QLDR31

This photo is of an R34 GTT, not my car. Fuel directions look right?

Fuel ins and outs were swapped, so swapped them back. Topped up coolant. No more leaks from coolant today. I will bleed it once the engine gets running. Battery was replaced. This new battery leaked acid so got another replacement today. After work with a bunch of guys from work observing we manged to get the engine running. I think it seemed to run pretty well maybe not all cylinders. A little smoke started to come off the exhaust manifold. The we shut it down. Unfortunately we couldn't get the engine to run again. I had a hole in transmission hoses, this has been fixed. Alternator belt was loose today. Had the wrong belt on alternator etc, put the middle sized belt on. Going to fix some dodgie wiring, tomorrow (The grey 6 pin plug, think its for auto transmission). The plug from the AFM doesn't catch. I might try another AFM, see if its the plug or the AFM. The plug looks OK. Someone told me to remove the CAS and spin it by hand, with ignition on and see if injectors pulse. I assume the CAS normally spins anti-clockwise. I'm going to bring a stethoscope and listen to each injector. Might also try tapping some fuel injectors to free up blocked ones. Whats the best way to run an engine in? Someone said idle it for 24hrs. I am not sure about that. Hopefully success will come for a change.

Yeah same engine going back in. The engine was previously over heating, pitted block. But been off the road about five years now.

Maybe I should do compression test. Buying a new battery and coolant today.

Got most of it together now. I tried to fill the coolant, but leaked out the back of the engine. I removed the heater hoses, for now and bypassed the heater core. Found the small elbow behind the engine had loose clamps. Hopefully that will be the leak fixed. I find out today. I had a crack at turning it over yesterday with my portable fuel system. Battery was dead, but used jump starter. Seemed to turn over ok, but seemed like no spark or fuel? AFM plug doesn't click or fasten itself. But seems to be on ok. Not sure if alternator belt too tight. Ways to check oil pressure? Any tips?

Yeah I took a three day holiday, and worked on car on hoist. Working over the weekend on it as well. I took the auto box out. Tailshaft off, Pipe at the back off, Gear selector out of the way, Exhaust off (not sure if required). Had a transmission jack so made it pretty nice (Pro tip someone said its good to strap the gearbox to the jack). I found that the one piece sandwich plate was the correct one. RWD auto sandwich plates don't have cut outs for AWD sump etc. Unfortunately I put the top of two piece sandwich plate on it before I compared or thought about it. So I cut the bottom off my original one and used that. I learnt the hard way a couple times not to bolt the torque converter until the gearbox is bolted to engine properly. While exhaust was off, I dropped the fuel tank, replaced 25YO fuel lines. Drained the tank had like 20L, thought I pumped it out previously. Treated rust above tank and exhaust. Sprayed black stone guard. Tow hook, rear exhaust hanger and rear heat shield are being powder coated black. Remaining jobs: -Fit A/C, Power steering pump, connect starter motor, Drain some oil (put too much in), -Hook up heater hose. It has a oil head drain so I can't use factory hard pipes. Going to try silicon hoses from kit I got. with alloy joiners, clamps and silicon hose to link them. Putting some heat shielding wrap on as well. -Replace fuel filter and front fuel hoses. Going to use a cheap filter run it for a bit then replace with a Nissan one. When I was draining fuel tank I used a paint filter and caught a lot of what looked like tobacco. -Fit new belts. -Fit radiator and pipes, fan and coolant. Check for leaks. -Got to workout how to plumb transmission cooler and radiator to gearbox and do that. -Find airbox and AFM and a bunch of clamps. and fit them. Add pipe from intercooler and turbo to airbox etc. -Fix exhaust. Down the track I will replace it with a Jap one, once mrs ok with that. -Fix some wiring VVT plug is broken so I don't know which pin goes where. Might have to drive up (three hour round trip) and see my R34 RB25DE NEO for pin colours. I probably have more parts I need anyway. -Grey six pin plug hanging off intake. Had three broken wires. Someone replaced them with bullet connectors. I don't know what connects to what. I assume that plug is something for auto box. It seems to have two black wires, two red wires and two white wires. Closer examination required. Other connector has different colours. -Fit front CVs. Find CV joint Nuts and split pins and washers etc. No idea why I separated them from CVs. A boot needs replacing also. -Turn engine over with no fuel. Check for bad noises. -Going to run engine with portable fuel system to check before running from fuel system.

Maybe I used the wrong sandwich plate as well. Used one piece instead of two piece.

Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.

Thanks guys. Hopefully nothing is fooked up. The converter is meant to be bolted onto auto flywheel first hey? Not later. I like the hoist idea, I can do that at work. The tail shaft bolts are tight as fook and auto box is as greasy as fook. I guess ill need to put some wood between the sump and cross member to keep engine in position? Doesn't have any manual stuff. Same engine and gearbox. That were original. If the gearbox is busted i'll be looking for manual conversion.

The engine has been in for months now. Unfortunately something is wrong, bell housing bolts are in but there is a gap less than 10mm between bell housing and engine. The engine can't be turned in neutral, so something fowling. Note its an AWD auto and everything is original parts. I was thinking of putting longer bolts in bell housing that way engine and gear box can stay lined up, lever a gap between them and turn the engine until it lines up. Any tips/advice would be helpful. I'm planing on towing it to work so hopefully I can get it running, a few mechanics there to help me.

The engine and car are now in the same garage. I went to install the engine. It's been sitting in the same spot for a couple weeks. Found an oil leak. Luckily it was just the drain plug. I put the flex plate back on (93-103Nm). I can't find the torque spec for the four torque converter mounting bolts. They are smaller bolts then flex plate so probably less torque. Hopefully New years day i'll get the engine in. I also found a bunch of surface rust around where radiator goes so might tidy that up before putting the radiator in.

So I have added a head drain. I was wondering what others have done to keep the heater hoses. I would like to retain the heater hose hard pipes possibly with some mods. This is on a RB25DET NEO. Just looking for a neat outcome. Also i'm not sure how much room I have with the engine out Cheers guys

I cut up some cable tie saddles to secure the coil wiring loom (the threads were already tapped to 5mm). The build is nearly done just need to figure out a few more hoses like the IAC valve and bolt the turbo on. Anyone got a pic of the IAC valve? I'm pretty sure I know how it plumbs just not certain (closest pipe to coils to the red bung in pic, middle pipe to throttle body, last pipe to coolant stuff below via long hose).

Last weekend I got the harmonic balancer on, had to bolt the auto flywheel on so I could lock it with a thing I made up. Then removed the flywheel again. So I could bolt the engine back on the stand. Also got the injectors on. The insulator things on the tips of injectors I managed to find 6 unbroken ones heated them up with heat gun and put them on. Luckily I had a spare set of injectors and rail to raid parts off. This weekend i'm planning on bolting down the cam covers (buying a 1/4" torque wrench that goes down to 2Nm), I got alloy cam halfmoon blockers, Bolting on the turbo and covers, bolting on the top of the intake manifold and finishing the plumbing. Should be pretty much ready then.

I was putting new o'rings on the injectors today. Then I was trying to put the insulator? at the tip of the injector. They seem to break. I guess I'll need some new ones? Any tips? Slowly progressing:

I thought Z32 4 pots bolted straight on. Not sure about 370Z. I look at rotor catalogs and compare different models. I'm looking at upgrading my brakes at some point. Not sure what to use. I got R34 GTT rims. I'd just bite the bullet and try one on. Can just leave the original caliper connected.

The silicon hoses turned up yesterday. Most of them seem to match up. So do I need new hose clamps everywhere? Thinking of tidying up the coolant hard pipes. I'm thinking: wire brush and rust disolver rusty bits. Clean off oil and grease and some silver gal paint. Replaced orange with black o'rings on the oil cooler. Also did the one between the block and the sandwich plate.

The R34 RB25DET NEO set turned up yesterday. Most of the hoses seem ok. Not sure about one of the radiator hoses. Four hoses haven't paired up yet.

I bought the ebay set. I'll post how that goes. Cost me around $440 with tax.

If I was putting an awd engine into a rwd car. id keep the awd sump chop the front diff part off and weld up the holes. Hopefully there is no space issues with steering rack etc.

O well I got shiny new ones now. Would of preferred to save the $60 for something else. I noticed the oil cooler has a tiny leak so I bought three the o'rings for that. I thought they would be with the gasket kit. R33 manual says to torque oil cooler to oil filter bracket to 34-44nm. Bolted on the exhaust manifold. My R33 manual said 3.9-4.9nm. Think this was a typo the exhaust heat cover are that torque. Another part of the manual says 27-31nm, I still haven't bolted on the balancer. I was waiting till I have complete inlet and exhaust manifolds bolted on. Then hoist it up, bolt on the flywheel (so I can use it to lock the crankshaft). Then bolt the balancer on, timing belt covers and cam covers. Hopefully will be ready to drop in the engine bay by then. Tips on torquing the cam covers? R33 manual says 2-3.9nm. Not sure how I can do this maybe hand tight. My 1/4inch torque wrench only goes down to 5nm.

Thanks, I didn't know that. I got cam cover gaskets in the OEM gasket kit so should be ok. I bought a 29 piece silicon hose set today on eBay under $445 with tax. See how it goes. The other day my cam cover bolts turned up and surprise surprise they look like what I already had. I knew they were different to older RB engines but didn't realize they were normal looking bolts.

To me some bits look slightly different. Some hoses might be flipped over. I haven't bought anything from Aliexpress but a bit cheaper. Anyone tried kits like these on the NEO engine?

Just noticed this set on eBay: $466.44 Might be worth giving it a try. seller is winner_racing_spares What do people think? Looks pretty good to me. Vehicle Fits NISSAN SKYLINE GT-T ER34 RB25DET 1999-2002 Specifications Default Color: BLACK We have 13 color options, If you don't leave note, We will ship hose color the first picture shows.Thanks! · Smooth wipe down finish · Working temperature: -60 ~ 260 degrees · Working Pressure: 0.3 to 0.9Mpa · Bursting Pressure: 2Mpa · Thickness: 2mm to 5mm · Size tolerance: +/-0.5mm · Resistance to UV, water, ozone and oxygen Include: 29PIECES, radiator hose ,heater hoses,vacuum hoses,and other ancillary hoses. Product Information Welcome to Winner_Racing_Spares 's store. We supply PREMIUM QUALITY all aluminum radiator and silicone hose kit, oil cooler, intercooler and kit for racing auto and motocross auto bike. We promise that all our products are made of the best materials and advanced manufacture technique. All our products are 100% fully tested to ensure top quality. All manufactured in a brand new state of the art facility with the same manufacturing process that OEM companies use. We are manufacturer , all shop order, bulk order ,wholesale is welcome. We also make-to-order. Please feel free to ask

Apparently the NEO has no washer in the inlet cam. On the weekend I got the timing belt on. Did another rookie error had my torque wrench set to fp instead of nm. Over torqued the tensioner. So I tossed my new stud and nut and reused my old ones. I bought a stud install/remove kit. The remove part is too long to remove the tensioner studs but the install part works well. I loctited the smaller stud. My engine didn't have original the cam cover bolts so I have ordered them (another 3-4 week wait). Apparently the NEO bolts are different to everything else. But I have plenty to go on with.