T0nyGTSt

Yeh? Akira said otherwise. Only on certain models though? Anyway I think I want a 446i or something of that ilk... T.

Autowatch and Brant DO NOT remote start. T.

If you need to ask maybe it's not for you... ha ha... Lane Cove River Steakhouse. T,

Is Minh like a real doctor? Is it safe to send wimmenz to him for... uh... inspection? T.

What I am saying is that as Skyline owners, do we gravitate towards particular manufacturers? I hardly see much in the way of Sard or OS Giken stuff on Skylines. Mine is half Apex'i, half HKS and I doubt I'll change from this. Wouldn't want to stray much towards anyone else... T.

www.b4ds.com.au They are certainly not the cheapest around but are far from being the 'worst' Australian dist. of Jap. perf. bits. T.

Probably the "best" way is to get a professional to putty up the holes and respray/sand the area. A "cheap" way is to get electrical/instrument plugs from Jaycar/DSE and silicon them up. Guess which one I did? T.

You could apply this procedure to other activities I gather... T.

17 is damn good. It's a baseline indicator of knock. It's not completely as you get different knocks for different conditions. I'm sure it goes up in the rain and it'll read high when the engine is cold. But I get a 11-12... But I can often drive for ages and not get more than 1 (???). T.

I just love the cool looking interior - ed's interior is really modern looking. I did not know it was a series one and that's irrelevant, it's just a bit darker looking. The 34 is a model update like any other - the 33 is much bigger advance over the 32 - the 34 gains the Neo mainly but the appointments are just more modern than the early 90's look 33. T.

Look at the interior and features - traction control, abs etc. etc. it is higher spec. car than the 33. At a higher price of course. The interior just looks better designed, appointed, that is all, European almost. It clearly is pretty much the same car (it is a Skyline after all). T.

I had the most awful problem in my one... Just say I'm cruising in 5th on the freeway. I wanna overtake some goons in station wagons. I have to dump it down to 4th - stupid thing will not go in. So I'm stuck in neutral! No power, no acceleration! **** it I say... dump it down to 3rd... and then the car spools up to 4,000 and bang it goes off. Strangest problem. Doesn't happen now. T.

I would say this is invaluable advice. Our pumps are cheap which is good. You want to do pump, timing and accessories belts at once to save labour. $150 for labour is damn cheap though. T.

Well I had Redline put into my box. Just drove the car in after a 5 min drive from work. Jacked the car up on stands - shoved a pan underneath and out it drained - the oil complete with cool gold colour sparkles came out lukewarm. Needed a handpump to push the oil UP into the gearbox. Too a little over 3 litres. T.

The above statement sorta kills off what little enthusiasm there was for the cruise. T.

Change it at 20,000/25,000 intervals. Or is that pedantic? T.

+$600 import tax Excuse me if this sounds naive but WTF is the above? Just because it's an import it attracts a $600 tax??? T.

Have to be a dirt track at least in part... and blue WRX should be the lead car. T.

Well the guy who did my flow work could not have been more personable. He explained exactly what he was gonna do and he did the work quickly and too spec. and on budget. Can't beat that esp. in an area where there's so much dodge. I was given a max. psi loading on it - a 'never to exceed' warning but you're kidding yourself if you think you should run that pressure and on stock internals. Now if you had $2,250 which was what GCG wanted, I'd be after a 2530 or something of that calibre but again I'm not exactly after huge kW nor am I after 12 sec. quarters. T.

What's he have? An EMS or something? 220 should be fine. It depends on what's been done to the turbo. If they uprated wheel sizes it should be right. Apparently Brendan did a 235 but again - different people, different work done on the turbo. Personally at $2,000+ I get the feeling high flowing is not my first choice. But again calling around in Syd./Bris./Melb. - comparable flowing work can be done much cheaper. Getting a scope on what work is done for what dollars would help. 205kW does sound a bit on the low side but... esp. w/ plenum T.

I have an EIDS Pro I don't need. It seems my FC can hold idle better than I gave it credit for. Here's is the spiel: EIDS Electronic Idle Stabiliser All turbocharged vehicles which are fitted with a blow off valve are subject to idle instability when the valve is replaced by a unit which does not return the charge to the inlet tract under closed throttle conditions. Hot-wire and flap type Air Flow meters are especially sensitive to this signal disruption. For this reason, HKS have developed the EIDS, which is an adjustable unit that supplies a substitute signal to the ECU, allowing a smooth transition from boost to overrun to idle. Hesitation and stalling have now become a thing of the past. And this is the Pro: EIDS Pro Electronic Idle stabiliser Pro With similar attributes to the standard EIDS, but with additional inputs and a greater adjustability range to suit higher boost / higher power models, the EIDS Pro is recommended in any Sequential Blow Off valve installation, which will be operating at high pressure level fluctuations. This item is perfect, boxed, not even taken out of the plastic package. To clarify I have the Pro. version. You do best to ring up BD4S in Gladeville to get their price. I have a Syd. workshop who can install. A picture is included. I want best offer over $280... T.

My old oil was not too bad actually. Still thinish and clear (not cloudy). There was coppery flecks in there (ie. brass syncro filings). But the shift quality is notchy. The Redline (which is thick blue opaque) has to be hand pumped in thru the bottom. Had maybe half a litre left over (which may be ok for the diff.) But damn does it shift fast and smooth. T.

Hey there, I don't post here normally but there is guy selling SMS/mobile phone add-ons for your alarm so that it calls you if your car is disturbed. No good if you're in another suburb but more useful IMO than a 600m pager. You do need to come up with a phone (no probs.) and say a pre-paid sim. T.

I don't think this fiberglass support is gonna do shit unless the accident is like at walking pace... The car was COMPLETELY unsafe prior to the support - at least something is holding the bar up and them is some crumpling of the support if there is a big hit. This really is a dilemma - I don't know if the steel support should be refitted or is this good as it gets? T.

Have you already bought the car? I was emailed an auction sheet for my car in jpeg format when I won the bid. T.