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Everything posted by robbo_rb180

  1. if wanting best budget power adder NO2 is the way I like the harrop stuff as good quality and has a good upgrade path to make big reliable power- smaller pulley, bigger reserviour (ice tank),bigger heat exchanger or interchiller and belt upgrade. Yeah it costs more but you could do a lot yourself the hardest part is having someone read your tune and flash in a map with new injector and map sensor data.
  2. Supercharger would be the go. Have you looked at any of the harrop kits? https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/htv2300-holden-vt-vz-commodore
  3. https://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/3/cid/518/id/22878 or the more sensible option https://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/7/cid/518/id/22763
  4. anything over 250kw and driving aggressively will kill a sr20 gearbox. coming from someone who has had a 200000km sr20. 220-230kw is all that is needed for a very competent track car- gtx2867, 1300cc injectors, taarks fuel rail, aeroflow fuel reg, Nistune with r35 MAF or Link plugin ecu, Walbro 460 (with correct wire size & relay). Standard manifolds, 3 inch exhaust and a generic intercooler, quality radiator, NPC RB conversion clutch. Spend the rest on whitelines bushes, mca coilovers, quality brake pads & rotors, decent tyres & enjoy reliable fun track days. This is my latest sr20 setup go towards the bottom for dyno chart on a conservative 16-17psi on old motor
  5. It would have been these 2 things, MCA run a softer rear spring than most and wheels pointing the right way always helps.
  6. I would be keeping your current setup as still need to do all that in another car you bought. Still think a 350/370z would be good for you, cheaper than a clapped out s chassis and already good brakes & gearbox, working AC, cruise control and can fit big wheels easily. Just add a good diff and seat. One of the best bits of work on that 180 If wanting a 180 chassis that is sorted body wise(seam welded,new bushes, gtr diff, brembos, braced cradle & castor boxes) PM me as I am selling one of mine soon so can mod the 370z.
  7. Keep going with what you have at least you know the work done so far is good and eveything is there. S15 subframe is better as gtr still hicas. Get that motor in, 5 stud with 350/370 front brakes ($2000), good mechanical diff(1000-1500 has @Kinkstaahgot one for sale still?) and quality cage (2500-4000) & tyres (1200-2000), spend the rest on event entry. I am sure some 18 year old would pay big bucks for the CA18
  8. I seem to be going back through a lot of the late 90s early 00s stuff lately
  9. https://rbfactory.shop/collections/nissan/products/copy-of-nissan-skyline-silvia-cefiro-180sx-25mm-engine-x-member-spacer-kit we use these for rb30 in s chassis to get clearance
  10. quality 14 inch push and 12 inch pull fans, 40mm radiator and ducting/shroud also look at the link to nissansilvia.com
  11. unbolt rb20 box put in 25 box, weld metal tabs to extend gearbox mount so all 4 bolts line up, get new tail shaft to suit gearbox & length. Exactly how I did mine 11 years ago.......
  12. use a funnel/cut down coke bottle at fill point, car running and also heater on full. will take a while but will bleed up, I have found using one of these the best for actually bleeding cooling systems one other thing could be a blown headgasket.........
  13. This is interesting. Keep the oil cool & good catch can setup you will be fine. Spend the time getting the car handling & be reliable, You'll probably find yourself going better than guys with big horsepower. Depending on the rules is there flexabilty for basic aero?
  14. get fixed back & harness' but keep factory seat belt for the street. Unless its for a rally/race car you can get it passed but only for limited use like in other states
  15. hang on........ is the surge tank being fed from the stock tank then an internal pump feeding to that manifold on the 2 external pumps? that inline filter is filtering just the lift pump to surge? There is so much reference material out there these days to setting up very tidy fuel systems in any platform. If a workshop is doing all this I would be pissed.
  16. a wiring specialties is around $1400 setup for a link plugin, std CAS and r35 coils without freight & taxes Go a link plugin $1800-2100 (depending on where its from) add 2x Temp/pressure sensors $130ea (oil & fuel), NZefi trigger $400 (plug & play), link expansion loom $90, Wideband $400-500. is actually a good deal for someone on a budget and could easily do it yourself to save money on labour. I would be going r35 coils while there just to get it done. Wait til you have to do a proper fuel system with 2-3 pumps + hanger/surge + wiring( proper realys, 5mm wire)+ -8 feed line + fuel reg. That ecu wiring setup will seem cheap Have a look at @klutched build will give you a good idea whats needed for 1000hp reliably
  17. I think most of us are use to big power builds looking like this..... i like the use of a connector to a connector at least its a quality connector...... Haltech what...... platinum plug in, elite 2000/2500, e11 v2........ ask them who does it and get a quote from them.
  18. what ecu are you using? are you adding extra sensors? Does the workshop do quality work or looms previously? Its frustrating but if you have gone gone all out on a 1000hp build to me 5K is a drop in the ocean. New loom with extra sensors and new trigger kit for $5k is in my opinion pretty good value. Solves a lot of issues that WILL pop up.
  19. Hardrace do a rubber bushed adjustable arm kit. I have ran the rose jointed arms for years and didn't really notice the noise difference until I went in my mates car that has rubber bushes, much smoother and quieter (more enjoyable daily) . If just a street car that goes to the track once a year the rubber bushed would be the go .
  20. New year updates Got the engine back a few days before Xmas and everything was here ready for the build. Did some prep of rebleeding the lifters, cleaning the cam caps and rockers, Clean and primed oil pump, linished the crank and did a board of torque settings & clearances. gave the block a really good clean and blew it out with compressed air ready for final measure and assembly Gapped the rings, assembled piston & rods and got into it. Had the rotating assembly in first then had a bit of spare time left so got the head on too. Before i put the cams in I had to helicoil a cam bolt thread and with that done got the top end assembled. Ended up doing it twice as I thought I had the inlet cam a few teeth off but was fine, nothing wrong with double checking. I put the sump on with all fresh gasket sealant and started threading in the bolts to find the rear 2 were stripped so off with the sump, ran a tap thru and put it on only to find bolts still not grabbing so just ended up chucking new bottom on to seal the engine until I get another helicoil kit. Got a heap of little bits on but still need new fan bolts, paint cam cover & port/tidy exhaust manifold. Bar a few little things its 90% done, been pretty satisfying so far but will see how it all goes when I go to run it Fixed up 2 of the castor box nuts that had broken off the frame and patched part of the chassis which was damaged, welded plates into the castor boxes and fitted new lca with plates & new ball joints. Will get the few keep doing small bits as need to do a big clean up and reorganise the shed to install the hoist
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