DanielH

I swapped an r32 rb26 into my na r34 and just used the neo engine wiring loom with minor changes like tps and cas plugs. Much easier to just use the rb25 loom with a tuneable ecu.

Rb25det PPG dog box For sale is my PPG straight cut dog box. It has been fitted with billet selectors and it is the large spline option (doesn't work with stock clutch spline).) It has seen around 500-800km's of street driving in my r34 with 400kw and has performed flawlessly and hasn't been mistreated. Only reason for sale is im considering changing to something quieter as my car sees mostly street use. if you're after a bulletproof rwd box save yourself some cash and get yourself a near new box already assembled far cheaper than a gearset! it comes as a bare box with no external parts like clutch fork shifter etc, and it is fitted into r33 housings. asking price $7200 plus delivery pm or text 0four0eight 117 171 text preferred

Yeah mines higher than that by a little, approx 30psi at idle, 65-70psi on the relief valve by about 3000rpm, holds that fairly consistently to redline.

Yes i got the right springs for 9mm lift, that I'm sure of, and that's some good info regarding oils there, I haven't touched this for a while now, gave it a good run around the track without any dramas and it's been parked up since what is this 10psi/1000rpm guide you speak of?

You should be fine with mineral now, it will continue to bed in further if needed with mineral oil.

I've done the experimental swapsy, while it is "spiking" it's not actually going up to the correct pressure, which without doing further testing leads me to believe I have a supply flow issue. The fuel connectors "were" the issue, now they're drilled out its fine, I can drop it to 40psi, but I'm just running it higher cause at around 70psi on full boost I'm getting good duty cycles on my injectors. If I can sort the issue I'd like to run around 45/50 base pressure with a proper 1:1 increase with boost pressure and it will be perfect!

And what GTRPSI said about decel is correct, engine braking/decel is just as beneficial as load is, bringing the engine down from 5-6000rpm without braking will achieve this.

150 is pretty good already if it hasnt been run/or run much. I'd go easy with the Penrite running in oil as I find its pretty thin when its hot, it's great stuff but I wouldn't give the motor too hard a time with it in there, that's just my preference though. My preference would be running in oil for initial start up, and then maybe 500-1000 K's or so of fairly sensible driving after the first service, then I would switch to a high performance mineral and take it to get tuned and then go to whatever oil you plan to run it on.

I found 2 restrictions (holdens quick release fuel line fittings) which had about a 4mm hole in the end, I drilled those out to 6mm on both fittings which helped with the high pressure, but the reg is still not creeping high enough on boost. I have got my fuel map to the point where it's usable and it will do for now, powercruise is on Saturday and I have too much other stuff to do before then. After that I may be able to do some more testing and figure it out. Interestingly the fuel pressure spikes to 75psi before settling to 70 the way I have it at the moment, base is 60. But this is pointing towards a possible flow issue, I would think? As boost comes on the reg is applying more restriction to the fuel rail but the injectors suddenly start to swallow a whole lot more fuel.

Provided that your oil is up to it, there's no harm in running an engine like this in HARD, if its gonna be abused it may aswell do it from day 1, some people may disagree with that though, but the only items to "run in" are rings and cams/lifters, and rings bed in by high load/pressure forcing the rings out, cams are straight forward, if using old cams no need to worry!

Minimal idling to start with and as much load as you can (without being too silly) is crucial, I've had some engines that are bedded in within 10 mins of running/revving and others take some driving, guess it comes down to bore finish, rings, oil etc. First start is very crucial, once you're satisfied with oil pressure bring the revs up, 2000rpm idle is fine (and necessary with new cams), keep water topped up and gradually give it some revs as it comes up to temp, if you think you have air in the cooling system shut it off before it boils. Once you're on the road drive it normally for a street car, not abusive but use all of the rev range and as much load (boost) as you can depending on tune. And always use mineral oil until its bedded in (good compression/no blowby). That's all I can think of at the moment

The above pictured kit uses a balancer which has a relatively narrow gimlet belt which uses the position of the stock ac/fanbelt and leaves the power steering pulley in the factory position, that kit would be a great thing if you like the noise of a gilmer belt, not necessary for just running the alternator though.

The injection multiplier (K value) is the one main correction for everything, injector/maf size, fuel pressure etc. etc. all effect this value, it is used to get everything in the ballpark and then the fuel map gets you going from there, if I get the reg working perfectly or close to it the fuel map should be easy to get right, with room left on the map. Later commodores use a quick-release fuel line fitting which turns out has quite a restrictive end on the fitting, I drilled that out and I can get 50psi with pump on/engine off which is probably good enough. I'm going to run it on the dyno again and see how the fuel pressure behaves and if its better, redo my fuel map, I'm much happier with how the pump is running now that it's rewired! Thanks for the help so far!

And it won't go any lower ^^

That's what I have done, as I said I have got the full boost portion of the map right on the highest value that can be used in the nistune, I can't scale the map any lower. I can confirm I had a power supply issue and probably a return line restriction because I have rewired the pump with its own direct power supply/relay and its jumped from 40psi base pressure to 60psi

No what I want is for the pressure to drop at idle/vacuum and increase 1:1 with my boost pressure, I'm having a hard time getting my fuel map right, it's not lean enough at low load with the map zero'd (as low as it will go) and its only just maxing out the injectors/getting good afr's on boost with the map on the highest figure.

Connected to one of the vac ports on the greddy plenum with a dedicated hose. well if I set the pressure to 40psi with pump on, engine off, it jumps to 43 psi with engine running with/without vac line connected, kind of backs up the restricted return line theory as the pump will run harder with the alt charging, gonna be even worse when I change my alternator for one that charges properly if that's the case!

+1 on the 3076, very very good turbo for a 2.5L, 330kw on pump fuel with correct supporting mods very comfortably! Possibly more.

I never thought about using an adaptor to mount a stock reg, bit hard otherwise with running the hks rail and top feed injectors, I might have to hard wire the pump with some better wiring and see if that helps

Hey guys having troubles with my fuel system. I have an rb25det in a VS commodore with 300rwkw, all built and tuned myself. I have always been running a cheapo eBay fuel reg, and never had a reason to worry about it with years of running a stock rb20, now that it's tuned I have noticed a problem with having to have a very steep fuel map, and only just being able to get enough resolution on the map to have somewhat reasonable cruise AFR's and enough fuel on full boost. I did some troubleshooting with a good fuel pressure gauge, and have found that my fuel reg does not drop fuel pressure at idle by more than 1psi, observed by removing the vac line while its running. The other interesting thing is that going onto full boost (21psi) the fuel pressure only increases by 10psi. Naturally the first conclusion I came to was a shitty cheap fuel reg is my issue, so I changed on a sard reg (not sure if genuine or not, I've had it kicking about for about 5 years) and retested and it behaves EXACTLY the same! I expect never to get a good drop in pressure at idle because im running big cams with a big overlap, as a result I don't pull much vacuum at idle (6 in-hg roughly), but I'd of thought I would see more going on than 10-11psi difference between idle and 21psi of boost. Here is the basic mod list: Stock rebuild with forged pistons, stock compression, cams etc etc Greddy copy intake High mount turbo setup, gt3076 Nistune ecu HKS fuel rail GTR injectors walbro 450lph pump intank, running factory wiring, triggered by ignition. Stock 8mm hard lines from tank. The reg has a direct free flowing hose 30cm long straight off one of the bottom ports on the greddy intake, tested and proven. Have I got 2 shitty regs that both behave exactly the same, is this somehow normal or could I have an underlying issue elsewhere? Thanks in advance!

Just to clarify something, I made a mistake when I posted the oil I chose, it is Penrite 20w60 performance mineral, and I was recommended 25w60, not sure why I put 70 down, brain fart I guess Apologies to all effected.

Thanks for your input mate, you are right about me saying it will see hard street use, it did and eventually will, I accidentally let the registration expire and it is not mod plated (VS commodore ute) so for now it's just shed life and powercruise, after that It will get a service and eventually rego, I will consider dropping the oil weight at that stage and seeing how it performs. And you are right about the lifters, perhaps if the issue continues or returns after I go to a thinner oil I might have to consider pulling my cams and giving them a clean.

But what's to say that I may spend hundreds (which I don't even remotely have) on 24 new lifters and I won't still have the same issue? I'm pushing the factory hydro lifters beyond the intended stress Nissan ever had in mind for them, I have an event in 1 week that I'm entered in, I could still be scratching my head sorting this out. Not 1 single person running cams as big as mine with similar valve springs chimed in with a definitive answer or advice for me to follow, I was only given opinions by many with varying setups from mine, I tried something that made sense to me and succeeded, and was able to do it affordably and on time. As for the engine having to suffer on cold starts, it's not registered let alone a daily so no problems being driven straight from cold, and you's still seem to think I've chosen some honey-like hpr60 or something.

If you weren't all trying to bash everything I've done through this entire discussion maybe you would all remember I had a problem with my lifters emptying themselves at high temperatures and load with 15/40 oil, having since gone to a thicker oil and getting it up to a reasonably high temp I no longer have any issues, my lifters are staying dead quiet, I have good oil pressure on cold start and good oil pressure when the oil is at 105 degrees C, why on earth would I go back to a thinner oil just cause it works for everyone else? It has been established by many that I have larger cams than what I realistically need, which I'm not bothered about what soever, I also have heavy valve springs and old lifters with lots of K's on them, so what works for every other bloke might not be quite enough for my setup. Go and have a bit of a look around at people who race old Holden 6's and the oil they use, you would soon realise HPR30 isn't a thick oil in the scheme of things. I came on here looking for anyone with real world experience with this issues, instead I got 10% good advise and 90% criticism over my setup and people bashing my ideas which solved my issue, I no longer care what anyone thinks I just thought I would post up my results for those who might ever have the same problem.

I'd like to know how you think it is "such heavy oil" ? I'd prefer to have the thickest oil I can get away with in there so that when I do get everything hot it doesn't thin out and turn to water. I have 4.5 bar at cold idle, and around 5.5 bar at any rpm above ~3000, obviously that's where my oil pump relief valve is fully open as it will never go much higher than that. As for the mineral oil, do some research, synthetic oil has its downsides too, I'm happy trying different things and using what works for me, and so far this is working well for me.