raz0r$harP.UK

You idiot the reason everyone is hassling you is not because you're asking silly questions or to look cool it's because you're going around racing on public roads, and asking if you should be 'proud.' There's a place to race and it's the dragstrip / circuit. No one want to see in the news accidents / deaths from someone racing / driving dangerously. You can see that in most of your other threads people have been generally helpful. But when you talk about something that's potentially dangerous not only to yourself but anyone, everyone else on the roads, expect a less than pleasant response.

Yeah it pulls up and off. It clips in towards the front of the door (ie under the power window controls etc) and it's usually easier if you can try to grip it from there and pull up. Bit tricky but you'll get it eventually. Once it's out you can see the clips and it'll make it easier when you're taking it out next time.

Take a look at your fuel lines. Nissan uses top-notch EFI hose. The chances of E5 fuels causing problems are probably minimal at best. I'm sure Shell wouldn't have released a product like this on the market if there were going to be mass complications from its use. /edit: I recently had my fuel lines tested by a hose expert for durability with Extreme and no problems arose. He told me go for it

On the drivers side: - unclip the door handle surround (use a knife if you need to to help prise it off) - remove cap in the cup, and the screw underneath - the bit with the window controls should just unclip with a bit of force - three screws at the bottom of the door - take off the trim piece Sounds to me like it's the third step outlined above you're having trouble with? Only that one screw holding mine in, the rest are just plastic clips.

I saw these on a car a few weeks ago. Looks okay, but not my thing. Didn't see it lit up, though.

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Yep, it's a July 1993 model, GTST Type M, manual.

Hi, Took apart a dash cluster to replace some blown globes and along the way I lost some of the plastic holders which keep the bulb secured in place. Anyone know where I can get them from??

hey i am after pretty much all the boot trim. ie 2 sides, and side closest to the back of the car and boot carpet and piece under carpet. which parts of it do you have also after rear trim... like parts where arms go in the rear and the upper b pillar trim so if you decide to spilt the rear up let me know... cheers

:lol: TG0 = light grey metallic. If you see the first post I updated it yesterday with that information.

Hmm looks interesting.. how do you find it when the car is moving around? Steady?

Edited your post title

Well please do post when you've figured it out. There's a guide for changing rear speakers in a 32 coupe but if the sedan is different..

From the diagram, it looks like the main purpose is to shield the air coming from the snorkel from hot air in the engine bay. I remember that someone once said the ideal conditions for a pod filter is to take in air from all directions which you impede by enclosing a pod. This design seems to follow those principles... ..or maybe I'm just talkin nonsense!

On a related note, any got any ideas on a CAI setup if you're using stock intercooler piping (33 GTST)? All I can basically think of is a heat shield for the pod.

Update. Car had to be towed as I couldn't get the !@#!@$ lock ring off Anyway, pump was pulled and it tested fine, no problems. What appears to have happened is that the EFI hose has weakened significantly where it attaches to the fuel pump outlet (and pressure is the greatest). To the point where it is expanding to approximately the size as my radiator hose As the restriction in the fuel hose is removed, the pump is unable to supply constant / sufficient pressure. I've only had the pump in for four months, and the lines were inspected when it was installed so it looks like it has degraded gradually over time due to the larger capacity being output by the pump. Has anyone experienced anything like this before??

Sound deaden your boot panels / number plates to stop vibrations and panel flex. Also should do your doors too. Look up products like Dynamat, G-Spot Serenity, etc. //Edit: Read this link from FHRXStudios about deadening.

Please search it's been covered plenty of times before. There are pros and cons to both methods.

They were on different Skylines eg LV2 was specific to the 33 GTR, LV4 and LX0 were for different runs on the 34 series.

Do you have the rear boot trim?

OzCelica forums? Seriously though there should be a grommet on the firewall you can feed a cable through.

A lot of RAWS are also AUVIS' and can provide a blue slip for cars once compliance work is completed.

1989 GTSTs didn't have them, but series 2 (91+) had them.

Sounds like 'alternator whine.' Happens usually when you're grounding points are inadequate, or your power and speaker cables are running too close to each other.

Thanks guys. NRMA just came, had a good look at the car: CAS fine, still has injector pulse and spark. Fuel filter was fine. Fuel pump fuse okay. No fuel is coming through the lines so the fuel pump has to come out. I'll get the 040 tested and see if it's faulty..