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robbo_rb180

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robbo_rb180 last won the day on October 12 2020

robbo_rb180 had the most liked content!

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About robbo_rb180

  • Rank
    Lurker
  • Birthday 05/10/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Townsville
  • Interests
    cars and stuff

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    rb25 sil80 ,180sx & Nismo 370
  • Real Name
    Rob
  • Build Thread

Recent Profile Visitors

7,768 profile views
  1. if wanting best budget power adder NO2 is the way I like the harrop stuff as good quality and has a good upgrade path to make big reliable power- smaller pulley, bigger reserviour (ice tank),bigger heat exchanger or interchiller and belt upgrade. Yeah it costs more but you could do a lot yourself the hardest part is having someone read your tune and flash in a map with new injector and map sensor data.
  2. Supercharger would be the go. Have you looked at any of the harrop kits? https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/htv2300-holden-vt-vz-commodore
  3. https://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/3/cid/518/id/22878 or the more sensible option https://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/7/cid/518/id/22763
  4. anything over 250kw and driving aggressively will kill a sr20 gearbox. coming from someone who has had a 200000km sr20. 220-230kw is all that is needed for a very competent track car- gtx2867, 1300cc injectors, taarks fuel rail, aeroflow fuel reg, Nistune with r35 MAF or Link plugin ecu, Walbro 460 (with correct wire size & relay). Standard manifolds, 3 inch exhaust and a generic intercooler, quality radiator, NPC RB conversion clutch. Spend the rest on whitelines bushes, mca coilovers, quality brake pads & rotors, decent tyres & enjoy reliable fun track days. This is my latest sr20 setup go towards the bottom for dyno chart on a conservative 16-17psi on old motor
  5. It would have been these 2 things, MCA run a softer rear spring than most and wheels pointing the right way always helps.
  6. I would be keeping your current setup as still need to do all that in another car you bought. Still think a 350/370z would be good for you, cheaper than a clapped out s chassis and already good brakes & gearbox, working AC, cruise control and can fit big wheels easily. Just add a good diff and seat. One of the best bits of work on that 180 If wanting a 180 chassis that is sorted body wise(seam welded,new bushes, gtr diff, brembos, braced cradle & castor boxes) PM me as I am selling one of mine soon so can mod the 370z.
  7. Keep going with what you have at least you know the work done so far is good and eveything is there. S15 subframe is better as gtr still hicas. Get that motor in, 5 stud with 350/370 front brakes ($2000), good mechanical diff(1000-1500 has @Kinkstaahgot one for sale still?) and quality cage (2500-4000) & tyres (1200-2000), spend the rest on event entry. I am sure some 18 year old would pay big bucks for the CA18
  8. I seem to be going back through a lot of the late 90s early 00s stuff lately
  9. https://rbfactory.shop/collections/nissan/products/copy-of-nissan-skyline-silvia-cefiro-180sx-25mm-engine-x-member-spacer-kit we use these for rb30 in s chassis to get clearance
  10. quality 14 inch push and 12 inch pull fans, 40mm radiator and ducting/shroud also look at the link to nissansilvia.com
  11. unbolt rb20 box put in 25 box, weld metal tabs to extend gearbox mount so all 4 bolts line up, get new tail shaft to suit gearbox & length. Exactly how I did mine 11 years ago.......
  12. use a funnel/cut down coke bottle at fill point, car running and also heater on full. will take a while but will bleed up, I have found using one of these the best for actually bleeding cooling systems one other thing could be a blown headgasket.........
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