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RBceffy25

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About RBceffy25

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gold Coast

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  • Car(s)
    A31,S13,C33
  • Real Name
    Adam

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  1. For sale is a not often seen Saito Achieve 7-point full cage. Comes with padding. No bolts. $600 ono Pickup Gold Coast or alternatively, can arrange to meet around brissie somewhere. dm or message me on 0420755995
  2. There are a few good relay test videos on you tube. As far as the pump wiring goes I recommend you do a search for direct power feed for fuel pump in here. Do you plan to do any mods or is the car already modified from standard? What pump are you running?
  3. Gotcha Yeah, I'll try to dig up my brothers dyno before he went e85 just for a comparison. I think he made around 260. When he did go e85 his GTRS put out a very impressive 300kw. At this point though he had a revised straight through exhaust, revised fmic plumbing, GTR itb's and hpi manifold. Maybe he can chime in as well and confirm or correct that info haha. Yeah man the rest of the car i.e. Brakes, suspension, driveline, charging system, fuel system etc was done before the motor even went in. I've entirely built the car up myself with one goal in mind and that is to have a safe, reliable and somewhat comfortable street car I can daily without worry of defects while maximising response and drivability. The rest of my setup consists of an Apexi super suction kit into the ax53b70 out through 2.5inch cooler piping through a HDi GT2 core into standard intake with a stocko r33 gtr bov. Probably the biggest let down is the shitload of intercooler plumbing required with the crossover plenum etc. and I'm not sure how the HDi cores stack up to the other brand name stuff but it was new sitting on the shelf so wasn't going to waste. There are plenty of things I'd like to do with it but I'm at a point where I figure if I can get that 10kw more out of it cheaply I will, otherwise I'll just drive and enjoy it as I feel the chapter of this car is almost done in my life and I would rather turn my attention (and wallet 😖) to another project in the future. We said goodbye yesterday to Gary Snow of Tokage Racing Imports who sadly lost his battle with cancer earlier in the week. He imported this chassis for me when I was 20 (now 30) so it's become something of sentimental value to me and my friends and family. Perhaps as a last throw I'll put another set of injectors in it on e85 down the track when i retire it from daily duties.
  4. I mentioned cams in the first post. Type b poncams. Not sure what you mean by punching extra boost but yeah my tune is at 16psi which along with the cams would account for the fatter midrange etc. and the other guy is 15-15.5psi. My tuner tried a run at 18 psi to see if it would still fall off at the same point - which it did so he backed off. But with my engine being a cammed Neo I would expect it to make a little more midrange and top end. My brothers motor, a 25 s1 with poncams and supporting mods etc running a hks gt-rs kit - which is verily similarly spec'd to the Apexi. I think he had similar dramas until he sorted the exhaust and may have swapped actuators then had a sweet flat boost curve. Will have to confirm that with him though. He is losing 1 psi overall from around 5500 onwards whereas I'm dropping 4psi overall. Our boost curves are quite different in this regard and is my main point of focus. This keeps bringing me back to potential back pressure issues which I'm suspecting might be either blowing the gate open and/or restricting flow. I'm not interested in big numbers at this time as it's internally standard bar the cams and will be my daily for at least the next 12 months. All I want to achieve is a flatter, more consistent boost curve, find out what it yields and find out if I can achieve this by making the entire system as efficient as possible. If the turbine pressure test and fully unrestricted exhaust reveal nothing I'll concede defeat haha.
  5. On that note, can anyone recommend an unrestricted muffler? Preferably jap brand
  6. Is is making more power with more boost. The boost is falling of causing the power to flatten out. Looking at the curve, I believe there is a little more in it if boost holds steady. Compare this old sheet I found with mine. His is a 25 s1 with same supporting mods minus cams. The tune needs a slight touch up for idle/cruise as we ran out of time on the day so when I put it back on the dyno I'll bung into the turbine housing for a pressure reading. I'm also going to delete the straight through resonator and put a more free flowing muffler on it before it goes back on. I have wondered wether my cams are a tad big for the turbo but I'll continue to go through a process of elimination before I consider it more seriously.
  7. Have not dropped the exhaust as it was only making 2psi back pressure. Makes just under 320rwhp with boost dropping off. It has the Apexi/ihi actuator on it that comes with the turbo. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think they have a 14psi spring. We haven't played with the preload as we were running out of time but looking at the green curve (sp1, boost control off) i think it needs more preload than readjust the ebc to suit. However I would think that this should not cause the boost to drop off. The pink curve, he put a bit more boost into it to see what was happening but backed off early when it started losing power. Sorry for the crappy pic
  8. Hey I recently had my 25det Neo on the dyno. Won't hold boost after about 5500. Apexi ax53b70 on 16psi with standard manifold, 3in bellmouth dump into KTS dual front pipe into 3in flex pipe into 3in stainless catback which measured 2psi of pressure at the o2 bung in the dump at full noise on a power run. Worth noting it's running type b poncams, standard cam gears. We checked the bov (r33 gtr item) for leak on the dyno and the intake plumbing had 25psi plumped into it before dyno to check boost leaks etc. It seems to me the wastegate is blowing open so I'm thinking of plumbing into the turbine housing to check this as it has a bung I've got a bolt in, blocking it off. Any help or advice at this point would be greatly appreciated, will provide pics of dyno sheet upon request, if desired. edit: forgot to mention it's running a new turbosmart eboost street ebc.
  9. Yeah figured it out. There are two distribution/damper blocks on the rack around the pinion, one for the hicas circuit and one for the main steering circuit. I had to swap a line from the hicas block into the main block. Sorted. However, now it's shuddering like buggery through the wheel when I lock left but smooth when I lock right....???
  10. Then I must have removed something you did not. After completely removing the hicas and the associated lines I was left with open threads in the steering rack and a hardline t-section going to nowhere. Might be time to go back through the box full of stuff I removed. What did you do with the second high pressure line from the pump?
  11. I have a 25neo motor in my A31 with the Neo non hicas power steering pump. I have completely deleted the hicas and grub screwed the steering rack. Where there was a feed to the hicas pump, I installed a return line feeding back to the reservoir. I filled the reservoir with fluid, turned the wheels several times, topped up the fluid then started the engine. While the engine is running the rack completely locks up an I can't turn the wheel at all. Also the fluid is heating up rather quickly. When I shut it down I can turn the wheel normally. Any ideas what the issue is??
  12. The mocal plate came with the Hel group buy kit I bought on SAU eons ago so I'm trying to get away with what I've got on the shelf. All ive done is add a greddy remote mount kit on the top of it which comes with its own lines so really all Iv done is extent ended the oil filter from the mocal to the strut tower and the up side is it has threads for pressure/temp senders etc in the greddy gear. Thoughts?
  13. As the title implies, would I have any potential issues if I were to run a mocal sandwich plate to oil cooler and piggy back a greddy relocation kit on top of it?
  14. This is my experience with plenums etc.... My Old RB25 with standard Intake plenum, fmic, turbo back 3in ex, elec. boost control, PFC, standard turbo was good, nice and responsive with good low end pull. My brothers RB25 with Greddy copy plenum, fmic, turbo back 3in ex, elec. boost control, PFC, standard turbo/then NEO turbo was fantastic, even more boost responsive and felt like it had even more pull. So, front facing plenum with all it associated factors - less pipework etc. - was a noticeable improvement on boost response, which I feel negated any potential loss in torque. It then went to GTR plenum and itb's, fmic, turbo back 3in ex, elec. boost control, PFC, HKS GTRS and poncams and four degrees of ex cam retard on PULP which was amazing. The snappy response from both turbo and throttle was amazing. The seat of the pants feel was fantastic. As soon as you touched the throttle it was so angry and torquey with a tiny bit of lag over the previous setups, obviously due to the larger turbo. Then, identical setup but with E85. Same response with more overall power, of course. With this setup it made 110rwhp and 7psi at 3k then 175rwhp and 12.5 at 3.5k Then, in the quest for ever more response, we setup a home made smoke machine test to find any and all boost leaks, which the were several tiny ones all over the place. The previous setup was retained - GTR plenum and itb's, fmic, turbo back 3in ex, elec. boost control, PFC, HKS GTRS and poncams, ex cam back to zero and no boost leaks. The result is incredible. It made a couple HP less peak - I think due to the cam timing change - but gained response, power and torque pretty much everywhere else. It now makes 140rwhp and 10psi at 3k then 240rwhp and 19psi at 3.5k which in real word terms feel absolutely incredible on the road. In my experience, I honestly think the gains outweigh and overshadow any loss as far as plenums go. But, as WARLORD said, its definitely down to the entire setup. The sum of all the parts and attention to fine details make the whole. So, I think front facing plenums are a good thing provided the rest of the setup is in good order and refined. I cant say enough good about the GTR ITB setup. I dont think it lost anything anywhere (torque,power) but then we never compared that exact setup with standard runners/plenum etc. The itb's really made the car feel soooo so responsive and just angry..... and the sound! Just awesome! I personally have not experienced a Plazmaman fitted car so I can't comment on them. Also, I strongly recommend to anyone to do a leak test of your intake plumbing. I thought my bro was being OCD pedantic but the results sure surprised me. I think there is another fella on here with a very similar setup who did the same thing and gained likewise results. At the end of the day I guess it depends on whether your a numbers man and obsess over every lost/gained figure on a dyno printout or if you just want to drive the car and feel the differences. Just my two cents... End rant.
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