PhilKenSebben

I have a set of 32 inch chrome rims just sitting here, waiting to go on an awesome piece of machinery like this. Do you reckon they'll fit or will I have to pump the guards?

Never mind, found the thread with pics at the start of the thread, sorry So you had dramas with fitment eh? ok well that does explain why you would have trouble unloading them, though they are still a bargain. Might do a little more research and then let you know.

You serious? You STILL haven't got rid of these? If they are genuine SARD 650s, brand new in box, have you got any photos to prove this is legit? Seems a little odd they still haven't sold is all....

I had the exact same problem on the same side. I removed the plastic cover, removed the old sealant, and put new mastic sealer in there. But to no avail, it kept filling up regardless. A good way to find the leak is to use a spray bottle full of water. Lightly mist the problem area with water, INSIDE the car, then use something along the lines of talcum powder. Put the powder on a tray and use an airgun, or even your breath to blow a fine layer of powder everywhere around the offending area. Let it dry, then hose the shit out of the OUTSIDE of your car and you'll very quickly find the EXACT route the water is finding its way in, as there will be a clear run through the evenly spread powder. Helped for me anyway. Good luck

As far as I saw on the Top Gear episode they never mentioned whether the Stig was using all of the electronic gadgetry that makes the GTR brilliant or if he was going "a-naturale", as he normally insists. Or is it simply not possible to turn all the gizmos properly OFF? I remember reading a Wheels or Motor article that talked about how when Schumacher drove (I believe it was the F430) around a track, he couldn't better the lap times of some of the mere mortals' times when they utilized all of the electronic wizardry that Ferrari had on offer. Martin, you likely have a better memory of this than I?

You'll get what you're asking when a serious buyer comes in. The lowballers will ALWAYS try to claim it's worth $6.50. Stay firm mate. I paid $1250 and was stoked

Which rubbers do you mean exactly? I asked Nissan for genuine for the front and rear windscreens during my re-spray and was quoted roughly $660. Told them to go f**k themselves. Politely. Used a universal rubber mould and took great care to make it look good, and I'm happy with the result. However my rear quarter glass moulds are a bit shitty and unfortunately they are encapsulated (part of the glass) so no chance of replacing them. Sigh.

I have a set lying around somewhere in my shed if you want it. Got the box and everything. It's an Ebay set that required the removal of the needles to install but I simply left the front plastic cover off and set the speedo mid-drive. It reads accurately (as far as I'm aware) but the needles seem to "stick" a little in certain places. It's only marginally, and maybe some silicone lubricant would fix it, I just didn't want them anymore. I just put in LED bulbs behind the original and I'm happy with that, the white luminous dials are just too blingish for my tastes. And you can gradiate between a blue and green glow too, if that sort of shit floats your boat. PM me.

Out of curiosity, why the hell do you want to sell the rs4? Are you planning on upgrading to the rs6 or are you just mad? I would give my left nut to own one. Seriously, one left nut Good condition One careful owner No STDs Only used to ride girls from church on Sundays

Yeah I'm always tempted to modify these stickers when they're on the back of a falcodore ute. Real men drive utes. Real tools don't put anything in the tray cos it'll scratch the paint. And necessitate the removal of the hard tonneau cover. And it can't be heavy cos the carrying capacity is shite. Dropside trays are handy. Maloos are just silly. I still think a van is more practical.

Are stickers for products I don't have a good way to make reliable power?

Here! For god's sake man it took about 15 seconds to find this. Even less than it would take to find a mechanic or auto-leccy in the yellow pages Electric cooling fan stuff

The more appropriate question is: is it really that HEAVY? Read around some of the other threads on this and you'll discover that it's not a real weight saver. Skylines don't typically have that much sound deadening to begin with, if you want to track it full time then that may matter but with a daily driver there's a hell of a lot more stuff you could remove to save significantly more weight. I'm considering adding more sound deadening to mine to make it more pleasant in the cabin, so yes you can buy sheets that you simply apply with a heat gun in a few key areas. Remember that it's also low in the car and well spread, so its kilo shedding benefits will be minimal. Just be sure to not add cheap, large rims and overkill sized brakes as this unnecesssary unsprung weight will be far more detrimental to your car's performance than the sound deadening. Feel free to call me wrong though

Well Ben, you have officially been bumped to the top of my list of people who are legends. Thanks mate. Problem solved.

yes! I wondered what the hell that box was! We removed the aerial completely and filled the hole and I thought that was part of the aerial system. I don't recall actually unplugging it, unless simply unbolting it has stopped it from grounding or something. Thanks mate. I'll try that after work. If I get my car back for the weekend I'll owe you one

yes! I wondered what the hell that box was! We removed the aerial completely and filled the hole and I thought that was part of the aerial system. I don't recall actually unplugging it, unless simply unbolting it has stopped it from grounding or something. Thanks mate. I'll try that after work. If I get my car back for the weekend I'll owe you one

I honestly have no witty retort ready for that one. Yo mama jokes really are the bees knees of finishing moves. I'm a little disappointed in myself.

You've already stated in another thread that your RB20 dusts GTRs anyway, so I'd leave it at that. Go buy a Honda CBR900 then work on modifying that till it's as quick as your RB20

Cheers Moodles another easy check I can try tomorrow. I'll also clean the pod filter and all intake hoses thoroughly to eliminate another area. I just figured fresh fuel and system cleaner would show SOME change if the fuel was the issue.

I just remembered I also have a new O2 sensor ready to go but need the socket for removing it. Anyone know where to get one? Up in Cairns we only have Autobarn, AutoOne, Repco and Coventry so a part number from any of those stores would be great

Commodore brake lights! Always ONE. This is not just a knock at Commodores, it seems to be a genuine issue. Unless it's less than a year old, take a look at the next Commodore you see, and see if one of the brake lights is blown. I see it CONSTANTLY!

And yes, I've ONLY had trouble starting it once, when in the middle of a 3 lane highway. But that's more to do with Murphy's Law than anything else I suspect. EVERY other time I've tried, it's started no problem. Hot, cold, whatever. It just can't sit below 1000 rpm without sputtering out.

Ha! You forgot "cool story bro" before telling me the AAC was the most likely! It has the Mitsubishi CAS which I've learnt, from 4 days of reading, is possible to service. I also forgot to add other mods include adjustable exhaust cam gear, but I see it as less like that the CAS would suddenly be wrong. Then again, I only assume ignition because I've had motorbikes over the years which have had CDIs just not work after sitting for a while while I work on something else. I'm thinking connection/disconnection of the battery has killed something. I may have to actually join SAU Qld and meet up with some other owners here to borrow some bits. Like I said though, this stuff is all getting old. Brand new is not a bad idea unless you're really strapped for cash. cheers though, will do some more reading on CAS faults

Okay, I've been reading for 4 days now, and can't find an answer, so I'm going to have to ask. I don't like to ask because A) Someone says "do a search moron" B) This is going to take some typing, and I can't drink while typing, only read. sigh. Anyway, my R33 series 1 gtst has been getting re-sprayed, and only just got back together, after around 2 months of not moving. The battery was dead, so I removed it and charged it, checking first that this would not affect my PFC tune. All knowledgable parties assured me "No". When I started it up again, it ran fine at the higher idle speed of around 1200 rpm, but when it tried to drop back to its usual ~850 rpm, it stumbled and died. Ok, I thought, needs a bit of a run. Took it for a blast, pulled up at the lights in the middle of the main road, where it promptly died and would not re-start. Called my mate to come get me out of everyone's way, and figured fueling issue, as it simply would not start again. But after 5-10 mins of checking my first point of call, the fuse box (they were all fine) I tried starting it again and PRESTO! Drove it back to my mates place, keeping the revs above 1500rpm, and it died in his garage as soon as I let the revs drop again. Simple things first, the fuel in it (given that I very rarely drive it) would be at least 4 months old by now. It was tuned for 98, so maybe the fuel quality was just poor. I filled it with fresh 98 and some fuel system cleaner, just to see if it would make ANY difference. The answer, of course, was NO. The PFC hand controller showed readings of 250mv from the AFM, raising to around 2200mv with maybe 5000 rpm. I have no idea what these should be, so I hit the AFM with some co-contact cleaner. No change. I have cleaned my AAC before, but decided it was worth a try. Shiny and clean now. No change. Took out my spark plugs. Look the way they should, and all correctly gapped. Bought a new set anyway, they were old enough to warrant replacement, and $30 ain't exactly going to break the bank for that piece of mind. No change. I'm thinking of doing the coilpacks next, and maybe the igniter, this is the box on top of the valley cover, yes? Maybe even the wiring loom. My logic is that these things are now 18 years old, so while it may not fix the problem, it can't hurt to cross another item off the list of things to check and things on my car that are really bloody old, and I ain't living in destitute, so why not. However, the splitfires going for $415 on nengun won't exactly be on my doorstep tomorrow. While I have no qualm in waiting for them, my mate's wife may have a problem with her car staying out in the weather while mine takes up her garage. The engine has a slight "wobble" to it intermittently when running, around the 1500 rpm onwards mark, that I never noticed before, which is why I'm thinking a cylinder is not firing properly. That to me says electrical problem, but I suppose the injectors could be to blame too. Keep in mind I have had this car for roughly 6 years, and it has NEVER had a problem before I had it painted. I know, I broke a cardinal rule. I fu@#ed with something that wasn't broken, and now Murphy's Law is being imposed upon me. I took off the FMIC to spray it too, but given that the problem occurs off boost I doubt this has anything to do with it. I've checked all hoses and plugs, but ultimately the ONLY thing that was changed was that the battery was unplugged. Unless the paint is conducting bad joo-joo. Before you ask, NO, I have a standard plumb-back BOV. Mods are full exhaust, done years ago, FMIC, done years ago, PFC, done 6 months ago with no issues, boost tee running 12 psi, and a fair few braking and suspension mods. The handling department is at a stage where I'm happy to take the power to the next level, meaning that turbo, injectors, fuel pump and z32 AFM are the next upgrades. Hence, if you believe any of these may sort out the running issues (yeah, I'm sure a bigger turbo will make it all better) then I'm not afraid to replace them anyway, making this exercise slightly less daunting. Otherwise, give me your suggestions so I can at least get this out of my poor mates house. Sorry for the long post, I'll be surprised if many people read it anyway, which is why I didn't really bother posting sooner. Please feel free to make the first few replies somewhere in the order of: Cool story bro Brool story Co. Do a search Clean your AAC Reset your ECU Then please give me some actual help. Thanks guys.

^^^^^^^ Totally agree. That link shows exactly how i fixed mine, as it did what yours is doing (folds one way but not the other) The contacts were simply moving with the mirror shaft. A touch of supa glue later they're good as new. Took about half an hour.