check of the water pump, no signs of leaks and under the sump area, its kinda got me stumped Once the car shuts off after a long drive over an hour on freeway, i can hear the over flow bubbling, and it over fills and pukes, than after 10 minutes i can hear the upper radiator sucking the coolant back in.... Car does not blow white smoke on start up or driving, shows no symptoms of bubbling coolant in rad or over flow, so cant be head gasket right? are there specific hoses prone to leaking that are behind the block? cheers guys

Car came with a K's Rom chipped ecu, so its fine to handle higher boost

Hey guys so i finally had time to put a timing gun onto the engine after 20000kms of use since i last did a timing belt swap, wen i last did it, every thing aligned perfectly, even after spinning the crank by hand 3-6 times the alignment is spot on, back than i was lazy to put a timing light on after the belt So heres where the problem starts, Ive never touched the CAS till today, besides pulling it out to remove it for a t-belt swap..... When i put the gun on the Timing marks on the crank read 0 - 5, jumping... which to me isnt right.... BUT the car is boosting good at 12 psi... runs fine, feels like 200rwkw should feel The original CAS settings was maxed out to the left from the previous owner, im not sure why.. but maybe has something to do with this lol Im getting the timing by using a spark plug lead, going from coilpack to spark plug to get the signal when i change the timing to 15 degrees as per the manual, TPS unplugged and idling @ 850rpm, on boost it feels like it has zero power, almost like it doesnt wanna boost at all, but my boost gauge tells me it is, im at a lost here.... Im gonna pull the timing cover off again an double check again... everything....