mr skidz

What's the current setting on the cam gears

If it's high enough to trigger enrichment/retard yes

Not sure where your intake air temperature sensor is but it's common to see upwards of 70 degrees as it's just a slow reading sensor which reads the temperature of the housing it's sitting in and it's connected to the cylinder head via the intake plenum on an RB so it just measures heat soak basically. It's normal for me to be on the side of the road and see 69 and 70 once you get it in 3rd or 4th and apply some boost you can quickly see upwards of 10 degrees drop almost by the end of a pull getting cool air flow through it is the key sitting stationery always cooks your iat sensors.

Sexy

adjustment mostly comes in handy if you change the rate of the spring. Otherwise yeah nah

Slightly off topic question but wondering how hot does this fluid get when on track and does it influence the way the attesa system works?

Cheers I actually thought it would take more than that

No

Anyone know off the top of their head how much fluid is required to flush the whole system from empty?

Wonder why type A cams never get much consideration? To date my smaller 2.7L is producing 20psi on 98ron earlier than 2.8L's on E85 with the same turbos. Which is something to think about. I get positive boost from 1,500rpm and starts pulling from 2,500 rpm which is where you want your cams to operate. My boost plotted againt Paul's and biggest difference is cams and lack of head work on my part.

How much would aerodynamics play a part when assessing ones mph? is there much mph lost in the rear wing at all at those speeds? Just curious as I give zero fu#ks about drag racing.

In terms of duration in the camshaft I'm not sure capacity makes that much of a difference you're just a shifting your peak torque closer or further away yes the stroker will have more peak torque but where it is in the RPM range is what you're after not the actual number

Don't quote me on this I'd have to dig through my archives. you might want to just double check but pretty sure Z Tune R34 ran type A spec cams and it ran same crank spec as mine too

Peak torque moves further away as duration is increased so do the opposite [emoji6][emoji108]

Sorry no before after comparison's but throttle response is very snappy right off idle on a 2.738

I would choose std cams over type bs

Low to mid was what I was targeting as I knew the RB would never lack top end regardless of cam choice so Type A it was. Wouldn't change a thing.

+1 for unbiased and fair dinkum moderators[emoji108]

Harris you're STILL comparing your car that's not even properly sorted? Then your coming out with the excuses as to why it's not shining? sort your car out first then compare to other setups.

Sounds good got a spare 40 minutes here so I might try and find this R32 [emoji21]

Don't think just because you put a speed sensor in there that they won't blame you for over spinning it. How many people do you think that over spin these things and break them will quickly pull up the log of the turbo RPM and send it directly to Borg Warner? I doubt there would be one and they're not stupid enough the believe otherwise.

Because it gives the manufacturer an excuse to not warrant a product that decides to fly part and then pass the blame on to the consumer it happens all the time.

If we can get a small Crew chiming in would be good to get on once or twice a week and have a beer fueled thrash or just post that you'll be on even.

I found about 3 Barn Finds but I'm still looking for the R32 cant find the bastard. Lol

The fact you have to be cautious of over spinning them in the same way as you would a stock ceramic set of twins is just annoying to say the least.