BLK34-GTT

So far the highest offer I have received is 9k. Can anyone beat that? I've given her a long overdue wash and touched up the front bar.

I'm selling my 1998 R34 GT-T which has done 105,000km and has had regular oil changes in the 5 years I have owned it. I'm the second owner in AU since import. ** The car has front end damage ** - About 2 years ago I had a front end crash which pushed the radiator into the engine fan and totalled the headlights, reo bar, radiator, bonnet and front bar. Rather than fixing this properly, I was lazy and went out a bought a new front bar, reo, xenon headlights, radiator, and carbon fibre bonnet. I pushed out the bar that the radiator sits on with a jack, slotted in the new radiator, bolted a new reo on, then zip tied the headlights and front bar on, and replaced the bonnet and intercooler with a brand new ones. The car is used as an everyday work car so it is driven from Crafers in the hills to town 5 days a week and rarely driven on the weekends, so it's pretty much just wasting my petrol money. I have been pulled over about 4-5 times since the crash and have not been defected, although it could be defected if a cop wanted to be a prick, but so can 95% of the cars on the road. I spent about $8000 at once in mods about 18 months ago and had it tuned to 260rwkw. I've listed the mods that I had done all at once: Exedy heavy duty clutch GT-70/36r Turbo Greddy Profec B 2 boost controller Z32 air flow meter Denso high flow fuel pump Nistune chip Splitfire coil packs 3 inch cat-back exhaust 3 inch custom dump pipe 3 inch custom cat These are the other mods that have been done to the car before the above: New bushes and tie rod ends BC Racing coilovers - bought off justjap for $1,100 three months ago (only done a few thousand km's) HKS blow off valve Front mount intercooler (black stealth style) Apexi turbo timer Shift light Air/fuel ratio meter 17" mags Carbon Fibre vented bonnet Small aero side mirrors Xenon headlights Clear side indicators Full fibre glass body kit Rear seats and seat belts removed - can supply B-pillar lock bar (Room bar) Front roll bar Front upper adjustable camber arms Rear adjustable camber arms I may have missed out a few things but as you can see it's had a decent amount spent on it and is ready for drift or track, just needs a retune. You could just keep it as it is and drive it like it is, or spend the time on fixing the front end properly. I'm asking $12,000, and I will consider swapsies with a 4x4, preferably a patrol or navara. Give me a text or call on 0431516718 if interested. Cheers, Tom

bump

Thanks Brendan, I'll get back to you with my order. cheers, Tom

Thanks Brendon. So they are 100% plug straight in for the NEO engine? Sounds great, if I could also grab a price on a set of 850cc or higher that would be awesome, as I'll also be getting another set of 6 for a mate. Thanks for your time, Tom

I'm selling the below parts off my GTT. They are all the old parts I had laying around after doing my last upgrades, most are in great condition. Rear suspension | R34 GTT (fork type) - JIC Magic (Left seems to have lost pressure), otherwise excellent condition, no rubber cracks at all - $200 Stock internal fuel pump for R34 GTT - $50 Stock air flow meter - $50 Stock cat converter - $50 Stock mirrors in gloss black, great condition but right mirror is missing the plastic that connects to door - $50 Return flow intercooler 600x240x60, excellent condition - $200 Rear seat belts with coils, excellent condition - $50 Rear stock seats, slight staining on seats but can probably be cleaned - $150 Stock right head light, none xenon, broken clips and floating clear plastic bit on inside - $200 I have pictures of everything so just send me a text on 0431516718 and I'll send a picture of whichever part. Pickup from Adelaide or bank deposit+postage at buyers expense. Cheers, Tom

Hey Brendan, I'm looking for some top feed high imp injectors for an E85 convert for my NEO. Whats the cheapest option for anything 600c and higher? Thanks, Tom

Selling some parts from my R34 GTT since upgrading: Rear suspension | R34 GTT (fork type) - JIC Magic (Left seems to have lost pressure), otherwise excellent condition, no rubber cracks at all - $200 Stock internal fuel pump, excellent condition - $50 Stock air flow meter, excellent condition - $50 Stock cat converter, excellent condition - $50 Stock mirrors in gloss black, great condition but right mirror is missing the plastic that connects to door - $50 Return flow intercooler 600x240x60, excellent condition - $200 Rear seat belts with coils, excellent condition - $50 Rear stock seats, slight staining on seats but can probably be cleaned - $150 Stock right head light, none xenon, broken clips and floating clear plastic bit on inside - $200 Give me a text on 0431516718, pick up from Crafers in the hills (fun drive up eagle on the hill!), I can MMS any pictures required.

Looking for a Nissan Consult Cable to USB. Send me a text on 0431516718 if you have one. Cheers, Tom

I need an R34 map sensor. give me a text on 0431 516 718.

gay as aids...It would have been nice to see more progress on this but I'm assuming you ran into massive difficulties and never got chance to finish it off, nice work on everything up to this point though!

nice build and great pictures following the build, it's a shame that it's another build that's just stopped! Or did you finish it and you've been having too much fun over the past two years to use your computer?

Nice build guys, the targa events look great fun! Looks like you've had some pretty bad luck with things going wrong...

Scrolling down and seeing those pictures after expecting more build progress made me sob like a baby. So you sold the car before this crash?

The bar was very thick and connected to the chassis, definitely no bending happening

I would also be interested to know how much difference having the HICAS makes, especially when it comes to drifting. I've heard that the HICAS only works above 80kph. Personally I still have the HICAS in my car and like to drive sideways quite often, I wonder if it makes much difference when the wheels are spinning more than 80kph? Opinions from people with experience on this would be great!

I jacked the car up by the centre point just back from the centre of your front bumper, this was for the front strut brace. I believe it would work the same if you jack the car up by the diff, which is what I jack it up by when changing rear suspension, but I don't have a rear strut brace. Let me know if the rear strut makes much difference!

Try ISC Coilovers. They're fairly cheap and they should be able to sell you a new pair of just fronts for under $800 inc delivery. Don't trust second hand shocks, I made this mistake a year ago and would never buy second hand shocks again. In the end I got some ISC's in the rear and they've held up since, cost me about $750. http://www.isc-performance.com/ - give them a call and get a quote As for the windscreen, I would call around for quotes in your area. As for rotors, I've been looking for some myself for my GTT, I've been leaning towards getting DBA's over RDA's as there seems to be too many bad stories about RDA's not being as good quality and warping. These two brands seem to be the main choices for the majority of people, although as you're selling your car maybe just look at getting some stock replacements. If you decide to get DBA's, the front for the GT are DBA 4963 - check the dba website for local suppliers!

That's terrible. I feel sorry for the person who buys that car.

Amazing work and dedication making your car look extremely nice. How do you drive/park it anywhere without having nervous break down!?

That sounds right, so when jacking up the car the suspension struts should widen slightly as the weight of the car is not being placed on them, which in turn should allow the strut brace to be expanded outwards more. Whether or not this should be done or is necessary, I'm not sure, but I did it anyway (about a year and a half ago), and it certainly doesn't seem to have done any damage.

I have a b-pillar 'lock bar' that sits between the two b-pillars and pushes outwards creating chassis rigidness, when I put this in I tightened the sh1t out of it, and found that this made quite a noticeable difference to the handling. For my front strut brace, I jacked the front of my car up (to take the weight off the suspension struts), and then tightened the strut brace quite a bit (not a stupid amount, but enough to apply a decent amount of pressure on the struts). I found that this seemed to make the handling feel more 'stiffer' and responsive. Wasn't sure if the above would do anything positive but gave it a go and it seemed to help!

lol

I'm also looking for an RB25DETT map sensor. Having problems with check engine light coming on under high boost after about 5000RPM in 4th and 5th. The engine cuts out and splurts a lot. Engine management says it's the map sensor. Running a GT 30/76r with Nistune ECU. Anyone else with similar setup having these problems?

R34 GTT Unopened RB25DET GT30/76r +lines Greddy ProfecB II boost controller Blitz 600x240x60 front mount Nistune ECU Denso highflow FP Splitfire coilpacks Z32 air flow HKS BOV Apexi pod Custom 3" dump pipe Custom 3" high flow cat 3" cat back On 98 octane / 16PSI made 261RWKW