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robbo_rb180

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Posts posted by robbo_rb180

    Stock rb25det neo questions

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    The Link is a great investment LONG TERM.
    ADD a WB02(pending ecu maybe able to wire direct to ecu), IAT sensor, 2 wire bosch knock sensor and MAC valve minimum.

    Tuning yourself with no experience is not a good idea, pay for the car to be tuned by someone that knows the software and platform. Unless you are willing to invest alot of time and money with guidance from an experienced person into learning its not worth having a go yourself and potentially destroying an engine or having multiple issues. 

    Look at HP Academy, Evans tuning school and Link forum for more info or attending courses for 1 on 1 lessons (I did all this). I have been down this path and for me it was worth it at the time, I was limited with tuners available where I lived and enjoyed the learning but had a very good understanding mechanically and electrically of how everything worked together. I did work at a shop tuning for a short period and thats where I learnt more.

    I'd be talking with any local shops and going with what they recommend as you will need support over time and good sticking with the same tuner if they are highly recommended and experienced.

      

     

    • Like 1

    R32 Gts+t Daily/street

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    19 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

    Drifting yeah not surprising. but 2.5 laps at mallala on a grip circuit day 25°?

    Thats a problem, I think your plans for cooling system will sort it out. I went through similar issues with the sil80 and the ducting is what sorted it out. Try some coreflute(sign board material) to make up temporary ducting to trial it.

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/tunnelcore-1200-x-900-x-3mm-black-double-wall-pp-flute-board_p0488078

    • Like 1

    R32 Gts+t Daily/street

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    28 minutes ago, CRSKmD said:

     - a few years of seat time??

    ^^^This, you would be amazed how much more load you put on a car when confident and experienced.
    More 100% throttle in a higher gear and using the car for longer periods. Drifting also is hard on cooling systems as general not getting airflow over the front directly.

    I drive a mates 350z and I use third gear (less rpm) more and I can do longer sessions where he uses second bangs off limiter and only gets say 30% less seat time before car gets hot.

    R32 Gts+t Daily/street

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    2 hours ago, CRSKmD said:

    - Ducting

    This is key to any heat exchanger. Getting fresh air in and across the whole surface.
    25 row oil cooler will be enough.

    With old cooling pro radiator (fully ducted from front bar) and setrab 20 row oil cooler (open air) with thermostat (85C) on the rb25 (half grout filled) in s chassis.
    93C Coolant Temp, Oil temp around 96 after 5 laps QR on a 30 degree day

    370z LSD differential swap into R34 GTT

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Will need the s14/15 gktech bush kit, 370z axels and gtr/z32tt hub/bearing.

    The diff will sit lower than current setup and depending how low your car is axel angles will be weird and may damage cv's.

    I think my old rb25 would sit around 2800-3000rpm doing those speeds with 4.11 gear so nothing wrong there. A s14/15 diff may be a better swap as a 3.69/3.7/3.9 ratio and will bolt in pending whether you have abs/non abs car and 5x1/2x3 axels.

    • Like 1

    Petition to save Wakefield Park

    in New South Wales

    Posted

    The track looks great in both directions and seems to be a few small changes in the old area's. I have never been there but seen old footage and google earth pic's.

    18 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

    Following the video Wakefield Park (One Raceway) posted on youtube of the track going in both directions, I'm intrigued to see what they do for running the track in the counter clock wise direction.

    Based purely from the track being made and put into a racing game, I can forsee some issues going backwards.

    They've also changed quite a few of the corners too. It's pretty much just vaguely shaped like Wakefield Park used to be.

    They shouldn't have to do anything as they would have created longer/deeper run off area's and placed tyre wall to allow for both directions. May have to turn the safety light boards around but you would think they would have bought more to allow it.
    Having done a few track layouts with some considerable safety concerns and mitigating this would be fine, the small kinks and chicanes as part of the redesign allow for cars to slow down  before the bigger corners.

    MAP / fuel pressure typical delay times

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    I installed this pump just over a year ago -

    https://aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1057-525lph-e85-hi-flow-fuel-pump

    Do we think the pump is starting to fail, or should I be looking at anything else in the fuel system?

    When it was originally installed, everything was fine. I checked the 98 and e85 tunes, all good. 

    For quite a while now, maybe 8+ months I've been on 98 only and the pump has been keeping up. But now that I've put e85 in it (the tank is currently about 50% ethanol) the pump suddenly can't keep up. No idea what's changed in the past year to upset the pump. 

    I would not recommend using any of the aeroflow pumps. Very prone to failure.

    *I use and recommend a lot of their products. Fuel pumps are still best to stay with the big player's TI, Bosch, Pierburg

    • Like 3

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Damn, that is the worst thing. 
    @admS15 just did a home rebuild on a budget with good success.
    Have read from here:


    Pending damage done and budget can get away with second hand pistons and a quick hone.
    There could be damage to crank and mains too which will need engine out to see and more machining.
    Budget will determine how you go fixing but removing and refitting the engine yourself can save a few $$$$ but can come with certain disclaimers from engine builder. With the way the market is there has been a few decent second hand engines around SE Qld that could be had for reasonable money but its another gamble.

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/206185355874299/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A7074d731-18c6-435a-96d8-a0f886389be1
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/24721780230801011/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A7074d731-18c6-435a-96d8-a0f886389be1


    @No Crust Racing you want to build another motor???

    R34 GTT - Compression Issue

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    5 hours ago, LjB123 said:

    I would have thought theyre competent, they build, work on and tune JDM cars all day every day, including Skylines, they surely cant have made any stupid rookie mistakes. Im already out if pocket $9000 for all the work done, and its worse off than when i started. Atleast the car ran and i could drive it despite the exhaust valve leak. Now its gone backwards 

    Just because someone works on something and has a workshop does not make them competent...........

    Things to look at in regards to Idle and A/C
    -Clean and test IACV
    _Check that IACV is plumbed correctly
    -Check that ECU inputs and outputs are setup correctly for idle and idle up 


    Anyone with a laptop calls themselves a tuner these days and there's more to tuning than a fuel/VE and ignition tables.  

    You also haven't stated what original work was required. Big thing going from some basic maintenance to ripping an engine apart.

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