Jarsky

This thread taught me a lot. I've been trying to find a hitch for my 350GT Sedan that I can carry my Ninja on the back but it has a weight of ~400lb (~500lb including the carrier); but I learnt that theres a thing called Tongue Weight (TW) which is downward force. This kind of setup tops out at 200lb (132lb / 60kg rated). Doesnt seem theres any setup thats readily available that bolts into the frame (I guess theres really no easy access to it) to be able to support a higher TW. This setup is considered a 'class 1' hitch, and while it has a ~2000lb Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), i'd need a 'class 3' hitch (up to 750lb TW) to carry a bike aka..it needs to bolt into the frame at multiple points. So unless I can get a custom one for a decent price (these are already like $600..i imagine a custom one fitted will be like $2k....1/4-1/5 the price of the whole car) then looks like i'd need a bike trailer (don't really want to be towing a trailer), or to switch cars for my daily unfortunately. The 350GT is a very thirsty car so maybe its not such a bad idea to look at selling as cool as it is....

I wasted so much money on the Frenchy's Performance Garage tool. I'm sure it's great if your balljoints are in good condition, but I ended up stripping the coupler nut, and bending the threads on the balljoint trying to use their removal tool. I basically ended up doing the exact same thing as this guide to remove mine, and they came out like butter. I used a torch to heat the knuckle up for around 60 seconds, and I used my 36mm axle nut socket as the retainer. I then used a thick washer on the back first, before putting a 14mm socket on the back to push it the rest of the way. This process took about 15-20 minutes per side, compared to the hours I spent trying different methods. Using the 36mm socket it has the dpeth that you don't need to grind the end of the balljoint off either.

My GTS-T was in storage for most of about 8 years, with some fuel in the tank. When the fuel gauge gets down to about 1/3 it just drops to E so after getting it running good again, and running some cleaner through the tank I decided to pull the fuel sender out to give it a clean....the thing is impossible to get off the bracket! I have no idea how ya'll managed to pry it off the bracket, I tried getting it off for more than 2 hours It's to tense to push down with fingers, and seems impossible to get a screwdriver in there to push the tab down, and fit a hand in there to slide the bracket at the same time

Hey guys, Hoping someone here has experience with Greddy Type-RS bov fitting. A bit of a silly question....but I recently bought this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400236068871?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2739wt_1163 to replace my stupidly oversized and loud Tiel bov. It uses the same adaptor and is the same size as the Greddy Type-RS as I've seen here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/333955-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-rb25det-greddy-type-rzrss-bov-adaptor/ Both say its 'simple' bolt on - which yeah it is, but im having trouble recirculating it. When I fit the adapter & Bov, it's either facing straight up, or straight down - with the recirc pipe, of course being down the side. The only thing I can think of is some sort of 90degree bend silicon hose to the recirculation pipe?

thats easy enough advice, but ive been searching for new outer tie rod ends for my R33 for some time, still no luck. from Nissan NZ they said NZ$200 per side ($400 wtf?!?!?!) so I've been trying to find aftermarket, with no luck what so ever. isnt really easy to just take them out and take them around the shops either given that half the hub assembly has to come apart to pop them out if i do have to end up spending that ridiculous amount of $$$ to nissan for such parts, im thinking of looking at the driftworks eliminator kit which isnt much more.

only just got the car home last night (towed it home myself after 2 tow trucks did a no show) decided to put it in diagnostic mode, unfortunately returned code 55 telling me everything is fine next step....check the fuel pump & spark

thanks Craig - will try that when I get the car home (decided to get it towed home from work), someone else also suggested I try that to check the fuel pump is working. and yeah - the engine is 'shaking' when I turn the key and starter is spinning quite hard (starter is only about 4 months old) making a 'RARARARARARA!!!' noise, so from what I can tell the starter motor is cranking the engine - but seems to be either a lack of fuel or a lack of spark. im leaning towards fuel as I can't hear the fuel pump priming - so i think that will be my first place to check

wouldn't run anything over 12PSI max on standard turbo - you'll shatter the turbine at more than that, then you'll be asking yourself 'was the extra 1PSI worth it?'

d1rtyrb - car modification laws vary state to state in AUS, but are generally much stricter than what we have in NZ. in NZ you can certify practically any modification, as long as its safe (certified) and meets emission standards. In AUS, all modifications need to be ceritifed by an engineer, and you are limited in same ways to what you can actually do (e.g power/weight restrictions, noise restrictions, etc...) - it's just a No, period. Also correct about the wof thing, things work differently in AUS - but in AUS it costs a LOT more to have a car on the road as it does in NZ. Make sure if you are going to modify a car in AUS that you consult with an engineer as you go along, that is the easiest way - and will avoid some majorly hefty fines (penalty's for illegally modified cars are much higher in aus than nz) and remember if you're unsure if its legal or not, it probably isnt

what about turbo'ing your XR8? they can put out some decent power with a forced induction upgrade have to say as far as R34's go, would have to be one of the best automatic transmission cars i've ever driven - you can feel the power right there, the transmissions dont feel all sloppy like most other cars, and the power converter seems to deliver quite a smooth change. fuel economy wise, i can do probably just under 500km to a tank on open road driving - no idea around town as i tend to have a bit of a heavy foot around town mines also needs the O2 sensor replaced and is up around 160k, so probably isn't running as economical as it could be. I do find though (most likely because of the diff) the final drive ratio is a little bit high for cruising @ 100k - the rpm sits a bit high for long distance driving, makes it easy for overtaking - but can be a little annoying cruising at such a high rpm. 2 of my mates also have r33 gts25t's so I know it definately isn't my car, it's just how they are.

Hey Guys, I've never had a problem with my latest skyline....until today I drove it to work this morning just fine, try to go out and get some lunch and now it just wont start. The starter is going nice and strong so it definately isn't an issue there or with the battery - but I can't hear it trying to turn at all. I've checked the fuel pump fuse which is good and checked the lines aren't leaking or anything - all the fuel lines look good. Is it most likely going to be the fuel pump has died? Could it be an electrical problem as well? any help appreciated - currently stuck at work

Last year I removed the HICAS setup from my S2 R33. I've since tried to get my new warrant to have it on the road but was failed due to 'excessive play' from the rear tie rods. After jacking up the car and giving the wheels a wiggle left to right I can see that there is play in the tie rod. How can I fix this? Does it just need new tierod ends? Do I need to replace the entire tie rod? or is there something I can do to the existing ones to fix this? Never really played around with this stuff before so any answers would be great. Also how hard is it to replace these? Have most of the basic tools

Hey Guys, Just wondering if anyone knows the Nissan Part number for the rain guard that runs across the top of the drivers side window? R33 GTS25t Coupe. Also does anyone know how much these cost? mine snapped off driving down the highway from a small crack