eightsixboy

haha lol, is it really a 75db limit? What car is going to be under that..... who goes and buys around there and expects no noise, retards.

Just buy some front camber arms, there cheap enough and they will more then likely be rooted and require replacement anyways. I thought you'd get more then 1 deg on the rear? I adjust my rear to max neg to squeeze my wheels in and there was a huge difference in camber when fully adjusted.

It wont be the release bearing as when the pedal is released its not doing anything. If the noise is when clutch released it means it could be gearbox/drivetrain related. Where did you get the reco from? I hope you didnt get it from a certain place in Kilsyth, I had dramas with a reco'd box, was worse then the one with the shattered bearing in it. PM me if you think its the same place. I would take it back to the place and check everything while the box is out, should have done that when it was out before ie replacing the relese bearing and clutch.

It could be a few things. The rack could be the issue, where is there play? From the rack ends or tie rod ends? Have you checked your c.v joints? That can cause a vibration if there rooted. Just do a few full lock circles and listen for and loud clicking from the front. Also just check all you front bushes, the top camber arms are prone to wearing, mine were causing a knock on left hand turns. Wheel bearings can have play in them but they are normally noisy before they get to that stage.

One thing is the bleed screw, you have to be able to bleed it from there, everytime I have bled mine there has been a crap load of air from that bleed screw. What did you do to reco the radiator? Sounds like it could either be a blockage or even a massive air lock.

1st of why bother? 2nd One important thing missing is even if you have a compressor wheel welded in the bov pipe its not rotating, having air pass through a fixed comp wheel with do nothing. I'm pretty sure flutter has alot to do with air been forced onto a rotating comp wheell which cant slow down due to exhaust gases keeping it moving, even if it were rotating I'm sure it would sound nothing like you want it to. Credit for going to the effort but I'm sure if it were that easy then hks or whoever would have made one by now. Whats so good about flutter anyways? I thought that was only cool on vl's and other hektic cars.

My old hr31 and my r32 both do it, the 31 was worse when cold but that was still standard ecu, it used to have a flat spot when taking of when cold under 2k would also cough and splutter abit whih was annoying as after diving for about 1 min would have gone completely, even my 32 does it very slightly when cold. After I have let it idle for 30-60 secs its fine, but you can still tell the difference in throttle response between when its cold and when its warm. I would just replace the plugs and o2 sensor regardless of any issues and go from there. You have to remember that these engines are getting pretty old, whether its caused by a faulty sensor or leaking inlet gasket it could be anything age related.

Pics?

Yes pics please. I'm surprised you can run the 20 head on a 25 block.

Awesome let me know how it goes and your opinions of it. What turbo are you using?

So doing stupid shit like that is paying respect to people who died doing stupid shit. There obviously missing a few brain cells going by the cars they drive, this just confirms it.

Dont waste your time with cams, I have never read or heard of anyone getting any improvement from them on a rb20. Cam gears is a definent yes. I noticed a difference even untuned on my hr31. I cant wait to get my 32 re tuned with them on. I've been told you can expect around 5-10 kw gain.

It depends on what fuel your running and power goals for the planned 25. Either way if you get gtr injectors and need bigger later you can always sell them as there are always people wanting them. Just make sure you get them cleaned first . I would go for some 600cc injectors if there not to expensive compared to GTR injectors, they should be big enough even on E85.

Man thats serious bs. I cant believe he would get someone else to do the work. Theres nothing worse then been f**ked around by panel shops. Similar thing happened to me with my 34, had to take it back to get stuff re painted as they abviously thought I wouldnt notice the inperfections, and they were an expensive prestige panle shop to, lucky I didnt have to pay anything. I just hope at best this thread can serve as a warning to people to be very carefull with panel shops, theres so many dodgy ones out there it makes me sick.

True True. Do you think a higher comp ratio would make that much difference? If its just a matter of shaving the head a little and a thinner gasket I'm surprised if no one has done it before on a 20.

Yea I was also thinking of raising comp a little. But surely it isnt as easy as just getting a thinner head gasket? I wonder why they made comp lower then the 25? You would expect it to be the other way around, the rb20 needs all the help it can get really.

Oh ok hairy muff.

Thats awesome, if this issue get resolved and some good reviews come through on here I might be tempted to buy later on. Dont wanna drag away from the original topic but where are you meant to get replacement rotors from? Didnt see them listed seperately on justjap.

No way there gonna fit without alot of body work.. I have 9 +22 all round and even with lipped guards and camber arms up front with max camber front and rear they rub. A 10 +18 will sit out a further 17mm and 9mm less inner clearence, 17mm is a fair bit, on the rear yea it would be do able but on the front its gonna rub on everything, wont even clear the upper arms i think. I trial fitted my old BBS 9 +35 with a 10mm slip on on the fronts before I got my new wheels and there was almost no clearance between the tyre and upper arm on the front, so another 6mm in is pushing it i think.

This happened to a guy a trade school a few years ago in his 34. He welded it and due to the heat warping/moving everything he had trouble getting the stub axles back in. Why weld it when you can just re shim it, guy at work did it to his 33 and its basically a locked diff when over shimmed.

Can I ask why the fittings color matters?

What pads are in there now? You might want to get your discs machined while there of, depending on how worn/lipped they are. You cant go wrong with bendix, you shouldn't have any dramas with noise, or qfm. There all much the same for street use, I've used both bendix and qfm and never had problems with noise.

Wooops double post.

Unless you want to spend a small fortune dont bother. Getting power out of a n/a isnt cheap. Theres a guy on the r31 forums who had a worked n/a rb26 and spent a crap load, over 25k i think. He only got 170-180 rwkw. Considering what else you can do with that sorta money makes it a pretty stupid excercise. Not saying it would cost anywhere near that but that just gives you an idea, it'd cost over 5k to get a decent n/a motor imo. If you have a 34 you really need a turbo, there to heavy for n/a. Only cars close 1 tonne are good n/a.

Ok thanks, thats exactly what I wanted to know.