eightsixboy

Why are you running 5 splitfires and one standard? I'd be chucking the standard coil and finding another spltfire.

Dont buy an STI, unless you like understeer and the sound of a constant misfire. I vote for 33 GTR. Not to much more then a 34 but alot more potential. Nothing wrong with a GTT though, I had one and it was great. Just dont get red buy a white or silver as the color should actaully last and not show scratches. Best option would be a nice r32 GTR. You should be able to get a really mint one for the same price as a cheapish r33 GTR.

Yea Ive seen some poorly made ones out there. I have even had some cheaper cam gears color fade from red to poo fade red in less then a month. I think its more trial and error, even the HKS 3 spoke ones were renowned for slipping. I'm fitting my new cam gears this weekend, i'll see how they go. I have had these before and had no problems. If i had a rb26 or a rb25 then i prob wouldnt risk it but 20's are so cheap im not to fussed if the motor let go , gives me an excuse to go 2.2 stroker or 25

Bump.

Yea easy for that cash. Another option would be xd9's, they look better imo and are cheaper. Try hawthorn tyre power as they do good prices on work wheels. Also keep a look out on importmonster as they always have really nice 2nd hand wheels coming in, could save yourself a fair bit buying 2nd hand.

When you have coilovers you are replacing the standard springs with new ones which are part of the coilover, the height adjustment is made by adjusting the height of where the spring sits. Coilovers are the way to go for sure. Do not waste your time with lowering springs as you will never get the ride height the same from side to side. I had major issues with my hr31 getting the ride height ok and even then is was shit with lowering springs. As for wheel specs it all depends on how much you wanna spend, most cheaper wheels only have certain offsets and widths available. On a r34 you should be able to go a 9 +30 all round easy.

Plz search as there has been a million threads on this. But to answer you questions a r33 turbo will make around 180 rwkw and a highflowed r33 around 230 rwkw. But there are much better options out there then a r33 setup.

I have never had a problem with 'cheap' cam gears, even though there 1/3 the price on the bramd names. I think with items that are complex and require quality parts like a turbo you shouldnt really gamble. Im sure the kando dynamics turbos are good but the kkr and other runbish i wouldnt put on my car even ir it were for free.

F**k me sorry for bringing up an oldish thread but who the f**k pays 7k for a retrim on a crappy commodore friggin hell, the car wouldnt even be worth that lol

Rear tyres are also Maxxis not goodyears

Yea my bad, only pics of my car that kinda show the wheels, will do asap

Genuine BBS wheels, 18 by 8 +35 and 18 by 9 +35 Tyres are goodyear on the front 225/40/18 and 235/45/18 on the rear and have about 50-60% tread left. EOI at this stage as i'm thinking of getting some xd9's. No gutter rash, in very good nick just a few minor marks here and there. I have a 10mm slip on for fronts, sits pretty much perfect on my 32. Offers over $1500

Its not a skyline so its ok I think with the 20's you have to have a compromise between power and response, nothing you can do about the lag and as roy said it can be an advantage having less torque, with a good turbo setup and been able to have you foot planted mid corner and still getting traction is a good thing, just maybe not as fun on the street.

Wow 10 +18 I'm not that brave haha. I have a fair amount of camber on the rear, car isnt crazy low either. The guards are lipped already so if inner clearance is fine then should be sweet Cheers.

Hi all, I'm thinking of selling my bbs wheels and getting some xd9's. I'm looking at trying to fit the 10 +38 on the rear, currently the rear has 9 +35 so the 10 will stick out an extra 10mm which should be ok but i'm more concerned with inner clearance as they will sit in an extra 18mm. Has anyone fitting 10's to the rear of a r32 gtst? I already have lipped guards on the rear and will do the same for the front.

If your on a budget and not chasing a lot of power then just keep the standard turbo on the car, not going to gain anything by putting on a cheap turbo and running 10psi. Dont bother with a mines ecu as there rubbish, i have never heard of one actually having a decent 'tune' on them. I would just a front mount, boost controller, exhaust and a tune. You should be able to get around 180-190rwkw easy with a 25 while still keeping the standard turbo, injectors and afm. If you go a front mount get a return flow, they may be more expensive but it saves you cutting up your car and a return flow cooler is legal. Spend money on a decent tune, nistune would be perfect and at least you can keep your standard ecu. I personally would stay well away from the cheap ebay turbos, for the same or fractionally more money you can get your standard turbo highflowed by hypergear and atleast you know it will do the job and not shit itself, but unless your chasing more then 200rwkw dont bother upgrading. I would be doing this. 1.Exhaust $500-1000 2.Boost controller Turbo tech $30 best cheap one on the market 3.Intercooler Return flow $700 4.Tune $850-1000 5.Fuel pump $300 standard might be fine though Will be safe and reliable and what i would consider cheap considering the gains.

Yea i might have to replace my caster arms as there the pillow ball type and they dont look like they are that new.

Hmmm ok, i always thought the inlet manifolds on the 20's were shit, maybe i was thinking of the redtop or something. Just weird how you rarely see a 20 make more then 230-240rwkw, i know not wanting to put a massive turbo on is a big reason due to lag but if the std inlet is not a restrition then whats holding these motors back? 25's seem to make more power easier, mate at work has almost 300rwkw with a unopened motor, just a 3076 (i think) and the usual supporting mods, i know been a 2.5 over a 2 littre helps but still. Yea sounds weird if the 2535 is running out of puff after only 6.5k, should be good almost to redline. I think even the smaller 2530's are good till about 7k then they fall of. Might have something to do with the cams, your not running cam gears are you?

Got my hard race camber arms and jjr hicas lock bar, will take some pics on the weekend when installing. i must say the hard race camber arms looks awesome compared to the jjr, not that the jjr look bad but the hard race look really well made, cant wait to install them.

Mad, cant wait to get it

pm'd

I am just guessing, ill actually have a proper look tonight, prob closer to 3.5-4k. Definently all in by around 4k, but as with any rb20 nothing really happens regardless of aftermarket turbo before about 4.5k. Its comes down to tune aswell, i know that once i get cam gears and a retune with a decent tuner then i'll prob gain maybe 5rwkw and be even better in the lag department. I don't know the exact specs on my tubro as i bought the car with the work already done but i'm guessing its prob got the same response as a standard rb25 turbo, feels somewhere in between the vg30 and a standard rb20 turbo. Either way i think that unless this guy wants to spend mega money on the 20 a hks 2530/2535 or the 3071 is prob best, no way your gonna get around 260rwkw with standard inlet and on 98ron, i'm prob wrong lol but 230 seems to be a good number for a 20 without spending mega bucks. Only reason i havent gone a 25 is due to not wanting to getting defected for it, nothing wrong with having a 220rwkw 32 that looks standard under the hood.

Depending on what state.ur in im pretty sure even a enclosed pod is illegal with an intercooler. Thats why i went back to standard airbox, i will just run a cold air intake to the factory snorkle.

Once you start getting past 220-230 rwkw with a rb20 you'll get nothing but lag, the best turbos out there ie least amount of lag for a 20 will get you 230 rwkw max, once you start chasing more that means bigger turbo = lag, and i mean piss you of annoying lag trust me. The turbo you listed will be to laggy and is more suited to a 2.5 or 3 litre. If you have the cash invest in a 25, pretty easy to get a reliable 260-300rwkw where as a 20 is kinda to restricted for anything over 230. I'm sunning a standard turbo highflowed and have 219 rwkw and its not to laggy, still more then standard of course but no where near as bad as say a 33 highflow. I make full boost by around 4-4.5k, i personally think around 210-230 is perfect for a 20. A hks 2535 would prob get you closer to 240 or more but unsure how it compares lag wise to the hks 2530 which is a proven winner on a 20. I should ad that e85 could be the way to go to, theres a guy on here who got 265 rwkw from his 20 with similar turbo as mine, just he has spent a fair bit of time on rb26 inlet manifold and a few other things, but still a pretty good effort.

The best motoring and hot version are actually dvd's i dont mind paying full price for, i never bother buying dvd's for movies but stuff like this is really a joy to watch, something no aussie or american car show could achieve imo. Oh well, looks like i'll end up watching the ones i have many more times over.