PUDZ 32R

selling xenon headlight bulbs (NOT HID) that i had in my skyrine before i changed to HID there is a new unopened pack of 2 55W bulbs to suit low beam, plus 1 spare 55W bulb. 2 100W high beam bulbs. (yes i know they are in a 55W box- they are 100W) all bulbs are H3C pattern. if your headlights arent this pattern dont buy! simples! located in victoria park, perth. chasing $20 or a 6 pack of somersby apple cider. just too good to throw out seeing as they cost me about $40 per pack new. Alex 0424 076 567

sounds to me like your TCS working. cutting the spark? and a bit of unburnt fuel burning once it hits the turbine blades. similar to hitting the limiter for a split second. sounds pretty normal to me but im no expert on '34s

yeah its still driving fine! thats whats confusing me. i know it could mean limp mode but it still has the same amount of power as normal . it also didnt do it all day today?? WTF!! im thinking im just gunna cut the wires.

ok i know im digging up an old post but it seemed better than starting a new one.. i installed a mines tuned ECU into my '32 GTS-t yesterday and now today driving my car around town this exhaust gas temp light is flashing on the dash basically as soon as i start the car. it flashes almost constantly sometimes and even when i am not booting it just cruising at 60kph with constant throttle. this has me worried because i know when the exhaust temp gets hot it is a sign of leaning out but this light is flashing at all driving conditions. if i just cut the wires will the ECU go into limp mode? what is worrying me is that i have heard mines tune their ECUs for 102 octane fuel and im only running 98 which is the best i can get here. if anyone else has had this issue for any reason please let me know! thanks.

My '32 did this for a while and i replaced a heap of stuff. it turned out to be a blocked radiator so i got 52mm triple core ally one and it has not moved since. also heard that if your car hasnt been bled correctly after refilling the radiator coolant it will overheat.

my bet is still on coil packs breaking down under load. when it is boosting. my '32 was doing the exact same thing when i wound the boost up to 14psi it lasted a few days then started to missfire when it was boosting. drove fine at all other times. i ordered some yellowjackets from performance wise through this forum and now they are fitted my car runs sweet. no missfire no loss of power under boost no overfuelling backfires out the exhaust. all good. i would suggest winding your boost back down if that fixes it it is definatley coil packs. if you gap your plugs 2 low you will still get missfires due to the spark simply not being strong enough to ignite the fuel. i run mine at .9 with yellowjackets and no issues. the missfire started at .8 with new iridiums and standard packs.

i ordered 2 sets on xmas eve, 1 to suit RB20 and 1 to suit RB25 NEO hopefully they get here soon!

i use a 1/4" ratchet and an 8mm deep socket to adjust mine. its easy to get in there like that. screwdriver is wayyy to hard to muck with trying to fit it in there

maybe buy some internal hex wheel nuts? thats what i had to do with my '32. the nuts are M12x1.25. i paid $40 for 20 of them and they came with a hex bit as well. other than that Stahlwille make some very thin walled sockets but they are massivley expensive. try about $750 for a basic socket set.

behind the stereo there will be a blue wire coming out the back with a heap of other wires. disconnect this one. not the blue with white trace though as this is your amp remote turn on wire. that should fix it!

what do you mean by your old pump is having trouble? have you considered running new wire to the old pump to up the voltage it gets? im not sure if that is what is causing your pump to play up but its worth changing anyway especially if you go and put an 040 pump in. there are heaps of threads on how to do it around this site.

im going with toe out or incorrect alignment in another way. from what i understand you had your suspension checked and then replaced the bushes afterwards? if thats the case it could have moved.

DAMN that '32 looks nice! here i was thinking most burgundy style colours look old. but just look at that '32!

Go Black FTW. they still look good but not wanky. Black and then sand back the nissan lettering if you want to. plus black and burgundy go together good. only other colour i can thing that wouldnt look bad is a brembo style bronze gold colour

doesnt matter if you are idling in your driveway or giving it full boost down conrod straight. it should read between 80 to 90 degrees. sometimes it will go up a bit higher when idling at the lights on a hot day but thats what your fan is there for. if it is reading 60 i am not surprised in any way that the car wont start or run properly. the timing will be retarded to the shithouse as the computer thinks the car is cold so it retards the timing to attempt to get the engine up to running temp faster. also will be choking on all the extra fuel getting injected. Run your guage from the proper sensor. that is why the RB20 has 2. a super accurate one for ECU and a cheaper 1 pin job for the guage.

as far as i know everyu engine on the planet turns the same way. ie clockwise when looking at it from the front. both fans will work fine provided you make sure the offset is not going to make the blades too close to the radiator or when your fan clutch engages you will find a nice fan shaped hole cut into the radiator. the one with swept forward blades (left one) is R32 and will be noisier as it "bites" into the air from the outside leading edge. the other one has swept back blades to reduce noise however noise shouldnt be a problem on either fan if your clutch is working properly. hope this helps.

i am assuming you have the pfc programmed to take over all of the original computers controls and removed the old computer? if so maybe your ECU water temp sensor is feeding the pfc dodgy info? as the pfc would not have a default map to revert to like the skyline computer does? could be worth a try testing it by swapping with a mates?

sounds pretty normal for the fuel pressure to do this. im not sure of the exact pressures but it does reduce pressure at idle as the vacuum is greater and opens up the fuel pressure regulator more. therefore when you rev a bit or under boost the regulator closes more hence increasing the pressure in the fuel rail. i am still leaning towards AFM or a boost leak in your intercooler piping or even a vac leak like an intake manifold gasket or a cracked hose. take it to a good mechanic and get them to do an intake pressure test where they pressurise your intake tract with a harmless smoke that way you will see if there are any leaks that you need to fix. if this doesnt turn up any leaks i would say your AFM or the wiring to the AFM are dodgy.

my brother had this problem in his '33 and it turned out to be the wiring from the AFM to the computer had cracked so when he changed the AFM and it didnt fix anything he thought it was not AFM related but it turned out to be exactly what was wrong. if you want to test this you will need wire to run from your AFM direct to the ECU and an ECU wiring diagram to work out which pins to connect it to. might help you might not. keep us informed if you figure out what was wrong not enough people do it and it helps if you read an old thread and can find out a fix rather than having to ask the same questions again.

there is a post on this exact topic 5 posts down on the first page. we are thinking it is the guys ECU water temp sensor (the 2 pin one) unplug it then try starting your car when its cold if this works buy a new sensor.

it sounds like a fluke that unplugging your guage temp sensor "fixed" your problem as the guage sensor has nothing to do with the ECU. the ECU sensor has 2 wires as it cannot earth or the ECU will not get a feed. why dont you go to nissan and order a new one instead of looking around for a cheap second hand one that may even still be dodgy?

try unplugging your ECU water temp feed. on the top rad hose. if it runs fine just really rich maybe your temp sensor is dodgy. or it could be a problem with your AAC valve but that is unlikely as it doesnt do it when its hot.

i would say now from the extra info that you could have a dry joint in the AFM. mine did some of that drive fine then cut out for no good reason crap and it ended up being the AFM pins inside the unit had dry joins. i just reflowed the solder and now it hasnt missed a beat. try swappng AFMs with a mate if possible.

i think we need a little bit more info here.. are your iridiums gapped to .8? or higher? can you tell the difference between a missfire and a rough idle? if it is a missfire it will most probably be a coil pack. could be a plug too. just because the plug looks good doesnt mean it is good. will the engine rev over 2300RPM when it is playing up? if not it is most likely your AFM. could also be a boost or vac leak but it seems unlikely considering you say the problem is intermittent. a vac leak will cause a rough idle and possibly stalling depending how bad it is. any more accurate info will help us diagnose your problems

those "oil clearance strips" are called plastiguage from memory and are invaluable for measuring tolerances in your crank bearings etc. oh and the only socket i have ever shattered from a supposed "quality brand" was sidchrome. now i got a mix match of kc tools, am pro, kinchrome, stanley, minimax and the massivley expensive stahwille or however you spell it. dont skimp on tools and you wont have a problem oh and if you are planning on a torque wrench dont buy one of the ones with a big needle guage on it because they are so hard to use and the needles get bent and throw your readings out. get one of the ones that click once you reach the right torque.