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By that logic I'm racing right now.

Sold.

Hey guys, I have to back out of this. I sold my car today. And I am very sad about it..... So if anyone wants my spot, let me know.

Price drop to $13,500. Putting the car up on carsales and whatnot now, but I would love to see this car go to someone from the forum.

Negotiable, throw me an offer.

Moving back to Canada in June. Not looking for a swap. Have a 32 gtr waiting for me there Exedy HD single with 3000 km

Rob: oh-45-oh-83 double two 42 r_bellemare at hotmail dot com

Hey guys, Looking for $16,000 obo. Regretful sale. I had intended to ship the car with me back to Canada, but I would have to wait until October, which is not possible. Some people around the forum know me, and know I'm a mature guy who takes good care of his car and doesn't drive like a hoon. I have owned this car for 2 years, from 97k to 120k. The suspension is solid and feels great, and the car has been modded in order to come on boost early. Makes ~220 rwkw. Dyno'd at 197 by Tunehouse before I put the coils and the cat. I have made sure she is nice and quiet, stealthy, and she hasn't given me any notable problems. All engine work done at Tunehouse, all suspension done at Heasmans. Features: - Full 100k service done at 97k after buying the car (Gates timing belt, tensioner, water pump, fluids, etc.) - turbo back exhaust with 3" bell mouth dump/front pipe, 3" 100 CPSI Venom metal race cat, 3.5 to 4" cat-back - Turbosmart manual boost controller @ 10psi - Splitfire coilpacks - HKS pod filter with Hi-octane racing prototype shielding (my car was used for their ebay ad) - HKS Hipermax III coilovers, height and damper adjustable - Turbo has 47k, and plenty of life left - Fully wired up sound system, top of the line Sony equipment 4-way 3.5" fronts, 12" competition sub, with pioneer 4-ways 3.5" in the back. - New SRI tie rods, and alignment done yesterday. - Full impul "inspired" bodykit - +25mm vented front guards - 350z anniversary wheels powder coated to match - New 52mm radiator Super bonus: - 4x 255x35x18 Federal 595 RS-Rs with 70%+ tread Bad: - Rear bar and front bar have paint chips from a less than stellar spray job

Lol yeah that's what I sent him a PM about that prompted his update. If you find one, let me know.

Also randomly saw it pictured in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/405483-r34-parts-hks-intercooler-jap-front-pipe-r32-gtr-lip-wind-deflectors-roof-spoiler-plus-more/?hl=%2Bturn+%2Bflow+%2Bintercooler

Me and MrStabby are in on this. PM sent.

Hey all, Saw a member's R34 cluster and it had a really nice carbon fibre looking bezel / fascia with chrome circles that surround the dash cluster's gauges. Looks mint and really updates the console. Was searching online and I found a person was selling one for an AT back in 2009, other than that I can't even find a picture of it anywhere. If you know where I can find something like this let me know.

Coilpacks are still sitting around looking for a good home.

Which MAF are you using? I would assume that a single r33 GTR MAF would restrict airflow into the turbo too much, and you'd be having an airflow constraint resulting in much less power. Most people get a custom Y pipe that joins two MAFs into the turbo.

Make sure your wastegate can travel freely and is not getting caught up on the split dump pipe.

Use plenty of lube! Those bolts and nuts are going to be rusted. Might want to buy a whole new set of high tensile fasteners. If you're removing the dump pipe, you might as well change the turbo outlet gasket, if you haven't done it in a while. Are you using the stock front pipe? This piece has a little lip where it meets the dump pipe, meaning the internal diameter tube sticks out from the flange, and it might not fit properly into your new dump pipe.

BTW Installed on a r34 gtt. Also, I'd like a rundown on what exactly a damper setting is. I haven't found anything in the forums talking about it. From my basic knowledge (read: nothing) I understand that it's a setting that would act against the movement of a shock compressing and decompressing. The shocks allow the wheel to travel upwards against a bump in the road to ensure that your car doesn't bottom out, and the spring pops the shock back in place to make sure you are still pushing the wheel down for traction. The damper in this equation will counter these two motions to effectively make the travel along the shock's length smoother and limit to total travel distance. A soft damping setting will allow the shock and spring to move freely, this could theoretically allow the shock to hit the top or the bottom of it's total length, which could cause damage and loss of stability. When the setting is too firm, the shock and spring won't be able to react quickly enough to the change in road surface and may cause bad handling because of loss of traction, etc. So if this is all correct, there should be a theoretical "perfect setting" for damper where it would be at it's softest setting that would prevent the shock from maxing out the travel length either during compression or rebound. The reason height adjustable coilovers have damper setting is to find that sweet spot in the case that you've changed the ride height. The front and rear damper setting should be slightly different, where the front should be a little firmer, because there will be more load on the front suspension during cornering at the track. Is this a fair statement?

Hey guys, I've got HKS coilovers on each corner of my car, but I don't know what model they are. The strut tops are using what I believe is a rose joint (pillowball uppermount?), because it knocks quite loudly as I drive down bumpy roads. The shocks themselves don't have much identification on them. There is a holographic HKS sticker with the word DAMPER on it. On the opposite side of the shock there's another plaque all in japanese characters with '3031' stamped into it. I know these units are height and damper adjustable. My questions are: Does any know what the adjuster is that is shown in the picture? Is this a rebound setting? It travels very smoothly, not like the clicking of the damper setting in the front. It's only on the rears IIRC, but I thought the damper setting was at the strut top. Does anyone know which coilover model I have? I'd like to change the strut top of the coilover to a bushing style to reduce the road noise. Cheers

Lol I don't remember posting my fenders Turbo is sold. Coilpacks are the only thing left. As stated before, they work great at stock boost (7psi), I got intermittent missing at high RPM when I went to 11psi.

Bump. Price drop to $50 for the turbo. Price drop to $30 for the coil packs. Heat shield is gone. OBO prices.

Dump pipe sold.

Just want to clear some space. Thought I would see if anyone wanted this stuff before they go into the bin. I am in Sydney. All prices exclude postage. - $100 blown R34 gtt stock turbo with OP6 rear housing. This is ready for a reco, you know the drill. The shaft is bent and minor chipping can be seen on the exhaust and nylon compressor blades. - $60 JJR Split Dump pipe. Link to new item. This was bought to fix an exhaust leak. Soon after installing I found that the front pipe was also rusted through, so I bought the 3" bellmouth pipe from JJR. I had this installed on the car for 200km. It's like-new and comes with all the hardware, unused. Features a removable airflow splitter. - $5 Dump pipe heat shield. Will throw into box with Split pipe if you want. - $50 used oem coil packs for r34 rb25det. Working at stock boost. They have done 100k.

I just looked at some old pictures from my engine bay before the boost controller, and it looks like one of the hoses off the F-looking T valve is supposed to go to the solenoid...

It's hard to get the full story of what's happening here. I did notice in picture #3 & 4 that we don't really see what's happening with the recirc valve. The recirc is the matte aluminium can that has the blue hose on it. It should have a vacuum hose on it as part of the boost control system. Also, take off the useless snorkel you have there (large black plastic bit in pic 4), and remove the NEO cover plate and post another picture of the recirc valve. What we need to know is where the two hoses from the actuator (brass tin can) are going, so include photos of those two hoses. FYI I have the stock boost gauge, and a GFB manual boost controller. With the boost set to 10psi, the boost gauge is 9/10 up to the +1 mark. If you want to limp your car into the CBD area, me and a mate can take a look at it. PM.

Late jumping into this one. I'll be there, I owe Bob some money I'm taking Pat's spot, cause he's gonna get shot while watching Dark Knight tonight.