Jump to content

robbo_rb180

Members
  • Content Count

    740
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3
  • Feedback

    0%

robbo_rb180 last won the day on July 12

robbo_rb180 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

134 Excellent

1 Follower

About robbo_rb180

  • Rank
    Lurker
  • Birthday 05/10/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Townsville
  • Interests
    cars and stuff

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    rb25 sil80 ,180sx & Nismo 370
  • Real Name
    Rob
  • Build Thread

Recent Profile Visitors

7,043 profile views
  1. yeah epoxy, like anything its all in the prep. Biggest issue I had was the humidty that day stupid high and it dried quicker than I expected. Prep was remove paint & grease, Citris scrub, water wash, etch, dry over night then coat. I haven't driven on it as other friends have had issues with it peeling parking car son it.
  2. How are you going to get the efames? I've used the rustoleum coating in parts of the shed, seems to be holding up alright.
  3. Have a look at r34 gtt fronts as rotor is 310mm or find a friend who is happy to let you borrow gtr/brembo calipers and rotors to test fit. The evo setup requires minimum of 18inch wheels generally.
  4. Looks like you will struggle to fit anything bigger, depending on the track and speeds a good set of pads, lines and fluid will be enough. If you decide to go bigger look at 350z brembo fronts as they will fit under most 17s (te37, rpf1, r33 gtr) I've been using project mu pads and 4000 series rotors with good consistent feel for 6+ years and am trialling a set of Elig pads at the moment but haven't had to do as heavy braking but seem alright for a budget brake pad.
  5. Good work, always good to have a system. Have you looked at torque or realdash for ecu info to be displayed on the head unit?
  6. Rear end is in, all new bushes and gktech arms also cleaned up a spare diff cover and fitted it up. Had one f**k up installing front lca bush and bent the lca, lucky I have a spare but it's on the race car in Brisbane 😭 Just need to clean up the threads for the rear sway bar mounts and that will be rear all done. Brake lines get measured first thing Monday so will be rolling Tuesday night. Actually getting keen to drive it. Excuse shitty pics but cbf after working on it all day. **won't let me upload pics @PranK
  7. Also clean the negative/grounding points on the battery, chassis and engine. Get hold of an after market guage and double check for sanity.
  8. Check the starter relay. The eccs/ecu relay sounds to be right as the buzzing will be the fuel pump that the ecu switches. If the relay is good, get under the car and give the starter a tap with a hammer as it may jammed. Following that get a multimeter and see if there is voltage to the start solenoid.
  9. If you have the time and patience do a heap of smoothing to the casting and a base coat to get rid of all the imperfections. I sandblasted these did a base coat sanded with 400 then 800 and did final colour coat, apply stickers then cleared. I also wax & grease remover between each dry coat. All I used was vht brake paint from a can but if was to do it again would probably 2pac them. Good luck with it, I'll try and post a link where I got my stickers.
  10. If you decide to go a new turbo see Shane at Subaru Doctor/Shane Fraser Motorsport does good pricing and work.
  11. That's it, no one is really going to see underneath the car. Calipers all finished off with fresh stickers and clear coat. Came up pretty good, not going to be a show car any way. Finished welding the plates in and prepared the rest of the suspension for a coat of black. Will let it cure for a day or two then start putting in the bushes and ball joints. Also had the HQ tuned back in May. Made a massive 176hp 😅 drives pretty good for what it is, definitely needs the nitrous kit finished off. I had the timing and secondary set up right but needed a different power valve & mod to the squirters.
  12. Use r32/33 engine cross member and mounts for that frame. Rb25 gearbox cross member requires the mounting to be moved forward (I welded 2 extensions on) Need custom tailahaft unless using Rb20 box Radiator can use one for CA18 for correct outlet positions. Either make your own sway bar spacer or get a whiteline one Google 'poor man's Rb conversion nissansilvia.com' a lot of good info All standard s chassis is retained but can use s14/15 flca and knuckles or buy a conversion kit requiring new bearings There is almost 20 years worth of info out there that a Google search will give all info My cars been Rb since 2003 and done both Rb20 to 25 box biggest problem is keeping it cool so use quality radiator and fans with ducting
  13. lifters or valve spring issue? Guessing it's not been driven under load or had fresh oil in that time? Best to remove cam and timing covers to inspect the valve train.
×
×
  • Create New...