nicr4wks

The looms are 👌real good looking work! Do you know which part number timing belt you're running? I couldn't for the life of me get mine fitting without using 2 tensioners.

Pulsar G30-770 in an R33, 10mm spacer. IWG bracket needs to be modified as the one supplied won't clear the strut tower.

Sorry for the slow reply @jmknights93 I don't seem to have received a reply notification for this thread. Can I ask where you're looking? In FAST these small parts didn't even show on the diagrams. PM sent.

My list of OEM part numbers + help finding small clips. Hi All, Looking for a little help identifying where I can find replacement parts / names of these parts to search ebay / part numbers for a couple of small clips around the engine bay of an R33 GTST. I've been able to pull most things I need out of FAST but these ones are eluding me! Cable ties that attach the main engine loom to the threaded studs on the firewall Cable ties that attach the loom to holes in the body Rubber/plastic grommets that cover these holes. Cheers! If anyone else goes down this venture, this list may help. Parts are for an 02/97 R33 GTST looked up in FAST, prices are from Amayama. car parts 2017.xlsx

Registering interest. I would think black would be fine, a trip to the powder coaters can sort out any customization.

Just a bit of closure for if anyone searches this in the future. An R33 sump will not fit the NEO block, even though the block was drilled to accept the 2wd 33 sump there is no way it will fit without some serious modification to the pickup, or to the sump (cutting and welding type modification). Fitting a 33 pickup does not solve the problem either. I ended up getting a neo 2wd sump and bolting that on instead. To make it fit in an R33 the power steering lines need to be un bolted from the front cross member and held out of the way as the engine is lowered in, if you don't do this the fins on the neo sump will crush the lines. Once the engine is on the mounts you can clearly see how to re-route the powersteer lines around the fins.

Loosened up the belt last night, noise gone! Dobz method seems pretty solid, I also found the belt "feels" the tightest between the two gears, I guess this is due to it being the shortest run between two points.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397602-how-to-replace-a-timing-belt-202526-pics/ As described in this guide, I can get roughly 1/4 turn out of the belt. It doesn't feel overly tight.

Should point out the idler and tensioner were replaced at the same time, along with the water pump. Prior to all this there was no noise from the old belt! Yes the CAS has spacers, it's also only temporarily removed for diagnosis of the noise.

Hi Guys, I've replaced a couple of timing belts before, but this is the first Gates one I've done. There's a noise coming from the cam gear area which I think is the noise of the belt teeth against the gears. I've heard the Gate's belts can be noisy but this seems pretty excessive and I'm thinking I might need to loosen it up a bit. Can anyone confirm? Cheers.

TBH I hadn't looked at the pickup yet to realise it's different! Went to work on it tonight and saw the problem.. Baffles have been cut out of the 33 sump and the original plates put back on the girdle, this will hopefully fix both problems. Waiting for the sump to dry 100% after cleaning out the shavings from cutting and will test fit everything again.

Heya guys, I'm converting a 25det neo from a Stagea to RWD so it can be used in a 33, using the sump from a S2 25det. The NEO has 2 baffle plates attached to the main girdle, the rear plate needs to be removed to fit the 33 sump as this has baffles attached in the sump where as the awd sump was just a flat surface. I imagine this will be OK as the 33 sump looks to have a very similar baffle layout to that of the removed plate, or is it a better idea to remove the sump baffles so the neo baffle plate can still be used? When removing the baffle plate the bolt holes on the main girdle are left empty, should the bolts go back in to maintain rigidity? Otherwise I'd probably leave them out to prevent the chances of one coming lose down the track. Cheers!

It has not had a professional dyno tune, however I have a wideband and knock detection, I've gone through the maps and tried changing fueling and timing with absolutely no change to the misfire.

I've tried two sets of injectors, one set pulled from a working engine just a week prior. As for the tune, I've tried stock DE & DET maps, as well as custom fuel & timing maps, it misfires the same on all of them.

I'm currently running the DET reg, after some quick research on fuel pressures it looks like that should be fine even on the higher comp engine. Unless the reg has failed I guess I'm probably looking back at spark. I've got another coilpack loom I'll swap out tonight, check for 12v at each coil and check resistance to ground also. Thanks for the tips.

Gday guys, So here's my setup. 1997 S2 R33 gtst, a few weeks a go the engine developed knock which turned out to be a spun bearing on 5th, the engine is being rebuilt but is going to take a few months. On the weekend a rb25de was offered to me for a carton, so I thought what the hell, let's do a bit of an experiment. I stripped the engine back to just the block and head and swapped on my 25det intake, all sensors, exhaust manifold, wiring, turbo etc. It's now basically a high compression engine with all the DET stuff strapped to it, if it blows up then so be it, I'll have some interesting results to share. The problem, as soon as it hits ANY positive manifold pressure the car starts misfiring, all the way from 1psi through to 10psi. Under load or sitting in neutral it does not matter. The car behaves fine off boost and is drivable. Things I've tried: New spark plugs 0.8mm gapped. Swapping each coilpack one by one with a known good coil (could be more than 1 faulty, I don't have a full set for testing) Stock DET injectors as well as larger 550cc injectors. Different stock fuel rail (swapped same time as injectors) Checked base timing with light, set to 15deg. Tried with various AFR from 10:1 to 14:1 (via fuel map adjust) Tried with various timings (via timing map adjust) Checked battery voltage reported by ECU, 13.8v Things left on my list: Get a fuel pressure gauge and check. Fuel lines were hooked up backward when the engine first went in, perhaps damaged something. Investigate DET vs DE fuel pressure regs, maybe it needs to be higher for the higher compression engine. Try and borrow a full set of known working coilpacks. Anything else I should be checking? Running out of ideas here! Full mod list: RB25DE+T Kinugawa TD06 Tial external gate 10psi spring JECS 550cc injectors Bosch 044 mounted in tank United E85 Innovate wideband RB20 nistune with vct & flex fuel FMIC Blitz i-color EBC Cheers.

Looked a bit further in to it last night, pulled the covers off the head but didn't find any unusual wear or marks. Started pulling the sump off while I wait for an engine hoist to get dropped off on the weekend hoping to get a look, but will need to lift the engine slightly to get the sump off anyway. The whole engine looks like it was filled with black water instead of oil, it was only changed 5 weeks a go and the car has done just over 1000km. Not sure what would cause it to break down so quick. It's running E85 but even oil I leave in for ~6000km doesn't come out looking anywhere near that bad. I did buy the bottle from a servo late one night, only thing I can think of is maybe it had been sitting around for a real long time, will have to look for a date on it.

Haven't tried this, and currently there's no oil in it to give it a go.

Heya guys, Hoping someone might have some experience with this paticular engine noise to help me pinpoint where it's coming from. I'm getting a rattle somwhere between 3-4500rpm (tacho is busted) which is worse under load than it is in neutral. Standing in front of the car it sounds like it's coming from the lower half, but a couple of people have told me it sounds more like a head noise. I've just dropped the oil and found a small pile of shavings on the magnetic sump plug and will pull the covers off the top soon for a look. If anyone is familiar with this paticular noise though that would be awesome.

2012 update (latest) here: https://www.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0015/15261/Passenger-Car-Track-list-May-2012.pdf

Mine has holes through the speaker grill, and the bracket it screws in to sits under the speaker, so someones taken them out to install speakers instead. I've also got a bit of a crack on the front bar and front mud guards removed from inside the wheel well, likely to be problems? Trying to push it through before Christmas but if I need a front bar/guards/repeat visit it's unlikely! Just remembered the reo has a couple of nicks taken out for FMIC also, but I've heard varying reports on people getting picked up for that. Cheers for the tips.

Heya guys, Does anyone know the rules for baby seat anchors? My car has 3 welded in but only 1 bolt screwed in the middle seat, the two side ones had been unscrewed when I got the car and were not supplied with it. The side ones can not be seen unless the parcel shelf is removed due to speakers covering them, will I need bolts screwed in all 3 to pass regency?

That is indeed me This is possible, however I'd be paying about 60% of the cost to do so. Considering I wasn't the one who admitted to playing around on their phone, why should I pay anything?

Hey Guys, Wasn't sure what section to post this, so FI seemed most relevant! I was rear-ended last week by a bloke who admitted playing around on his mobile, most of the damage went to the rear left of my 33, the exhaust took a pretty bad hit causing it to be bent like a banana. It was a HKS Hi-power turbo back which the repairer has quoted at $2700 to replace. Now, somehow I managed to forget this on my policy (seriously), i've added every little piece of stupid shit down to the fuel pump and ecu but somehow I've forgotten the exhaust! Idiot. So of course my insurer has come back telling me to bugger off with the exhaust claim, however since I'm not at fault doesn't the claim go against the 3rd party? A few years a go I only had 3rd party on my own vehicle, I was in a not-at fault accident and the at-fault insurer replaced all parts with the same or comparable parts. If I was at fault in this instance, no worries, I'm at fault for the crash and forgetting to list the exhaust. But if I had no insurance at all, and I claimed directly against the 3rd party, like my previous experience they'd probably cover like-for-like parts, it feels like I'm paying more for full comp insurance but losing out. Do I have a leg to stand on here? Cheers!

If you get some working code post it up =D I was looking at something similair a while a go to create a vct controller, but a much easier solution came along in my case so I never bothered.