The Max

Legend. Thanks dude. For anyone else who may be curious, Amayama seem to be the only guys carrying that particular part number. That being said, when I search based on my VIN, it claims to be a 48463-JK01A instead of 48463-JK00A. Luckily Amayama carries that one too. I already checked with Partsouq and they carry neither.

That's what I was hoping he meant, despite the fact I explicitly asked about the cutouts and not the actual (not literal) buttons themselves. Yes, I know I'm a grammar nazi but I just hate the overly misused word, "literal". Anyway, the reason why I'm a little concerned is that when I looked up the data for that part number in two different drawings from Nissan's EPC sheets, the same part number appeared with the cutouts in one drawing (possibly hinting at cruise control on the right side) and no cutouts at all in another drawing (as well as no button cluster). Given all that, you can see why with so much ambiguity from user and manufacturer alike, I'm a little dubious.

If 48463JK00A is without the buttons, that will not be suitable for me, as I have buttons on the left side of the wheel and so the bezel needs to have the cutouts to accommodate them. I think I'll just remove my wheel one day, disassemble it and look for the part number imprinted on it.

I'm all ears, as I've been dubious about replacing it with another OEM one in case if it's the same materials/coatings. I was going to get mine wrapped. Just checking, this is the bezel with cutouts for just the buttons on the left side for the stereo control, phone, back button and voice control, yeah?

So I'll have to get mine wrapped then. I haven't scratched mine but it did have a couple of scratches on it already. Maybe the previous owner didn't clip their fingernails regularly? Care to message me the link to the supplier? I'm keen to know how much it'll cost me. Would be nice to have a fatter wheel.

Bugger. You've got it pretty tough over there, eh? Good idea to stay off the road until you can get it looked at properly though. You don't want to strip more life off the transmission than it may already have. Good luck mate.

Do they have a better button bezel such that the paint doesn't scratch off the plastic so damn easily? Also, does it feel weird at all with the flat bottom when doing full turns? I just can't help but think the discontinuity in the shape would feel a bit odd.

The code is definitely transmission related but if it seems OK now, perhaps it was a sticky solenoid. Either way, as GTSBoy suggested, take it in to an auto transmission specialist, preferably one who knows these Nissans reasonably well. I don't know how easy or difficult it is to take out the valve body and check the components within, including solenoids but in light of what you experienced and the nature of the error code, it's definitely worth doing in case the fix is cheaper than a rebuild. Don't let it linger for too long, even if it is seemingly OK again now.

My apologies guys. I should've paid further attention to the thread about the part number of that sensor. It's for sniffing out exhaust gas from vehicles in front of you and if it does detect it, then it will revert your intake from fresh air to recirculate so that you don't get stunk out by a bogan's disgusting belching diesel ute. I'll report my last post in order to remove the misinformation.

Despite not having the dash working, how about the rest of the car's electrics? Doors unlock from the keyfob and whatnot? If so, then if there is a device failure, it could be the A/C+instrument module which is the white plastic module that sits above the headunit. That takes a number of sensor inputs and it drives the A/C controls, instrument cluster and the shift lock solenoid. I have experimented on my V36 with this unit in the past when I was sniffing around for a parking brake switch wire, and it yielded the same results. So I would be checking to make sure it has power going to it, as well as all the right signals going in and out of it. Get your hands on the workshop manual and go through the list of signals to trace. Good luck.

The BCM in our JDM vehicles is not to be mistaken as being the same as the USDM or even European market verhicles. They're not. Therefore, you won't find the remote start capability built into the BCM and it's not disabled by anyone when your car reaches the shores of Australia. I don't know where you heard that from but it is simply not true. If you want remote start, you will need to go aftermarket like I did.

Protik, whatever I can't handle in my own driveway, I get my longtime mechanic Adrian at Adrian's Auto Centre at 100 Parramatta Rd Croydon to handle it for me instead. Knows his stuff.

...and the alternative flash tuner is ECUtek. Take your pick.

Rip the boot. You don't have a choice.

Look for a fuse or relay related to the blower/fan. That'll be sufficient.