Hanaldo

Well Power FC is a defect anyway so not like that really matters. I have oil temp, water temp, oil pressure and boost. All pretty vital, and when I'm warming the car up I don't give the car more than half throttle until oil temperature is at 80 degrees and oil pressure is sitting just above 60psi. I have an ARK MFD in my car as well as the guages, the screen would be a bit bigger than that on a PFC hand controller but I still find it impossible to read while driving. I mainly use it's peak recall and alert settings to check up on things.

Ah ok, I assumed they were the same as an 044. Just standard insulated wire will be fine. Make sure you use heatshrink to cover up any exposed wires, you certainly don't want any sparks in there. As for wiring off the battery, it made a huge difference to my pump. There is a DIY for it in the FI reference guide if you have a look in there.

Pretty much all you do is replace the stock pump with the new pump, it's very easy. Just make sure you don't get the polarities wrong like I did, the pump will run in reverse and not work. Also are you planning on rewiring the pup to run direct off the battery? Highly recommend that you do...

Not sure if you can get them locally, I got mine online. Can use an ECUTalk cable http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx Or a PLMS cable http://www.nistune.c...orm.php#formtop Would go with the PLMS cable personally.

I watched the video but how do i know if the wastegate is fully shut? And how do I know where to adjust it to? Yeh I didn't actually see it running with the 02 sensor connected so I'm not 100% sure what he means, he just said the car idled badly and refused to rev when the 02 sensor was plugged in. Not sure if that has anything to do with the issue or if the sensor is just stuffed, he told me not to worry about it because he tuned around it anyway.

Well the intercooler piping needed to be done because the turbo didn't fit with what was on the car. I put the 25DET engine in my car, it was originally an NA so it never had the standard piping. Used the piping that came with the FMIC kit and that didn't fit with the turbo so it needed to be custom made. I was always going to get the hard intake pipe made. Labour to install the injectors was like $60, they were straight plug and play so didn't cost much. I'm not saying I have wasted every penny of that $4000, as you said the only real waste has been time spent on the dyno. Other than that I have just needed to spend a lot more than I thought I would. Knew I had forgotten something, I've got Splitfire coilpacks as well. Yeh I do agree, I'm not overly concerned with the number it spits out. But the car doesn't feel fast. It feels laggy coming onto boost and lazy on full boost. I hardly noticed a difference over the stock turbo except it is much more laggy. Rolls, haven't checked the manifold for cracks. As you said, it doesn't really seem related to the issue. I'll have a look anyway though. I also doubt it is an issue with the wastegate given that when run at 16psi it holds fine. The graph still confuses me, if you compare it to other ATR graphs then you can almost follow the same curve up to 4000rpm and then it just hits a wall and stops making power. If nobody can think of anything that we haven't already tried then I would gladly take Stao up on his offer. If I do take him up on that, am I fine swapping the turbo myself and driving it to my tuner (wouldn't boost it), or would it be better to get Andrew to swap the turbos?

Thanks Trozzle, I'll PM him. Anyone know of anyone running a more similar setup to mine? I'll talk to Simon but it's a bit hard to compare an RB20 running on E42 and what I imagine is an ATR43G3 to an RB25 Neo on Pump 98 with a G2 profile...

Yeh don't get me wrong here, I'm not trying to bag out Hypergear. Stao has been very helpful in trying to sort out this whole thing, I respect him a lot for that. The customer service is amazing. I thought my requests were fair, I just want to see someones results over here in Perth so I can get an idea of how it should be. I am open to suggestions of what could be wrong other than the turbo. My tuner, Andrew, (from here on in going to just call him by his name, writing 'my tuner' all the time is getting old lol) and I have been trying things to see if it makes a difference but nothing we do changes anything. Andrew tried getting advice from another respected tuner in Perth (Mick at Ovaboost for those in the know) to see if he had any ideas, but he couldn't get any different results either. Andrew told me from the start that he didn't think the turbo would be very good, I was very keen to prove him wrong based on the results I have seen on here. He believes the results I have seen were obtained on a hub dyno and as such I will not be able to get similar figures. I told him not to worry about the final number so much, I really just wanted a nicely shaped power curve. The turbo has so far cost me $3950, that's including time on the dyno trying to get it sorted not just installing it. Installation and initial tune cost me $1600 including complete custom intake and intercooler plumbing. I had to get everything custom made, not just the hard intake pipe. Since then it has cost me $700 in dyno time and $200 in labor time. My setup details: Stock standard RB25DET Neo PWR 650CC injectors Walbro GSS-342 (rewired to run direct from battery) Greddy FMIC Full 3" turbo back straight cut custom exhaust with high flow cat and bellmouth dump pipe (Was actually quieter without the exhaust on, and as results show there is no restriction here) Apexi pod filter Z32 AFM 3" custom metal intake pipe Stock GTR bov NGK Iridiums gapped to 0.8mm Greddy Profec II EBC ATR43G2 .63 NIStune ECU I think that's it... Injectors are fine, had them ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested and they came up at 98-99% across all 6. Andrew did try pulling timing to stop it pinging but it just didn't want to make more power, the power dipped when he pulled timing no matter how much boost he ran. Another strange thing, my O2 sensor just won't work with the new turbo. Andrew has disconnected it and tuned around it because the car just won't run with it connected.

Fair enough offer mate, I appreciate that. Very hard for me to take you up on though, my car is my daily. Removing my turbo and then sending it away to you and waiting for the new turbo to arrive, means I won't have a car for at least 2 weeks. Given I drive 2hrs to uni everyday, I won't be able to go without a car for that long. I think I just have to cop this result and move on.

That page 63 chart is in Canberra, page 64 chart and video is from Queensland? Also, no idea on what version .63 rear it is using. I bought it back in November?

Hyperdrives dyno is known to read a bit lower, I'm not so worried about the number. If I look in the WA power registry at graphs of cars with similar mods to mine when it had the stock turbo they also only made about 250rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics dyno. That's why I want to see someone from Perth using one of these turbos, so I can see how they went with it. What I'm disappointed with is the seat of the pants feeling. It doesn't feel fast. It feels like the graph looks, you can feel the turbo at 4000rpm and then it just goes flat and feels like it has stopped boosting. It doesn't hold boost very well, even using the wastegate studs and with the high pressure actuator and Greddy Profec 2. I don't know where else to look except at the turbo. We have checked everything that could cause it to hit a wall and flatten out like that. The only thing left to try would be to unbolt the turbo and try a different one, but quite frankly I'm annoyed at having spent so much money on this turbo as is. All my intake piping had to be custom made to make this turbo fit, now I would have to redo all that if I want to fit a different turbo. Looking back, this turbo hasn't achieved any of the objectives I bought it for. I wanted a cost effective alternative to one of the big brand name Jap turbos, but now this turbo has cost me more than what I would have paid for a HKS or Garrett. I wanted something that bolted onto the stock setup and looked relatively stock, but that went out the window with all the custom piping, now the turbo is the first thing you notice when you open the bonnet. And I wanted a turbo that was responsive and could make at least 350rwhp. No comment needed.

Is there anyone on here from Perth using an ATR turbo that can show me their results? Had a look in the RB25 turbo upgrade thread but couldn't find any posts from Perth. I want to see these figures on a Dyno Dynamics dyno.

Right, well I finally got my car back from my tuner today. It had been with him for the last 2 days while he tried to figure out what was going on with my car. Some of you may have seen the dyno chart I posted of my car back when I first got my ATR43G2 installed and tuned. This is that graph of how things were when I first got it back: So I eventually got my car back in yesterday for my tuner to drop the exhaust and check the tune. Basically it made no difference, this is the chart of the run done without the exhaust: (It's a bit hard to read, but the number up the top says 295rwhp@ 16psi) He tried doing multiple runs with and without the exhaust without much difference between them. He also looked for vacuum leaks or anything that could be causing similar effects before deciding that my car is in perfect running condition. He did a compression test on the engine which came up as 165psi across all 6 cylinders (give or take 2psi). Did a pressure test across the intercooler but said that was no issue. He tried running more boost but said it just caused the engine to ping because the turbo built up so much heat. He just couldn't change the result no matter what he tried. So really I'm still left highly disappointed with the result. I'm not going to pursue this any further, this turbo has already cost me over $4000 including dyno time. I'm done with it, going to go in a different direction now.

Yeh I said knock control not knock sensors. If your engine is knocking then the power fc won't do anything to stop it, it will just flash a little light at you. Nistune will switch to a knock map automatically.

Well NIStune software is very user friendly, I know most tuners in Perth don't mind tuning it. I think they are both widely supported. The hand controller is very useful for the Power FC, you can do the same thing with NIStune using a laptop but it's not very convenient lol. Only thing I don't like about Power FC is it has no knock control. I imagine not too big a deal if you have a hand controller, but if you don't then your engine could be pinging it's head off and you wouldn't even realise until it was too late.

I didn't make my own choice based on my own opinion at all. I spoke to the person I wanted to tune my car and went with what he told me to get. End of the day the tune is what counts, you're not going to make any more power just running a Power FC over a NIStune. Pick a tuner, then pick an ECU to suit them.

Just go by their website: http://clutchfinder.exedy.com.au/

Dude, I have done this exact thing... My advice, sell up and buy a factory GTT. Doing the engine swap is a huge headfuck. Nothing ever goes to plan or to budget. I started out with a $5000 budget, and ended up paying roughly $10000 by the time everything was finished and back on the road. All up, it took about 5 months to be completed, including waiting for the donor car to arrive from Japan. To break it down for you: Written off R34 donor car is the best way of going about this as you will need the gearbox (because the RB20 box is a piece of shit), driveshaft and diff because the GT driveshaft won't fit and the GT diff has different ratios. So you need to find an R34 with front-end damage. This cost me $4000, came from Japan with 61000kms on the clock. Then you need a pull type clutch to suit the new gearbox, I went with an Exedy Ceramic which costed me $1250. You will also need to supply FMIC, fuel pump, radiator, and boost controller. That there cost me another ~2k. If you are not doing the swap yourself, labor is going to set you back about $3000. This was the major headfuck part, waiting on the garage to do the work for me. My car was with them for about a month and I am still finding random problems like incorrect wiring for the boost sensor and incorrect installation of the knock sensors which has costed me more money because it has wasted valuable time on the dyno while my tuner tried to sort it out. After the conversion was done, I had to splash out a bit more on getting a good exhaust system as my old exhaust was a 2.5" designed for the NA. I was lucky in the fact that my car already had the brakes and suspension upgraded so I didn't have to spend any money there (although I did splash out and get coilovers anyway). If your car still has the stock GT brakes then you NEED to upgrade them at the same time. I've probably forgotten a couple of things I needed to do as well. All in all, unless your car has already been modded so that it is beyond value of what a similar spec GTT would cost (this was the case with mine), then sell the GT and buy a GTT. Save yourself the headaches. I didn't listen to everyone telling me this and it costed me a lot of money and time. For your power target, you are also going to need to spend another few thousand on turbo, injectors, ECU, etc, etc, etc.... The list goes on.

Lol yeh was definitely a joke :P

Yeh oil definitely spills out (unless you have a thermostat inline). Discovered that when I installed my new gauges, took the blanking bolt out of the sandwich plate and oil went everywhere... Was ready for it though, jammed the new sensor in there quick smart. As above, I would wait until you do your next service.

Borrow some wheels from someone which have huge tyre profile lol.

+1 Given that neither your boost gauge or your boost controller are working correctly, you could have a vacuum leak. Would explain cutting out at 5000rpm and the backfiring.

Don't need a spray booth for using aerosol cans lol.

Those prices are great! Might have to get in there when I respray my car, better than doing it in my garage again

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