Oppression

The issue is not being able to access the hose tail to replace the hose without removing the intake manifold. Nothing wrong with the heater core etc

Help with blown heater hose S2 G'day, I have a blown heater hose on my S2 rs4s. It's holed where the hose meets the hose tail at the back of the block on the intake side, I think it is the return from the heater core? Looking at it I assume I have to pull the intake manifold to replace it. Is there any way I can bodge it up to keep it on the road till the Xmas holidays, assuming just blocking the line to the heater core would be pointless as the return will leak regardless in a pressurised system? Also is there a decent guide on intake manifold remove/replace I can only seem to find guides on aftermarket plenum installs, can't take enough time off atm to mess around with it. Thanks

I've been messing with my consult on and off for ages now but have never got it to work. I have a S2 RS-4 S and am trying to use one of those cheap Chinese consult adapters. I am pretty sure my ECU is stock, my consult port has a yellow Tx and a brown/yellow Rx wire, no clock wire and a black ground. I havent seen those particular colours on any of the pinout diagrams but I assume doesn't matter, and I have read Pete's posts before that no clock on the RS-4 S is normal same as the R34 Gtt. I have so far tried ECUtalk windows XP and 7 laptops, a Windows CE mobile device. As well as writing my own python program in Linux that works similar to Hyper Terminal. I have used 2 different Serial - USB converters one of which is FTDI based. No luck on anything so far. When I use the terminal program it works fine transmitting to itself and other systems so the Serial comms side is fine, when I turn the key on the Stagea to ON I receive a 0x0 hex character, but no initiation string I have used so far has yielded any results. While sending random hex chars to the consult port (while the Stagea isn't running) sometimes returns different hex characters so I am assuming the consult adapter I am using is working. I was hoping Pete or one of the other more experienced members could give me an idea on what the problem could be, I'm running out of ideas.

You lads are the best, that was my problem all along, I only had the fronts done but the fitter must have mixed them up I spose 'coz I had asked for all 4 to be balanced, swapped 'em round and she drives perfect thanks very much. Had a minor drama removing the rear passenger wheel as one of the nuts was cross threaded on the stud and I assume done up with an air gun as it sheared off while removing it (I didn't have a choice), all good old mate from Tyreright Yatala and I were up for a chat anyway after his poor after sales service. Thanks again

I obviously suffer from some sort of mental retardation, It couldn't possibly be CV's due to the fact they are one of the components that will turn regardless weather or not they are being driven by the engine. Maybe transfer box, drive shaft maybe or one of those lil uni's, guess the drive shaft'll have to come off. Save that I'll have to have someone that knows what they are doing to have a look =`(

Anti-sway bar was pushed hard over to one side (about an inch or so off center) and if I pull the 4wd fuse the problem completely goes away... CV's Maybe? Just strange the problem wasn't there before I got new rubber and an alignment but appeared 10mins after leaving the tyre shop. And yea I know its prob not a good idea to drive round with the fuse pulled but not removing the front drive shaft, was only for diagnosis

Nuts are fine and suspension rebounding as normal? See what happens...

Yea brand new Federal SS-595's, balanced + aligned, if I get a break today I'll check the shocks as you described and make sure the nuts are tight TY

G'day SAU, I had new rubber and a 4wheel alignment on my S2 Stagea over the weekend. Shortly after leaving the tyre shop I could feel a kind of mild bounce in the front end while driving in a straight line, RPM is stable and I have no miss etc so I'm pretty sure it has to be related to the front wheels? It is only bad at mild engine load (normal driving), feels almost like one of the front tyres is semi flat but on inspection they seem the same pressure, I'll stop in at the servo on the way home to make sure. I'll take it back to the tyre shop when I finish work today but thought you lads might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks

If your still looking one of the blokes I work with is selling an Apexi power FC to suit rb20 (R32), it was in his 180sx still in great condition comes with hand controller. He wants $1300 for it pm me if you are interested and I'll give you his number etc.

Thankyou very much, worked a treat, remind me I owe you a beer =D

I have the white box on the passenger side, earthing out the purple/grey wires locks and unlocks all the doors except the drivers side, I can hear a relay click from the control unit on the drivers side but no effect on the lock itself=( Is this common, does anyone know what my issue is?? Thanks

Sorry I can't PM yet not enough posts =( If you still want 'em PM me an address and I'll put 'em in the mail

All the bulbs for my Climate Control are burned out. I was going to put blue LED's in my Climate Control and Dash today (nothing wrong with dash) but ran into a few issues. First the LED's I bought for the Climate Control were supposed to come with resistors, I was going to find the power wire for the bulbs and hardwire resistors before the plug, but when the LED's arrived there were no resistors dodgy EBAY was an Aussie company as-well =(. Tried wiring one up without a resistor but it burned out instantly. The LED's I got for the Dash cluster have the resistors built in - sweet, but my dash apparently has that filter stuff that blocks out blue =( so I had to put the standard bulbs back in as almost no light penetrated the filter. I gently removed the LED's for the Dash from their holders and fed the legs through the holders for the Climate Control bulbs, I had to squish them a bit to get everything in and then squish the led's closer together (they are the multi direction type with 3LED's) to fit them through the mount holes. Works great I was really surprised. I noticed some people were missing the blue condoms from the standard bulbs that make the light white, I have a full set of these left over now so if anyone wants them just let me know ill bang em in the mail. It'd be a shame to throw em out if someone could use em.