Zoltarc

Offtopic but for the above engine: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolls-Royce_Merlin Length: 69 in (175.3 cm) Width: 29.8in (75.7 cm) Height: 41.2 in (104.6 cm)

What edge are you firing the igniter on? Rising or falling? Have you set them to constant duty or constant dwell? You say the CAS now has 6 pulse gear tooth. I assume this is now using a magnetic trigger? What edge are you triggering off? Just to be sure, does the ECU have a timing lock function?

Sweet sweet open diff... one wheel of fury.

Are your running direct fire or waste spark? If waste spark have you muddled the plug leads?

Assuming you are using a MAF sensor make sure it is plumbed in. Are you interfacing the E11v2 to the Nissan CAS or using a different trigger system? From Halwin open the Trigger Diagnostics page and make sure that your sensor counters are working OK. For a motronic 60-2 with cam home the "Trigger Count at last Home" should alternate between 57 and 117 for each revolution. I don't know what the Nissan CAS value is since I don't use it. If your trigger counters are NOT correct ECU can fire the engine on the correct cycle randomly but it will stall almost immediately after.

The total shifter assembly for a 2WD gearbox is 32839-71L00. The total assembly is shown as "32841" in the attachment. The shift boot (32862 in attachment) is 32862-V5001. However, how you get this part onto your already existing gear lever remains a mystery to me No responsibility taken if these part numbers are incorrect, always check with your local Nissan parts department first.

This is for R32 ATTESA-ETS 1 – Right front wheel speed sensor or circuit 2 – Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit 3 – Right rear wheel speed sensor or circuit 4 – Left rear wheel speed sensor or circuit 5 – ABS right front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit 6 – ABS front front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit 7 – ABS rear wheel actuator solenoid or circuit 8 – ABS actuator motor, motor relay or circuit 9 – ABS actuator relay or circuit 10 – ETS control unit power supply or circuit 11 – Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit 12 – Fore-and-aft G sensor 2 or circuit 13 – Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G sensor 2 14 – G sensor power supply 1 or circuit 15 – G sensor power supply 2 or circuit 16 – Lateral G sensor or circuit 17 – Air bleed connector or circuit 18 – ETS pressure switch or circuit 19 – ETS motor, motor relay or circuit 20 – ETS solenoid or circuit 21 – Throttle sensor or circuit 22 – ETS oil level switch or circuit 24 or continually ON or OFF – ETS control unit, ground or circuit

Worn/damaged plastic bush on the end of the gear lever perhaps?

It has the ATTESA-ETS system. Same as the GTR.

Start solenoid wire (R32 - thin blue) connected to the start motor/solenoid?

Most bicycle shops should be able to make up a throttle cable for you Make sure you get one with reasonable diameter and that one of the ends has a fitting that suits your throttle assembly. For example my race car uses a cylinder shape on the throttle assembly (see below) where as some have balls and others rods.

Aside from the obvious modifications needed to the sump are there any other modifications needed to convert an RB26 to a dry sump setup. Remove crank driven oil pump and replace with a blanking plate. I can only assume the primary feed can then be directed straight to where the oil filter normally sits via an adapter. Or does the blanking plate need to have a feed plug tapped into it? Do any pump holes inside the block or bearing caps need to plugged with the RB26? Is it necessary to scavenge the cam valleys? I don't believe so myself. If the oil feed to the head is restricted to stop pooling and the return paths enlarged this should negate the need to scavenge the head.

I use a Haltech E11v2 ECU on a 3S-GE with quad throttle bodies using a MAP sensor for load sensing. This causes two main problems. "Bouncing", oscillations or fluctuation's in the map signal, which is very obvious at idle and low dynamic range of the MAP sensor. To cure this problem firstly a vacuum tank was installed in the MAP sensor line to dampen the bouncing as much as possible. Then I designed a small circuit that would use a 'capture-and-hold' IC that samples the MAP sensor when the piston is creating maximum vacuum. That signal was then passed through a few signal conditioning op amps to try and 'expand' the signal to get back some dynamic range. Although the circuit worked well it was extremely difficult to calibrate. About a year ago the car changed ECUs to the Haltech E11v2. There is a useful software function that you can use to calibrate the MAP sensor where you say X manifold pressure is equal to Y volts. You can then scale your actual MAP sensor range accordingly to get your dynamic range back. This is what my circuit did but is now managed via the E11v2. While I believe the E11v2 can't use multiple MAP sensors it can use TPS_MAPXBARCORR where the TPS is the main load sensor and then references the MAP sensor using a 3D table for extra fuel correction. This is the opposite of what the Pectel system has. However in theory you could interface multiple MAP sensors to any ECU. If you arranged 1 MAP sensor per cylinder and then used a PIC micro controller that was aware of TDC for #1 or was interfaced to the timing pickup, you could sample each MAP sensor when the piston was creating the most vacuum and then output that signal to the ECU. A simpler arrangement could be sample and average. Use two or three MAP sensors, add the signals together and divide by the number of sensors. Then output that to the ECU.