The Max

Screenshot retained for immortalised stupidity.

http://nissan.epc-data.com/ Look for the sensor in the respective diagram, obtain part number and search away on Partsouq.com, Amayama.com or just Google.

I don't but assuming that Nissan have been consistent, it may be an indication of something by design rather than a stuff-up. ...and nobody else with a V35 has replied to you yet.

Bugger. I'll take a look at my OBD-II connector later tonight then and get back to you.

Question for you. Did you switch ignition on to see if it powered up then? I would have to check my vehicle later on as well but I have a theory about Nissan having wired it up in a possibly unconventional way and rely on power from the ignition circuit rather than direct to the battery on pin 16, for whatever reason.

Fair point. I did indeed misinterpret his question. In which case, I'll answer by saying that a remote turn on for an amp, DSP, whatever, is very low current.

You can never have too high a current. It's high voltage you need to worry about. Put it to you this way: Think of voltage as the push and current as the content that's being pushed. Now, to analogise it, if you imagine the water (current) in a garden hose, put it to your mouth and turn on the tap only slightly to manage the pressure (voltage), you can drink comfortably, consuming only what you need. If you turn up the pressure from your tap (higher voltage), the amount of water (current) is still in the same abundance but you drown because you're being forced to drink more than you need. So basically, as long as the voltage is appropriate, you can have a 100A current supply on that and your end device will still only take the 0.1A (for example) that it needs.

The lamps are in a socket which unlocks with a 1/4 turn clockwise (as seen from the front of the vehicle looking back). You definitely need to take out the air boxes to get the clearance you need but as you've already noticed, the wire harness isn't all that generous. If you're not careful, you could do damage to your wiring. Though I do get away with that method, I would recommend you treat it as a headlight replacement - jack the car up, remove the inner wheel well cover and access it from there.

In my vehicle (2009 model), there was no remote turn-on output on the OEM Clarion system. I used the accessories circuit instead.

Forums would be a lot more useful if more people did so. That's why we come here in the first place. It's just a shame that so many post here about their problems and then fall dead silent so that the rest of us can't learn a thing or two. Granted, I'm not going to pretend that we're all entitled to everyone's knowledge after they've gone through the expense like Scotterjay did, as have the rest of us at one point or another, but I would argue, what's there to gain by keeping the cards close to one's chest when most of us don't do it for a living anyway?

Hahah. Not my flavour.

Exactly what Paul said. I have a Megan Racing muffler on mine for a tasteful note without being obnoxious. Had it not been for the shitty rice boi burnt titanium crap tips, I would've bolted it on myself but I needed my exhaust guy to obtain a couple of tips that were a bit more elegant like the original and weld them on. Seriously, it's only a few nuts and making sure you replace the gaskets.

So it wasn't the BCM after all? Well bugger me! You have nothing to thank me for considering I got it wrong! Good to hear you're back up and running.

Today's update: Replacement battery was definitely MUCH healthier, measuring in at 12.66V. Unfortunately, no change to the original problem though. Start button illumination is still dead. Checked the BCM, power is present at the BCM, the switch contact definitely has continuity to the BCM and grounds when depressed. However, the illumination pin is not being grounded by the BCM, which leads me to believe the BCM has gone bad here, as also indicated in PCS-64 of the G37 FSM. This will need someone with a scan tool that has the immobiliser support (lacking in mine) to facilitate the replacement of a BCM.

So for the benefit of any keen readers here, this is what we've found so far: Battery is not really doing a great job at retaining charge. Fresh off a three hour charge or so, we saw only 12.1V and declining at a relatively brisk rate. Quick in-circuit current test showed a draw of around 200mA upon initial connect and then around half that soon after. Consult III+ software was showing 11.8V at the OBD port, while the battery was still measuring in slightly above 12.0V. After a few minutes, this dropped to 0.0V. No systems were powering up because we couldn't even get the car to switch the IGN power circuit (totally dead start button, including illumination), so no chance of the Consult II+ tool detecting any systems for testing. While I have had my vehicle power up fine with the battery sitting on 11.9V or so, this is likely to be a bad battery. So the advice has been to charge the battery up, until the charger shows approximately 1A draw or less (indicating a fully charged battery). Disconnect from charger, let sit unconnected for 30 minutes or more, then measure the battery with a meter to see if it sits on or around 12.5V at least. If the battery still sinks to around 12.1V or less, it's a dud and a warranty replacement should be obtained. If that still doesn't bring the car to life, the next step will be to check the IPDM, as it is responsible for feeding power to the multiple systems, including the OBD port.