Raki_King

Hey guys, Just a quick question.. Some skyline parts are interchangable between the series, are driveshafts a case of this, Is the R32 coupe and four door same length? or R34 -R33 Coupes to four doors the same? I have a mate who has done a manual conversion in his 34 which is a four door but he is having a hard time finding a driveshaft from a 34 four door so I have kindly lent him mine to get his going but im wanting to get it back in a few weeks but he isnt having any luck locating a driveshaft so we are thinking of looking outside the 34 range and wondering if a 33 sedan or even something in the 32's would do the job. Any input is much appreciated, Cheers

Hey there, These guys know what they are talking about with these chinese intercoolers...Sell your evo one and get one that will save you money and not look like an eyesore on your car. I drive a 260rwkw R34 with a Redline performance intercooler which from memory I purchased for $370 including the piping joiners and evrything. It was about 3 hours (beers included) to install. check out the Redline performance website for more information about them, they are a nice quality kit and there was very little trimming of the front bar. I even had my car certified with the reo trimmed and he couldnt have cared less.

Hey there, this link should help you out...Linky Its a 5 minute job and will save all the hassle of moving stuff around

You say that you run up to 1 bar of boost, Thats 14.5 psi which is sort of max boost to run on a standard im guessing, turbo...It may be that you have lost the exhaust wheel into your cat ect.....I may be wrong though.

I certainly do, I have an 1998 R34 with driver and passenger airbags...

It shouldnt need a cert unless you completely chop apart the frontal impact steel and reinforcing otherwise it will be fine, I recently had my car certed and although it wasnt required, he checked the fmic while he was there... And it is not mentioned on my cert plate. also a fmic is not all that heavy, so I cant imagine weight making all that much difference, Eg...A full carload of people with a full tank and a boot full of stuff would affect the handling of the car a lot more.....

I hate to sound rude mate but firstly a cert is not $400 it is actually $550 and secondly who told you you needed a cert? A cert is not required for a fmic or any other basic mod... I picked my fmic up from redline performance for roughly $350 including the piping kit.

Thanks for the replies guys, my mate has the exactally the same mods as me in his 34 and it runs perfectly with no missing at all.. I dont have coils due to the fact that I am running the wasted spark kit, I am not hitting r and r and I am looking at possibly nistune in the future but an identical car with identical mods and mine missfiring, and his isnt leads me to believe that this is curable without nistune for now...

Hey guys Roughly a year ago I completed a motor conversion into my 4 door 34, which I also converted to manual. I used a neo 25det from a wgc34 stagea (automatic) Which runs beautifully.... My problem is up until a few weeks ago i was running straight of the actuator 5psi. I now bought an older style electronic boost controller and have upped it to 7psi which also runs mint. Now...the minute I go over 7psi i get the typical skyline 5000-6000 miss but in my endeavours to fix it I have come up empty handed... I have done all the usual, New walbro fuel pump, gapped plugs to 0.8, running wasted spark kit, checked all lines for leaks etc...and I have also spent weeks looking over topics here and still have nothing, I was wondering if you guys might shed some light on the situation. Thanks in advance.

Wow, I wasnt aware of that, My appologies... The thought never really crossed my mind, Things are way more relaxed here in New Zealand, I dont even run a cat in mine. The police here in Hastings are more interested in people who are drink driving or actually making the roads more dangerous for people to drive on.

Not without physically taking it out and looking down it, You should be pretty sweet for any checks the police do on it.

Very interesting to know....I have always wondered how it was pronounced. Cheers

Hey guys, I have an R34 with a 25det neo with fmic, pod, ebc, exhaust and im running the standard ecu. My issue is that im getting a miss at about 1000rpm when im in neutral with approx 5-9% throttle. its a quite noticable pop-pop-pop with no smoke from exhaust, also when im slowly moving in first, again with very low throttle percentage i get the miss,which quickly goes away with some more throttle, I am getting coils replaced soon and have recently done plugs less than 500kms ago and same with oil, coolant etc. Would the coils be the cause of this issue or could there be another problem that I have overlooked... Thanks in advance,

Hey guys, Another one here...Im from Hastings and I drive an R34 GT converted to a GTT with Motor conversion, My plate is SIKSKY.

Hey mate, I use a Z442 on my R34 RB25DET, Here in New Zealand the recommended filter for most rb's are the Z101 but the Z101 doesnt fit on the 25 on the 34's I cant remember exactally what it is but it hits on something so the smaller filter is perfect.

I realise this is more than likely totally unrelated but I believe you have a vacuum leak next to the red hose in the last pic, there is nothing on the end of the connector, Cause maybe?

So nobody knows? Someone has to know.

Hey guys Just wondering if the fuelpump in an r34 gt (20de) is the same unit as the gtt (25det) or is it completely diffrent, Is there somewhere I can find the part numbers or if someone could let me know then that would be awesome, Cheers

My main concern is actually the part numbers of the fuel pump that is in the 20de and the pump that is suppose to be in the 25det does anyone know where I can find the numbers of both so I can tell if they are the same unit,

Hey guys, I have recently got my r34 sedan which had a 20DE, running with a RB25DET Neo out of a stagea, Everything is running mint except the fuel gauge, I have exactally 3/4 Tank and as I am driving it drops right down to "E" with fuel light on then it sometimes rises to somewhere on the scale then back to 3/4 again. and basically it appears to have a mind of its own. and yet if I turn the engine off and wait a minute before restarting it it returns to 3/4, Any ideas? I havnt changed the fuel pump for the turbo motor that I have put in, can anyone tell me if the 34 RB20DE fuel pump is different to the 34 GTT and Stagea 25DET? and also if that had anything to do with the above problem, Cheers

Im not exactally sure, I had a mate do the entire conversion for me, will have a look in the morning, where would this canister be in the engine bay? Also it was a complete engine swap, the turbo, oil lines etc were already in place.

It was definately a 20, A mate also has a 20 in his r34, Cheers for the help will start looking them through tomorrow. really hoping its a simple fix as I have already poured thousands into the car in the past month.

Hey guys, I have recently finished an engine conversion from a 20de to a 25det in my r34, After driving it for about a week just coming off the dump pipe I put it into the workshop yesterday to have a full exhaust system installed, Anyways....I started the car first thing this morning and pulled out of my driveway and proceded to town, When I got home my sister informed me that the car was smoking in first gear, white smoke and she said a wee bit into second but not as bad. So I had a wee look around the car and found an oily residue inside the exhaust pipe, Im thinking turbo? after that I did a few searches here on SAU and have drawn a blank. Im guessing its the turbo but it still boosts as it should and apears to be working fine... Any suggestions as to what I can do? Cheers,

Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it but we have found the issue...Im not exactally sure what the problem was but I am told that it had to do with the speed cut. basically they sed that the ecu was thinking that the car was travelling a lot faster then it actually was eg.. 190kph so....long story short, a wire was chopped and the car is now fixed... Thanks Again,

The diagnostics are telling us that it is building voltage as it should when accellerating but the minute you plant foot it hits 5v and it cuts out. We have compared voltages and everything to the gtt that we had with us yesterday and everything is identical....