Fhrx

Failing that email me your address and I'll send you one.

Seeing as you sit at the front and your ears face forwards, I'd recommend you spend all your money there.

One of the main reasons we use Dynamat over other deadening variants such as SoundOFF and Roadkill is that it can be peeled off to allow access to the inner door workings if required. I have six layers on my heap (three inner / three outer) and I recently peeled it back so the paintless dent guy could get in there and take out some annoying little dimples in the doors.

The enclosure will need to be constructed from at least 18mm MDF. The volume of the enclosure changes depending on the install but as a general ball park figure I'd aim for around the 0.9cf to 1.1cf sealed region.

One of the better tutorials regarding amplifier classes can be found here.

When you're doing them you'll need to remove the computer from memory. This allows you to get the plug out from the body side of the car (it comes out backwards). Regarding the metal clips, they're what actually holds the sockets into the body. If you dropped them down into the body then head down your local Jaycar and get yourself a magnetic probe like this: Use this to dig around and find those clips.

One of the first steps we always recommend you do is install a larger battery (deep cycle if you plan on running the stereo without the car running) and earthing upgrade. The R34 has quite a large alternator and I would have thought for a one amplifier system (unless of course the amplifier is 4 x 500 continous or something that large) it would have no problems keeping the battery topped up. Definately start with the earth upgrade first though as it's the cheapest. For more info see here: Earthing kit http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_2.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_3.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_4.jpg http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/ground_5.pdf Batteries Optima D34 http://www.optimabatteries.com.au Odyssey 1200MJT http://www.odysseybatteries.com Stinger SPV44 http://www.stingerelectronics.com Scosche EFX EDC1200 http://www.scosche.com For photos see here: http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp...asp#interest8_4 Hope that helps.

If the RCA cables are no where near ANY power cables (not just the stereo ones), then check the location of the crossovers. Sometimes crossovers can induce noise into the sound stream if they're mounted to close to larger power cables.

We usually make a 6x9" baffle that attaches to the bottom of the parcel shelf. The speaker mounts face up to that baffle and simply fires through it and the hole in the shelf. Remember that only the midrange and tweeter need to fire through the whole entirely. If the 6x9" cone (which is a sub / mid bass driver) doesn't fire through the hole entirely, the bass will not be overly affected.

Are you in NSW perchance? We'd be more than happy to diagnose it for you.

Propods are another option too if you're not confident with a jigsaw.

If you're thinking of installing them in your front doors then see the tutorial at the top of this section.

I'll advocate APS too.

Assuming you have the amplifier hooked up correctly there are a few things to look at; 1. Have you tried another source and RCA cables? Just to check the amplifier is actually receiving a signal. 2. Have you also checked the subwoofer is wired up and no wires have come undone (inside the enclosure for example)?

You didn't include a budget? Just a personal opinion of course, but I wouldn't recommend running a Clarion amplifier as their damping factor and distortion levels, while nice, are not as good as some on the market. For example, why not have a look at these (do still include Clarion in your auditioning process though): Audio System F2.500 http://service.winnet.it/Gttrading4/easysi...udio_system.asp Crossfire XP1000D http://www.crossfirecaraudio.com Earthquake PH2200W/D1.1 http://www.earthquakesound.com DLS A3 http://www.dls.se Audison LRx1.1k http://www.audison.com Boston GT28 http://www.bostonacoustics.com Tru-Tech B2200 http://www.trutechnology.com Digital Designs DD Z1 http://www.ddaudio.com Focal FP1.800 http://www.focal-fr.com Infinity 611A http://www.infinitysystems.com There are many others too but that is a start.

Sadly I no longer use a screen.

The negatives all run to the cars body. Two connections to each shock tower and the last one goes down the the diff tunnel bolt. It just makes the car body a much better earth all around. As for the deadening on the outer skin, you simply feed it in through the holes.

Nah you misinterpreted my post. I meant he might be disappointed with my review but not the amp when he gets it off you.

Amen. That way too if you ever want to sell the car you can revert it back to factory.

You don't need a million dollar system to compete and on that note; you don't need to compete at all to be part of it. You can just come along for a mingl, chat and have a listen to various systems if you wish. Everybody is welcome to come.

There is a tutorial at the top of this setion on how to mount speakers in the R33 doors. Click here to read it.

We use Tru-Technology amplifiers here and they come highly recommended by us. If you're interested, I just tested and reviewed the TT Billet 4.75. The review is in the latest addition of INCAR magazine so grab a copy on the way to APS when you pick up your new TT amp - you will not be dissapointed (with the amp I mean)!

Cleutin, they're the sanctioned dB drags champ, not CAASQ. The sanctioned CAASQ (Car Audio Australia Sound Quality) competition series in NSW is run by us and while these sometimes coincide with the dB Drag events, they are two totally different competitions. The dates for the upcoming CAASQ (not SPL) sound offs are: NSW Round 3: Sunday 27th May (coincides with SHOOKU's BBQ) NSW Round 4: Sunday 24th June (conincides with Doran SPL event) NSW Round 5: Saturday 28th July NSW Round 6: Sunday 26th August (conincides with Doran SPL event) NSW Round 7: Saturday 29th September National Finals: Saturday 13th October I hole that clears things up a little. For more information on the CAASQ series and all relevant information, click here.

Just as a side note; I added these additional images to the other thread in CAA so I thought I'd add them here too. They show the passenger side door plug from the back end and our standard R33 battery / earthing kit upgrade (including the custom alloy brackets to avoid damaging the car).

Hey there guys. Over the last few months I’ve had scores of people asking me to do a tutorial on how to install speakers correctly into the doors of the R33 Skyline. Well we (obviously) had to wait for another R33 to come in for the treatment and that has happened this week with an R33 GTR. So without further ado, this is the procedure for doing the doors correctly. Step one: Take one original door complete with factory moulded plastic base speaker. Take plastic off and remove residue. Step two: Apply sound deadening to outer skin. Step three: Add diffuser panels behind the speaker. Tie the factory speaker wires (hanging down in image) to the loom as you'll be running aftermarket ones. Step four: Run aftermarket speaker cables through modified door plug socket. In the Skyline where the cables run through to the doors, we simply machine a single hole (diameter varies depending on gauge of cable; pictured below is Audison Connection Sonus 14 gauge). This hole should be located between the main wires and that is where the aftermarket cables run through. These holes are traditionally blank. If need be you can also remove the plug totally and run your own loom tubes. Step five: Sound deaden inner skin and remove air bubbles. Seal spacer onto door. Leave enough clearance for door handle and lock control rods to move freely. Also leave a little deadening around the top of the speaker hole to act as a 'roof' against water when it rains. Step six: Create the spacers. These should be drilled to match up with the doors factory holes ensuring you don't damage the car by drilling holes). Step seven: Make sure the midrange has a gasket because there is little use in going to all this trouble and then having no seal on the door itself. Solder the trimmed speaker wires onto speaker. Don't use crimp terminals because their two best traits are falling off and creating resistance. Step eight: Heat shrink around the terminals to protect them. Unlike electrical tape, heat shrink will not begin moving after a couple of months. Step nine: Screw speaker onto spacer. Make sure you seal around the baffle and place a gasket between the speaker and the baffle in order to keep the bass strong. There you have it; one Skyline door done, Fhrx Studios style.