eightsixboy

Yea but then you have to buy tyres, so thats atleast $400-800, so these are cheap. Why post crap like that in peoples sale threads. Nice wheels and price

1. Brand new just jap hardened tie rod ends, suit all nissans, 14mm type $110 2. Brand new just jap hicas lock bar $100 3. Bride low max copy seat with brand new rail This seat is basically brand new, bought it of a fellow SAU member, brand new rail was sourced from import monster, this is one of the better copies available, very nice seat. Will post some better pics tomorrow. Rail will suit r32 and 33's $600 4. Apexi el 2 gauges, mint condition no scratches. Includes Boost, water temp, oil temp and oil pressure. Boost gauge is mechanical, comes WITH control unit. 4 gauges in total. $550 Located in VIC

Ahhh double post

What ever you do dont buy the golf, buckets of s**t trust me. Go the mps, there are meant to be pretty good, I wouldn't buy anything other then a jap car.

Can sell for around 8-9k without the gauges and seat etc, throw some offers my way.

PM"D

Some more recent shots. I have tidied up the engine bay a fair bit since the last pics Should also ad that I have just done the cambelt and put some cam gears on a month ago.

I'll try and take some pics soon, mounted mine yesterday. Pretty straight forward job, just time consuming getting everything where you want it and cutting the lines was a bit of a bitch.

On the coilover itself, the centre nut on the strut top. Ill wait till i actually drive home and see if it is gone 100%.

Just went out to have a look again and found that the top nut wasnt super tight, tightened it a much as I could and took for a quick drive, seems all good now.

Still flirting with the idea of selling. Wheels are sold so willing to sell for around the $10k mark.

Replaced both links on the weekend and the knock is still there I noticed it happens more on suspension drop rather then compression, thinking it could be a coilover top mount or the coilover itself, there is pretty much nothing else it can be.

Sounds like a very decent price, very cheap for a window out job with repairs. A half decent window out job will easily be over 5k at most places, it all depends on how they get the car and what work is required, a car pre prepped will cost a lot less. The places where you see full resprays for like 3k arnt window out jobs, I work in the 'trade' and I have seen some poor paint jobs and great paint jobs and 3k wont get you much especially if you have repairs. It helps if you know someone as most shops will try to rip you off if your just a random. I would research this place or see some of his work and make sure he knows that if there is something not done right he has to fix it.

Wash of the whole area, run the car on stands and have a look and see if you can see where its coming from. It could be runing down from higher up, could be a waterpump or something from under the cam covers.

I dont see the appeal of Euro cars, there basically worse then any jap car but are twice the price. Its stupid how people think 'oh my car cost $500k so its better and I now am super cool', in actual fact its, 'oh wait i could have bought a car for 1/4 of the price, look better, handle better and not look like a tosser'. We have a Lambo gallardo at work at the moment and everyone said it was shit haha I know a guy my age who bought a R8 and I just lol'd and so did most of the people that know him. The fact is any euro will fall apart within 10 years when a jap car will still be considered new at that age, I still consider r34's pretty new, but you look at a 2000 Audi wtf lol Porche are a bit different IMO as they actually make there cars for the drivers as apposed to the mass made VW's and Audi's.

PROFEC SOLD Wheel still for sale.

If you want to mod a car dont buy a Subaru, as soon as you do anything more then a bigger muffler they almost always need a tune, for some reason afr's turn to shit. I used to be into the subies a few years back and they are just a pain in the ass compared to skylines to mod, plus they arnt really built with any real performance in mind, the B4's are meant to be a luxury sport sedan with nice interior and gentle handling. They are great cars but the motors are fragile when modded, i have seen countless ej's end up with piston slap or burnt rings, even just standard ones needing rebuild after they get to around 150,000 + km's. I think if you really like how it drives and the style go for it, just be prepared to get a tune if you get a cat back or boost it a little. $11,000 is about right for one, they seem to be in the $10-15k range.

I have this really annoying knock in my front suspension/front engine area, its not on all bumps or on any constant, just randomly. The noise sounds like the swaybar is clunking on the body or something like that, I have checked and it is clearing everything. This just started randomly a few weeks ago, I did a winton track day about a month ago and had no problems up there or when i got back so i dont thnk that has anything to do with it. I have had a look at length a few times this week but cant find anything worng. I have checked the following Swaybar links - drivers is rooted but the clunk is from the passeneger side and doesnt sound like a link, I would assume a swaybar balljoint link will have a less noticable knock. Rack - fine has no play Tie rods - no play Balljoints - top and bottom fine, tight like a tiger caster rods - have aftermarket with ball joints and they are fine upper arms - brand new hard race items Wheel bearing - feels tight Engine and gearbox mounts - fine, no splits or tears Lower contro arm - inner bushes feel fine I grabbed the whole strut and couldnt feel anything loose or any play in anything, this has really got me stumped, i have been over the whole car pretty much and have found nothing wrong. The annoying thing is that its random, I can go over bumpy roads and it feels nice and quite, then I might turn a corner with a slight bump and hear it. Any ideas?

Core isnt damaged so it should be fine, a lick of paint and you'll never know. Mine arrived yesterday Very happy with the quality of the kit, looks a million times better then the cheapo ones. A Z145 fits, checked it last night. As for mounting, on a 32 it looks pretty straight forward, head down to bunnings and make some brackets and mount it in the drivers guard, the bracket they supply is actually really good.

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunently that fittings the wrong way, I need a female m12 by 1.25 fitting. The block fitting is 1/8, same as my new pressure fitting on my guage, but the thread on my temp sensor is m12 by 1.25. I basically need a t-piece that has 1/8 male to the block, and 1 1/8 and 1 m12 by 1.25 female fittings. Its annoying that these arnt common, even ebay has failed to bring something up.

Im trying to find a t-piece fitting so i can run my aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauges. Pressure is fine as the sensor fits in the block, the temp is the issue as it uses a M12 by 1.25 thread. I went to enzed and they do nothing in M12 by 1.25, which is annoying as if they dont have anything wtf are you meant to do? Surely there is a place that sells or can make a fitting for me?

+1 looks very nice. What mods? Love those wheels to

Awesome thanks

What size oil filters will fit? Just bought a Z145 and realised that the thread on the sandwhich plate is prob different Mine is apparently in Syd, cant wait to get it, hopefully be fitting it friday night

Yea I saw the attacked brand rotors, I searched and there is no info at all on them so who knows where there made or the quality. I'm basically setting up the car for sprints, so mostly going to Winton. If I can do between 5-10 track days a year plus deca's I'll be happy.