eightsixboy

LOL at 8-9k, the guy would be making a fair profit from that i would assume. A decent highflow will make 250-260 on a 25 pretty easy. Highflow $1500 max Injectors $500-700 Intercooler $500 ECU $1000-1500 including tune Z32 AFM $400 Boost controller $30 Clutch $400 Fuel pump $200 Max it would cost is around 5k, would be cheaper with second hand parts. Link arnt that great from what I've heard, a power fc or nistune would be way better, nistune if probably the best option due to it been undetectible. Theres no point spending big money on a turbo setup if your only chasing 250rwkw.

Try do a search and find people who have lowered with a certain spring type to see how low it might sit. just buy some king lows or super lows if you dont want coilovers

Awesome Just wait until you get more power and new tyres, should be friggin quick.

Just because they lock up doesnt make them crap tyres. Plus on a skid pan there is less grip then the street, I was surprised how crap the grip was at last deca on the skid pan and the wang. I did brake tests with these tyres and even in semi wet conditions they were really good. There not the evo 595s which are the cheaper ones, maybe you were thinking of them? I've had ku36's before and on the street there is not much difference between them and the 595 ss, different story for the track but Im scoring them for street use only. If you consider a ku31 a 7/10 a 595 ss is easy better then a ku31, i had them on my aw11 and they wernt that great.

Check your rad cap, could be faulty. Whats you coolant concentration like? Sounds like its boiling. I wouldnt trust your factory temp gauge either there not exactly acurate.

Federal 595 SS 235/40/18 Dry 9/10 Wet 7/10 Very good tyres, looses traction well unlike my previous tyres which were unpredictable. Wet grip is very good, was quite surprised. Not sure if there good enough for the track but I'm gonna give them a go at deca.

Ad as much castor as you can with either you stock arms or aftermarket, that will help, maybe try swaybars and a camber kit on the front. Gtr's will always understeer especially corner entry no matter what you do, just depends on how hard you push it into a corner.

Exactly why I would never take my car to a bob jane similar places. Most of them have no idea at all wtf there doing.

I think if you expect to have alot of mods and drive the car alot then your asking for it. Thats why I bought the car I bought. Has power and handling but looks stock under the hood. The poeple that have big turbo setups or crazy shinny mods would not drive them very much. Plus you have to know where to avoid driving, i've purposely not gone out just so the risk is lower just in case you get that one cop who wants to defect you for handbrake clicks or washer fluid lol.

BP is the only fuel company that garranties there octane rating. Shell from what I've heard is to hit and miss, God only knows where Caltex get there fuel. The way i see it they are always a few cents of each other so why risk using anything other then BP

Plus the fact that a 2l six has really small combustion chambers compared to a 2l 4 banger, thats why cams work so good on most 1.6-2l 4 cylinders, they have a bigger area per cylinder and by adding cams you can maximisse the air intake and flow, where as on a 2l six the stock cams are actually pretty big for the area, so yea only a 240 degree cam but compared to a 2l 4 banger its like 260-270 degree cams. The bigger you go with cams your only going to move the rev range up even higher then what a 20 is already good for, thats why cam gears are good, you can bring on boost earlier and gain a little power while still have a broad power band of 4-8k while keeping stock cams. And cams arnt cheap, atleast the brand name ones anyways, so why waste money on a mod that most people will tell you is a waste of time. As far as head work goes, sure while the head is of clean it up but just dont go to nuts with it. Once again the gains will be very small from head work on a 20. I think you'll find the casting isnt that bad and it prob flows pretty good for the design of the head

Forgot to mention these are like $3500 RRP just for the wheels.

Hi all, car might be sold without the wheels so putting up an EOI for them. I only just bought these of russman and they are in fantastic condition, one wheel has a few little chips but it is very minor and there is NO rash at all. They are 18 by 9 +22, they will fit basically any skyline, they fit the 32 without scrubbing on the front or rear with just a minor guard lip. The tyres are Federal 595 SS and are around 90% tread. Looking for $2800 which hella cheap for some aweome wheels with decent tyres. Location Vic. Can post if buyer organises.

Putting in bigger cams doesnt automatically make the engine have more power, the motor will end up been over camed and if anything might make less power, I have never really heard of anyone making decent gains on a 20 with cams, even the crappy pon cams, most people who have tried end up going back to standard ones as they are heaps better. Cam gears yes thats a cheap mod that will give you some decent gains/response, highly recommened that on a 20. If you read the thread nismoid mentioned all info is in there.

Have they been cut? Are you sure there only lows and not a custom spring or super lows? Something doesnt seem right if there only lows and there not captive. I had mass issues when i got some custom Aurora springs, they wernt even close to been captive. A stiff spring that will also lower the car more then 25mm is never going to be captive.

My bad not sure why I thought E85. Either way I think Roy's setup is a great example of what can be achieved with a 20, I'm actually surprised it made that much on 98, guess the 20's arnt that bad after all . 20's never really seem to throw a leg out of bad, prob due to there bore/stroke ratio making them have less strain on the rods.

Bumpski

Good luck getting 280 rwkw out of a rb20. Roy has done it but i'm pretty sure that was on E85 and he has spent alot of time and money trying different things. As Nismoid said get a wrecker rb20 and get a td06 and you should see an easy 260. I have been thinking along the same path as you in regards a built 20 but there really is no point as the gains are minimal compared to just getting a wrecker motor. A built motor might give you an extra 20 kw but for the extra 5-8k its hardly worth it. For 5k you could easily go a 25 and a 3076r which will easily make 280 and wont be laggy at all compared to a 20 with the same power. Dont get me wrong I love 20's and plan on keeping mine a 20 for awhile but once you start wanting more then around 230-240 it starts getting very expensive on a 20.

There was a Ford exploder on the eastern yesterday, was black and only had lights mounted on the windscreen and rear window. He went ripping through traffic with his siren on, i had to look twice as you dont expect that coming at you when you hear a siren.

Try Craig from Trackside in Bayswater. He did an awesome job on my 34, took his time and did it properly unlike 90% of places out there, he does alot of old classics and track cars so he knows his stuff. Lol a mate at work took his 4WD to a place and they actually asked him what that bar was that runs from his diff to the body, there are some shocking places out there so be carefull who you take it to.

Really i always thought the 98-00 ones were the best, a guy at work has a 02 and the interior and build quality seems worse then an 00, at least interior wise. I guess your mate had bad luck with the engine, where I used to work we did Subaru and I never saw a rooted engine in the 4 years i was there, i did see a few that had piston slap but i guess it depends on what you consider munched. I personally love Subaru's but would never buy one if I wanted crazy power or to be a track weapon.

People have to remember that the rexes arnt like skylines, they dont take well to engine mods. You see heaps of standard rexes doing up to 300,000 but modded ones rarely last long with big power. But in standard form or even just slightly boosted they are still quick. One of my mates has a stock 99 and it blitzed me 3 times in a row 0-100 in my 34, and I had semis on the back with 230 odd. The traction they have is insane compared to a rwd car. I think as a daily that can do multiple things well a wrx is perfect, besides doing c.v boots and joints every 50,000 they wont really break unless thrashed.

I'm still not 100% sure what I'll be doing engine wise. My motor seems in good health and might last for ages. I will prob be leaning towards the 2.2 just because its a fresh motor, I also dont like the feeling of paying money for a motor that might only last a few months. I guess when you compare the 2.2 to say rebuilding the standard 20 its not bad at all, but whether its worth it compared to buying a $500 wrecker 20 I dont know

I think if you just drive normally and dont do stupid stuff on the road you wont have a problem. One thing that worries me is stuff like loosing traction when you cant help it ie tram tracks or shitty roads, I remember a few years ago in my ae86 at knox taking of from the lights on stud road and I couldnt get traction no matter what i did, was a combination of shitty worn to a shine road and rubbish tyres and wet conditions, if they can pin you for something so little its just gotten stupid, theres a huge difference between doing a burnout and 1 second of spinning wheels. What I really steuggle to understand is why VIC has taken this nanny approach, I dont see what there trying to achieve. People are going to do stupid stuff on the road no matter what the law is, punishing you so harshly for very minor things is really over the top. Have a look at China's road toll, makes ours look like nothing.

R32 GTST 18 by 9 +22 all round. Lipped guards front and rear, -3 camber roughly front via camber arms and stock rear adjusted fully. Rubs very slightly on the rear, front is fine. IMO the best fitment on a 32 without pumping guards.