eightsixboy

So would maybe just some decent head be best for some better response and more mid/top end? Either way I wanna pull the head of and get it cleaned while the motor is out, replace all the hoses and seals.

Says its fully assembled from sump to rockers . i hope so lol, not paying 5k for bits i can get myself.

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/category9_1.htm Prob should have added the link. It comes with ported head, rb26 rods. Pretty much a bolt in option which is why i like the idea so much. Only other option is if i got just the head and put it on the 2.0 block. Even then the whole motor package is good value as it might cost around 2.5-3k to get the std motor done with ported head, std bearings and balance etc. So an extra 2k is pretty good for forgies and stroked to 2.2.

Is there a noticable amount of torque and response compared to a normal 20? Another option is there race ported head. Could just slap that on and see how she goes, might help with mid-top end power. Theres no point in looking at other cranks as I might as well just buy the 2.2 motor as it already has that, atleast that motor will have some sort of warranty incase of a failure.

I would love to go a 30 or 25 but 5k is about as much as i wanna spend. Can do a 25 for that easy but I would have to change to much stuff, theres the gearbox and wiring issues, not to mention driveshaft shortened, new turbo, injectors etc etc, I really cbf as atleast with a 2.2 I can reuse all my current gear, worst case is bigger turbo. Same with a 25/30, 5k just for the block is pretty expensive, will end up been a 10k setup, not really worth it as once again the gearbox will be an issue. I like the idea of a 2.2 because of price and its a straight forwared job with the bonus of it then been a 2.2 and a fully rebuilt motor. As you can tell i really cbf with modding mounts and wiring, I'd prefer to keep the lid on the can of worms. The way I see it the 2.2 is a good compromise, but after seeing alot of wrecker 20's running big power for years it makes me wonder if you really need to spend that much when a $500 engine will prob do, or in my case re use my engine and just do new bearings and a clean.

Hi all, I am contenplating buying the RB20 2.2 stroker engine from Lewis Engines at the end of the year instead of freshining up my rb20 as planned. Before I get the usual oh just buy a 25, I really cbf doing that and since a 25 would be unknown condition plus i would have to change turbo's etc its not worth it when I can have a fully built motor with only .25 cc difference, not to mention technially its still a rb20 so its 'legal'. I just wanna get some opinions, mainly is it worth doing, compared to spending less then half the $$$ and just doing a freshen up on bearings and stuff. Another option is there race ported head which is 1.1k. I have no problems with my current motor except noisy lifters on startup which isnt a big deal to pull them apart and clean, so with new bearings and a clean it should last another 100,000km easy. I'm currently running 219rwkw with a std rb20, just the usual bolt ons and have yet to have it retuned with cam gears, so i would assume 225-230rwkw is achievable with my current setup and a retune. With the 2.2 I would expect atleast 240rwkw, depends if my current gcg turbo is capable, unsure of exact specs of it. I would also assume the response would be alot better and more low down torque. Either way I wanna pull the motor out and freshen up the engine bay, so just have to decide what to do engine wise. Cheers.

Yea always be carefull in doncaster haha, they love doncaster road. There must be a speed camera there atleast 3-4 times a week easy, always in the same spot. Its funny how the cops are never around when you want though, i was coming home last night around 8 ish just minding my own buisness when this fag in his crummy door starts tailgating me for about 800m, when he realised i couldnt be bothered leaving him in my wake he 'hoons' past me (slowly at that lol), he was easy doing 100+ in a 60 zone, man i would have lol'd if he got done .

How loud is the noise? If its just a soft click i wouldnt even worry about it. If its a louder clunk then it could be upper arms worn. I had a clunk when turning left only on bumps, turned out to be my upper arms worn out. Noises are really hard to diagnos, only this you can do is get under the car with a pry bar and check for movement in the bushes and joints, being a r32 most of the stuff is prob worn out by now, by the time a car gets to 20 years old all the bushes need doing really, I have an exploded rear subframe bush, was wondering wtf the sticky stuff was and then i found out there silicone filled .

SOLD

Any news?

What is wrong with this state fark me. All the deaths on the road arnt caused by 'hoons' , its all the retards out there that can't drive. All the near accidents i've almost had by people who are shit drivers, deaths from 'hoons' are minimal imo, there mostly retards dragging on princess hwy in there holdens. If little old granny gets wheel spin in her corolla taking of from the lights in the wet will she get her car impounded lol, they really need to find other ways of making money then cracking down on a such a nonsense law. Sure get all those dick heads in there crummy doors of the road but isnt all this a little to strict, whats all this going to achieve? All i can see happening is alot of angry people taking it out on cops.

I'm pretty sure there was a guy on here who had problems with one of the 'cheaper' upgrade kits. He had problems with the caliper mounting bracket expanding and contracting from the heat and snapped one of the bolts, ended up f**king his wheel in he process. I'm surprised they didnt just give you a replacement disc, prob not justjaps fault as they are normally very good with customer service, I would definently be calling them back and demanding either a full refund or a new disc, your well within your right to do so, I to would be highly pissed of if this happened to me.

They would of been bigger due to them being old. You dont want to big a gap on a turbo engine, can potentially blow out the spark and cause a misfire. Around. 8 is good.

I think it all comes down to prefernce. I personally didnt like having a set height with normal springs. So once you have them you cant do anything but live with how it sits. Where as with coilovers if you wanna do a track day just jack her up and lower and tweak away, and for day to day driving you can raise it another 10mm or whatever. To be honest i wasnt that happy with my bilsteins, when i had kyb agx's on my ae86 they were awesome, i reckon they would be a better option then bilsteins, atleast they have adjustability for bump and rebound. Anyways the wheel specs look spot on though.

Join the r31 skyline club. Tons of info on there about this.

woops double post

Why buy bilsteins and kings when teins are around the same price. I could be wrong but i'm pretty sure a mate at work got his teins for around $1400-$1800 brand new for a full set, they wernt the lower model either, they were the shock adjustable ones, he got them from some place in the uk from memory. I really am against conventional spring and shock setups compared to coilovers, they just dont get the results or have any height adjustability. When i wanted springs for my hr31, unless i wanted stock spring rates you couldn't get a spring that was captive ie legal and or lowered anywhere enough that made it worth doing. I ended up getting non captive springs which were friggin rubbish. I also had bilsteins before with stock spings and after with the lowered springs and they wernt that great, not stiff at all and they didnt even have bump or rebound adjust and there friggin expensive to boot. As I mentioned before, unless your car is 100% straight, you wont get a 100% level car, which atleast with coilovers if you have any issues (might only be like 5-10mm) atleast you can adjust it. Plus you can always get coilovers with softer springs, my mate i mentioned his teins came with 4kg all round which is perfect for a street car. Up to you but i think your wasting your money on a conventional spring and shock setup, especially if its like $1500 for that setup, decent coilovers can easily be had for that amount.

More pics

+1 turbo tech.

Holly crap those rails look down right dangerous roy.... Nice driving though

If your thinking of modding it then forget about it. All subies have pretty weak drivelines, there not like our bullet proof skylines. Plus they dont really respond well to mods imo especially comepared to the rb or sr. The also have piston slap issues due to the boxer design, anything over 150,000kms i wouldnt even bother. If you want something different maybe go a toyota of some kind, maybe a chaser or something.

The b4s are ok. I used to work on them. There not quicker then a wrx, dont let the twin turbo fool you. It was designed more for better torque then outright power. Homestly i wouldnt bother. Youll get bored of it pretty quickly. They are a nice car though. It will be realiable and comfy but thats about it.

I would be checking plugs and coils first. If your smelling fuel it could be a lack of spark. I would start ignition side first and elimimate some things, its prob coils and or plugs, pretty common on rbs for coils to die.

Bump. Yea loving the car I actually really like the wheels, more just testing the waters to see if i can sell em, would love some xd9's.

JDM concept are meant to be good, but they seem to be a bit more expensive them some other places. Those look like r34 gtr wheels in your link. You should be able to go wider on the rear with a 34, 9 +30 sounds perfect for the front though. A guy that works near me has cr kai's on his 34, look like 9.5 or 10's on the rear and they fit pro. http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/index.php?option=com_jdm&p=detail&cid=34 18 X 8.5 - $500 per wheel [5-100, 5-114.3 +30, +32, +37, +38, +43] 18 X 9.5 - $520 per wheel [5-100, 5-114.3 +12, +20, +30, +38] 8.5 +30 and 9.5 +20 or +30 should sit flush.