DanielH

I swapped an r32 rb26 into my na r34 and just used the neo engine wiring loom with minor changes like tps and cas plugs. Much easier to just use the rb25 loom with a tuneable ecu.

Rb25det PPG dog box For sale is my PPG straight cut dog box. It has been fitted with billet selectors and it is the large spline option (doesn't work with stock clutch spline).) It has seen around 500-800km's of street driving in my r34 with 400kw and has performed flawlessly and hasn't been mistreated. Only reason for sale is im considering changing to something quieter as my car sees mostly street use. if you're after a bulletproof rwd box save yourself some cash and get yourself a near new box already assembled far cheaper than a gearset! it comes as a bare box with no external parts like clutch fork shifter etc, and it is fitted into r33 housings. asking price $7200 plus delivery pm or text 0four0eight 117 171 text preferred

Yeah mines higher than that by a little, approx 30psi at idle, 65-70psi on the relief valve by about 3000rpm, holds that fairly consistently to redline.

Yes i got the right springs for 9mm lift, that I'm sure of, and that's some good info regarding oils there, I haven't touched this for a while now, gave it a good run around the track without any dramas and it's been parked up since what is this 10psi/1000rpm guide you speak of?

You should be fine with mineral now, it will continue to bed in further if needed with mineral oil.

I've done the experimental swapsy, while it is "spiking" it's not actually going up to the correct pressure, which without doing further testing leads me to believe I have a supply flow issue. The fuel connectors "were" the issue, now they're drilled out its fine, I can drop it to 40psi, but I'm just running it higher cause at around 70psi on full boost I'm getting good duty cycles on my injectors. If I can sort the issue I'd like to run around 45/50 base pressure with a proper 1:1 increase with boost pressure and it will be perfect!

And what GTRPSI said about decel is correct, engine braking/decel is just as beneficial as load is, bringing the engine down from 5-6000rpm without braking will achieve this.

150 is pretty good already if it hasnt been run/or run much. I'd go easy with the Penrite running in oil as I find its pretty thin when its hot, it's great stuff but I wouldn't give the motor too hard a time with it in there, that's just my preference though. My preference would be running in oil for initial start up, and then maybe 500-1000 K's or so of fairly sensible driving after the first service, then I would switch to a high performance mineral and take it to get tuned and then go to whatever oil you plan to run it on.

I found 2 restrictions (holdens quick release fuel line fittings) which had about a 4mm hole in the end, I drilled those out to 6mm on both fittings which helped with the high pressure, but the reg is still not creeping high enough on boost. I have got my fuel map to the point where it's usable and it will do for now, powercruise is on Saturday and I have too much other stuff to do before then. After that I may be able to do some more testing and figure it out. Interestingly the fuel pressure spikes to 75psi before settling to 70 the way I have it at the moment, base is 60. But this is pointing towards a possible flow issue, I would think? As boost comes on the reg is applying more restriction to the fuel rail but the injectors suddenly start to swallow a whole lot more fuel.

Provided that your oil is up to it, there's no harm in running an engine like this in HARD, if its gonna be abused it may aswell do it from day 1, some people may disagree with that though, but the only items to "run in" are rings and cams/lifters, and rings bed in by high load/pressure forcing the rings out, cams are straight forward, if using old cams no need to worry!

Minimal idling to start with and as much load as you can (without being too silly) is crucial, I've had some engines that are bedded in within 10 mins of running/revving and others take some driving, guess it comes down to bore finish, rings, oil etc. First start is very crucial, once you're satisfied with oil pressure bring the revs up, 2000rpm idle is fine (and necessary with new cams), keep water topped up and gradually give it some revs as it comes up to temp, if you think you have air in the cooling system shut it off before it boils. Once you're on the road drive it normally for a street car, not abusive but use all of the rev range and as much load (boost) as you can depending on tune. And always use mineral oil until its bedded in (good compression/no blowby). That's all I can think of at the moment

The above pictured kit uses a balancer which has a relatively narrow gimlet belt which uses the position of the stock ac/fanbelt and leaves the power steering pulley in the factory position, that kit would be a great thing if you like the noise of a gilmer belt, not necessary for just running the alternator though.

The injection multiplier (K value) is the one main correction for everything, injector/maf size, fuel pressure etc. etc. all effect this value, it is used to get everything in the ballpark and then the fuel map gets you going from there, if I get the reg working perfectly or close to it the fuel map should be easy to get right, with room left on the map. Later commodores use a quick-release fuel line fitting which turns out has quite a restrictive end on the fitting, I drilled that out and I can get 50psi with pump on/engine off which is probably good enough. I'm going to run it on the dyno again and see how the fuel pressure behaves and if its better, redo my fuel map, I'm much happier with how the pump is running now that it's rewired! Thanks for the help so far!

And it won't go any lower ^^

That's what I have done, as I said I have got the full boost portion of the map right on the highest value that can be used in the nistune, I can't scale the map any lower. I can confirm I had a power supply issue and probably a return line restriction because I have rewired the pump with its own direct power supply/relay and its jumped from 40psi base pressure to 60psi