eightsixboy

The +20 will be for the rear. Just buy a 3mm spacer if it only just touches the caliper, or depending on where on the caliper it touches you can shave/file a little of the caliper, but only if its hitting on a logo or something not important, I wouldnt really do it though. Just take the wheels of and measure the inner hub diameter of the wheel and the outer of the hub on the car, will be something like 66 and 73 mm. Spacers are Illegal so if you can sell the fronts and buy ones with better offset.

Theres a paint place in ferntree gully on burwood hwy that make decent paint in a can, only prob is matching the paint if its not a factory color. You front bar looks fixable but you should paint the whole thing, you can buy stuff to fix bumpers, i used it when i did my hr31 bumper and it covered up the massive scrape and once sanded you would never no it was there. Paint $50 2 cans primer $15 bumper fix stuff $20 sand paper and blocks $30 clear $ 15 You could do your bumper and skirts for around $100-150, if the paint match is half decent then it should turn out pretty good. Imo the bumper isnt even that bad, maybe just have a crack at the skirts first before you try the bumper and see how it comes up.

I'm 99% sure the 20 and 25 clutchs/flywheels are interchangable. 26 no as they are a different typr of clutch setup.

Bumpski. Now on fleebay http://cgi.ebay.com....=STRK:MESELX:IT

I have been running 9 +22 on my 32 gtst and they fit really well. Either a 8.5 or 9 with an offset of around +20-30 will be fine, theres alot of decent wheels of out there in those sizes. I have some wheels for sale, chuck us a pm or check my sale thread if your keen. PS please dont buy those vs kf works

just picked up some 17's with re01r and re01 tyres. Obviously the re01r is a proper semi as the tread wear is like 140 and the re01 is 180. Is the re01 the same as the re001? Its definently not the same tread pattern as the adrenelin but I cant find the re01 listed except the re01r? Is the re01 on older version of the adrenelin?

Thanks but no thanks, wanna get some 17's for the track.

There illegal fullstop I'm pretty sure, even the hub centric ones are illegal.

The problem with the hub centric ones is if you go any smaller then around 25mm you have to cut a little of your old studs, unless you wheels have cut outs or extra holes for you old studs to stick through. s Either way spacers are dodgy and illegal and cause to many probs, I had nothing but dramas on my 31 even with hub centric spacers.

I might be getting some 17's for the track so for me having road legal slicks doesn't really matter. The nitto's do look good.

bump still for sale. keeping the car but still selling the wheels, will consider swaps and cash adjustment for 33 gtr wheels or similar

Buy the Hardrace 32 gtr ones of justjap, thats what i have in my gtst and there awesome quality, they were less the $150 from memory.

So I see. Either way IMO whether the engine stays stock or get modded they both have downsides, getting a stock engine engineered is alot of money for very little gain. And if you mod the 25 it makes it illegal and the engineers cert pointless, you will have to get it back to stock and re check anyways if/when you get defected. Thats the prob with the 32, it came with a little 2lte engine, if only they had designed a late model 32 with a series 1 25 we would all be laughing.

I would buy re55's but its a little of my price range at the moment, same with the toyo's. I guess out of all the 'cheaper' semi's I just wanna know whats the best for the track. I currently have 595 SS and I'm a little worried that they are going to fail pretty bad on the track. I have 2 sets of wheels so having dedicated track wheels is not an issue.

Yea theres no ways its that cheap in vic to get something like a engine conversion engineered, there seems to be a huge difference or leniency from state to state, its pretty annoying, friggin nanny state When I had my ae86 I wanted to engineer the 4age but it was far to much effort and this was like 5 years ago when the were only just cracking down, never got pulled over so never worried about it. The way the laws are going here any mods full stop will be illegal soon.

If it were that easy down here I would wack a 25 in mine and get it done. I think at a min its $600-800 just to do the cert, even then they might not pass the car. There pretty strict about that stuff, I'm surprised its so cheap in QLD. I would guestimate it would cost all up around 3.5-5k to get it done properly. Engine $1000-1500 Gearbox $800-1000 Tailshaft $300-500 Cert$800 Plus whatevers needed for the cert, might need bigger brakes. Not to mention sorting out the wiring and ecu and making it epa friendly.

Toyo R888 review Why would they be not suited to a skyline? A 32 isnt that heavy, atleast compared to a gtr its not.

I guess either of the tyres would do as they will be more suited to track work then my current tyres, I just wanna get the best thats available out of these road/track tyres. Honestly I wouldnt bother with the true semi's as my car is not serious enough to need them and they are hella expensive. Just spoke to a mate at work who said you only get a certain amount of heat cycles from them, I guess thats why alot of people sell semi's with 50% left on them.

I'm not sure what 20's you've been driving but my current setup is on par with what i had in my 34, similar power and power delivery, feels quicker and prob is due to a lighter car. Even my mate who is not into skylines at all thought the 34 was to laggy and that was just a highflow. It all depends on how well the 20 is setup, people tend to put turbos that are to big on thats the main prob, a 25 highflow for example is way to big for a 20 yet people still do it, yet a 2530 will have way less lag and make similar power. The main difference is the power levels, a 25 with the same lag as say a 20 will make alot more power, a 2530 powered 20 is like a 3076 powered 25, 230rwkw vs 260rwkw+.

If your gonna mod the 25 then yea ofcourse it'll be better. You can mod any engine without if been defectable, there is no way a cop can defect you for a highflow of your standard turbo, same with ecu just get nistune and its still the factory ecu. I just think if your going to the extreme of getting a stock motor engineered you might as well try get it engineered with some more power while your there. If getting it engieered is going to cost say 2k on top of the engine conversion + gearbox + tailshaft + wiring you could have more power, less hassles and save alot of $$$ with a 20. Stock 25 will be 130-140rwkw? A midly modded 20 with a not to laggy setup will have 170-180rwkw with stock injectors and afm, will cost 2k max. Even the stock turbo is good for 140rwkw and they are far from laggy.

Are you running spacers? If so chuck them in the bin. If not its prob tyres or a rim, more then likely a tyre especially if you say there not great tyres. Do the wheels fit the hubs correctly? You will need hub spacers if they dont, otherwise your wheel studs are taking all the load instead of the hub. The alluminium ones are like $30 of ebay. Theres so many things that can cause a vibration, flat spots, inproperly balanced wheels, no hub rings, buckled wheel etc.

Going to be hitting the track soon and want some really good semi slicks. I've had ku36's before and rate them well but I've heard they tend to fade a bit on the track. I really want something that will last more then a few hot laps and fade. The tyres I'm looking at are Falken RT615 - Heard they arnt as soft as a ku36 Federal 595 RSR - meant to be pretty awesome Toyo R888 - Havent heard much about them Theres obviously a heap more out there but these are the ones that I've heard the most about. So which of these would be best? I wanna spend around $300-350 per tyre max. The car will be only minimal street use from now on so not to fussed about tyre life or noise. Cheers.

Is your car a factory color? I wouldnt really recommend painting it yourself, even with a 100% paint match you will never get the proper gloss or finish like the factory paint. If you can do the prep work your self it should only cost around $200-300 to get them done by a shop. I painted my front bar on my hr31 and it came up good but no where near as good as a pro job, and i've painted cars before so I know the prep work was spot on. If a shop is trying to charge you more then $400 they obviously cbf doing the job, its f**k all work to paint 2 side skirts. I got my skirts and pods painted at Donnelons in Kew, they did an awesome job and was a very good price.

I was in the same boat as you but I ended up just getting the Blitz kit, its a friggin quality cooler. What you could do is do what I did on my 31, buy a genereic return flow cooler and buy a piping kit that has as many different sized and shaped pipes in it. I ended up buying a kit for a STI and modding it to fit. I bought a XR6 cooler but thats prob not suited to a 32 as the piping went behind the passenger headlight. If your happy cut and lip pipes all day its prob the only way you'll get a decent cheap return flow. The one Performance guru has looks ok, with piping kit it might cost you $200-300 all up.

I wouldnt imagine it been cheap to have it legal, plus you'll prob still get defected even if it is enginered. Ring around and see who will engineer it and how much. I would assume a brake upgrade at a min will be required. So if your keeping the engine stock whats the point in the conversion? I cant really see having a little bit of extra torque been worth all the hassle not to mention the $$$. It would be easier to mod the 20 and have some decent power and still have it look standard. Just my 2 cents