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the_jack

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  1. Bump. Parts still for sale. I dont come on here much anymore so text/call me if interested in anything 0423976648
  2. Gday T66 turbo. Rebuilt with 360deg thrust bearing 1.0 rear, 1.7 front comes with lines $1200ono Tial 44mm waste gate with screamer pipe $450 6x Bosch MEC 717 coils $250 Microtech LT12s with x6 igniter and hand controller and loom to suit RB25det $1250 Greddy style forward facing plenum suit RB25detwith 80mm throttle body $400ono 6x SARD 600cc Injectors, have been re coned and flow tested $600 Tommie Type A Drop in cams suit RB25det $450 Adjustable cam gears $80 Direct Twin plate clutch suit any RB series gearbox only used for 2000km $1400 VL Turbo Radiator $80 RB25det head rebuilt to suit RB25/30 Conversion comes with cas, rocker covers etc . $1200ono T3 turbo good cond with intake pipe dump pipe, oil and water lines $300ono Rb25det exhaust "front pipe" $100 9.5" flywheel $30 Stock Rb25det clutch and flywheel good cond $50 Stock Rb25det exhaust manifold with heat shield $50 Stock Rb25det plenum, throttle body etc $50 Rb25det AFM with pod filter $70 RB25det engine loom. was modified to fit vl commodore $100 Rb25det ECU $100ono Everything is in good condition. Selling as I am putting an LS1 in my car this weekend Everything located in Spearwood western australia. can post smaller items I dont come on here much so would prefer text/call. 0423976648 Cheers
  3. Yeah iv already done that and changed the wiring to suit. Now i just need to change the settings in the ecu as the Rb30et only runs a single coil instead of 6 coils. Also, how do I wire up the vct? just use the AUX output off the LT12 to trigger a relay to give power to the solanoid? Im assuming I can just ground one side of the solanoid and then give it 12v + through the other side through a relay? cheers
  4. G'day I have purchased a Microtech LT12S for my RB25DET, however it is set up with an rb30et base tune. I have rung up Microtech and they said all I have to do to run it on the RB25det is chance the cas settings. So the question is, how do I do this? I just have to finish some wiring on the engine loom and the engine should run. I want to have the engine running on the base map and have everything 100% ready before it goes to get tuned so there are no problems once it hits the dyno. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
  5. g'day iv just purchaced a direct twin plate clutch to sure an r33 5speed question is - is it a straight up fit or does anything need modifying or adjusting? iv bolted it all together without it being on the motor and it looks like there is alot less movment in the fins (is that what they are called?) than the previous clutch i had ( extreme brass button) but i dont know if this is normal as iv never instaled a twin plate before :s any help / insight much appreciated cheers
  6. yeah i just didnt want to have to buy a new turbo lol
  7. hmmm fair enough. i got the turbo to go on a 25/30 but iv decided to just go a standard 25 for now
  8. you should be able to find a complete stock rb25det for the price of all the 30et gear you buy. it will make more power safer and rev harder
  9. forgot to mension, its a proboost t66, just bin freashly rebuilt with a 360deg thrust bearing if that helps at all. as for size, i think its slightly bigger than a 35/40
  10. g'day iv got a t66 with a 1.07 front and 1.0 rear housing on a 6boost manifold that im planning on putting on a standard 25 with a greddy plenum and 600cc injectors. how much power should i expect out of the setup? how much boost should it safely handle and will it be very lagy? cheers
  11. g'day i have an rb25det head that has bin modified to go onto an rb30 block. i have decided to go back to an rb25 bottom end as the 30 one is stuffed and i scored a free rb25det bottom end. the vct oil gallery on the head has bin welded up and i have drilled out the copper bung as per the rb30det conversion thread. what do i have to do to put the head back on a 25 bottom end? i dont realy want to drill the oil gallery on the head back out... cheers
  12. G'day Iv bin looking at going a spool imports 25/30 kit for when my na spec bottom end goes. Who has used the kits? Likes/dislikes? How much power should they handle with a bit of abuse? Cheers
  13. the vct isnt connected atm anyway
  14. what do you mean mate? im getting rid of the vct anyway now because im putting it back together with adjustable timing gears anyway also for thoes interested here is what the setup ended up looking like 80% complete, iv got another catch can orded to replace the pos greddy one and iv got an intake made up for it but it was done after this pic was taken also note that the motor is in a new body aswell. there is a thread on antilag about it under the title "vlt rape wagon"
  15. Ok iv started pulling the head off again, got stuck on the front drivers side 10mm head bolt so I give up. Planning on putting it back together with a commetic head gasket and adjustable timing gears this time
  16. Bin a while since iv posted but here it goes. Got the motor going no worries but it's got mad lifter noise. Only had the car run for about 2 min and it still won't go away. Iv bloked off the rear feed and inserted a 1.5mm in the front. Keep running it in hope that it comes good or pull the head off and pull out the front and or rear restrictors?
  17. because i like pictures: had 2 bosses welded under the plenum to bolt the coil packs to. modified the plenum so i can use an XF throttle body. modified VCT return line SARD
  18. turns out the cams were out by 2 teeth each, fixed that and re torqued the head up to 108nm (80fp), havnt had a chance to check it again yet but hopefully should be all good now
  19. yeah i used heaps of the thread lube that came with the studs when i put it together
  20. yeah i just checked it again, the ARP instructions say 80nm not 88 like the vl manual
  21. hmmm ok :S take the nuts off and add washes and re test? or is this going to f**k the head gasket? cheers
  22. i didnt get a small set of washers with the kit, only the big ones :s
  23. when i put the head studs in i wound them all the way in then backed them off a turn but then when i put the nuts on they went all the way to the bottom and bound up so i wound all the studs all the way in.
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