GTRjames30

Decided to go with the Bosch 044 fuel pump with appropriate fittings, my buddy who is helping me with this project and has also completely rebuilt his gtr recommeneded me it. Also, picked up a Reimax gear set for the oil pump which should solve the N1 oil pump problem. Hope I have everything ready to go as I hate waiting on parts when things could be put back into the car (kinda impatient lol). Does anyone know how to figure out what year the engine is? Anyone use/have FAST? block plate number is 034837A and if i'm not mistaken that seems pretty close to when nissan addressed the crank/oil drive issue, correct?

Decided to go ahead a purchase some CP forged pistons. I'm kinda stuck on the fuel pump though. I have done alot of searching and research and it seems to me that with the injectors I have and the boost I'll be hitting, a 300lph fuel pump will be enough for me. I've found an apexi fuel pump that looks good, anyone have experience with these?

the reason why I didn't go with complete forged internals, etc was because I wasn't originally planning on doing a build lol. I bought the upgraded turbos but at the same time the engine was making a strange knocking sound so I decided to try to find the issue before going with better turbo's. Turns out that everything was in good order throughout the engine so I just decided, with the budget I somewhat had, to change things that needed to be changed while the engine was in pieces. I was told by my machine shop that the pistons and rods are in great shape so they only honed and cleaned everything. So new rings and bearings/bolts are changing in the bottom end. I wish I could have completely redone the bottom end and head but its not my time right now As for the oil pump, I already have the N1 waiting to be put in but I purchased a crank collar to be certain the clearances between the crank and the oil pump aren't too loose. Fuel pump isn't ordered yet so i'll look for a 350lph pump, any suggestions on makes? Also, does anyone on here have access to FAST, spent a good portion of my day trying to find what year my block is to see if the crank issue was resolved in my block. engine block number is 034837A.

My mistake, I'm knew to this forum and didn't realize there was a dyno thread, very cool! Thanks guys.

Just want to know what WHP numbers I should expect or can acheive with my build (r32 GTR).. Here's the list of what my build will have: Completely torn down and cleaned block ACL race bearing (conrod,main,big end) ARP bolts (conrod,main,big end) Crank Collar for oil drive clearence issue machined onto stock crank Stock pistons/rings and rods ARP head studs stock head (cleaned and minor port/polish) Tomei poncams type b GT2860-5's turbos Tomei Manifolds Tomei dumps Nismo downpipe with veilside catback (deleted cat) N1 oil pump N1 water pump Tomie timing belt New OEM tensioner/spring Complete gasket kit 750cc injectors 280lph fuel pump (not sure what company yet) Power fc d-jetro with MAP sensors After market I/C (not sure what make) HKS oil relocation + oil cooler HKS hard pipe kit Split fire coil pack Nismo coppermix twin plate clutch Hope I haven't missed anything. I would like to know what are my options in WHP, meaning reliable whp, max whp, etc. Thanks!

Yeah thats a good call on the machine shop, I don't want to take any chances. Thanks! I'll be hopefully bringing it to a machine shop asap.

Yeah I don't think its pins as well. Checked everything tonight and I have a strong feeling its the con rod bearings. They aren't in horrible shape but theres some play in them. I'm not too sure if I can order the STD 0 bearings since my crank is used and could be a bit worn down so i'm doing a plastigauge test on them to see what size bearings to get. my question is could i accomplish a main bearing install myself or should I leave that to a machine shop?

Yeah I was looking for that too but there aren't any signs of wear or problems anywhere. I've personally only put about 6-10K km's on the car since I purchased it (insurance reasons mostly for the lack of driving, canada is horrible for RHD insurance!) and I never really drove it hard, just the occasional gives. STD pistons

Yeah I thought there would be metal shavings in the oil if it was a spun bearing as well. But there was nothing, oil was clean. It smelt of fuel in the oil but that was probably because it had a leak in the intake gasket and was running rich a long time ago, also if the #6 spark plug wasn't firing then it would saturate the cylinder with fuel too. Well i'm still leaning towards just replacing bearings with new ones for my own sake. Shouldn't be too hard to do a job like that. How would I check the gudgeon pin?

Thanks for the comments/help! Its an rb26 and I've decided to take it somewhat apart and change somethings. I didn't really want to go through the wait and process of machine work, etc. Was just thinking of changing bearings and rod bolts as everything else seems fine. Saves my budget a bit too lol. I'll be checking bearings in the near future and let you know what I find...hopefully something or I will still be very confused lol. If anyone thinks of anything else that could be possibly doing this please let me know, its greatly appreciated.

Checked all bearings and they're all strong with no play or anything. Even my mechanic/buddy was confused on this one. Is there a way of checking for a spun bearing other then feeling/moving them around with your hand? Don't want to take apart the block if I don't have to.

So I'll try to make this as short as possible. When my engine is running there is a knocking sounds coming from the engine (I think the back, 6th cylinder area). It's really noticeable when the engine is cold and seems to get a BIT better when its warm. Also, it's alot more defined at lower rpm and harder to hear at higher rpm and the knocking follows the rpm's. So basically I figured piston slap, rod knock, etc. So I started by taking the head off to find nothing wrong with the head except for the #6 spark plug was extremely crooked by previous owner (almost 45 degree angel!) and was barely showing on the inside of the head (figured it was either not getting a spark at all or just a faint spark). Also, the top of the bottem end was in perfect shape, no scuffs or detonation. So now I took the bottom end out to check underneath and to my surprise, the bottom end is perfectly fine. No shot bearings, loose crank, nothing. So I'm extememly confused as to what this knocking sound is and where it's coming from? Has anyone on here experienced the same or similar problem? ANY help would be great!