The Max

If they're the OEM rotors and have a fair few miles on them, check to see if they have a little bit of a lip on them. If so, then it's possible that your pad wear indicator (that little bit of spring steel that scrapes the edge of the rotor when low) is prematurely activated by the pad sinking deeper into a thinner disc, thereby making contact with the lip a lot sooner than it should be. Otherwise, as per Dashyy's suggestion, if you don't already have the adhesive between your shims and the pads' backing plate, then you really do need it. My V36 already had that stuff on the shims when I changed my pads, though I'm not sure if that was the work of the compliance workshop here or if that was from the factory. At any rate, the stuff stayed on the shims when I removed them from the previous crappy pads, so I simply clipped them onto the new EBCs with the adhesive intact and I'm still squeal-free to this day.

What discs are you using?

I can imagine the cost of the module would be pretty hefty. Add to that the cost of the rams and all the labour involved, plus the sparkie or dealership to do the CAN diagnostics reset after the fact, I can see why it would add up so quickly. Well, screw them! I'll happily be the guinea pig on this one. After all, I've wasted $500 already on a new IPDM, inherently turning my original one into a spare (since I can't be bothered changing them back over again). What's another $50 on a bit of EEPROM code to flash? Lucky for me, I've already got the hardware to do all this stuff myself, so no further investment there. Hopefully I'll get onto it soon and I'll put the information out for everyone else to take advantage of as well. There's no reason why we should be so wasteful over the idea of a pedestrian slamming their head on one's bonnet. Yes, I am a horrible human being at times. It is what it is. :)

Apologies for once again resurrecting this thread but I need to correct the information that I read in that 370Z link, as well as a couple other sites. It's not the IPDM that needs replacing, as I had read in an R35 UK forum. There is another module, which lives somewhere in the back of the V36, similar in functionality to the SRS Airbag control module. This is the control module the dude in the 370Z link above was referring to. In the case of the 370Z, I believe it's a little easier to get to, as it lives somewhere under the dash, I believe. I'm going to embark on my project of installing a mini computer as my GPS and audio centre soon, in which case I expect to also take the opportunity to find out where the diagram from Nissan is actually pointing to, as it's hard to tell if they're talking about somewhere towards the rear of the cabin or in the boot space. The good news is that once I do find it, I'll be able to remove the EEPROM from the module, read the contents, send the data to a mob in the UK called TachoSoft (www.tachosoft.com), who seem to know which part of the code is the crash data that needs to be erased, as I honestly cannot be bothered wasting however many hundreds of dollars on a circuit that otherwise is still likely to be in good working order. I'll be sure to keep my bonnet open when I plug the battery back in after it's all said and done, just in case. :P

As you can see, MyBrains, you're looking at this all wrong. Remapping an ECU is not a cheap task, even if you can get your hands on a generic map to avoid the dyno. The math dispels any theory for cost savings. The engine is mechanically set up to perform. If you're actually prepared to lose even 10kW of performance, then you really don't want or need a performance vehicle. Obviously, there's no point in doing an engine swap to an SR20DE (HA!) because of the math we spoke of before. So that leaves you with a few options: Drive with a much lighter foot Sell the car and downgrade to a less-thirsty vehicle Rip the motor and drivetrain out and pedal it like Fred Flintstone That's the reality. Personally, I'm not made of money and I'm not happy about the rising fuel costs but I love my car too much to give up anything about it and potentially damage it.

That's surprising.

That's what I heard on the grapevine as well, to the US, if I'm not mistaken.

Talk to UpRev or ECUtek about whether or not they support your vehicle's ECU and for a tuner closest to your area. That's how I do my homework.

...and so many ungrateful buggers wanted to tap into it for nothing. The guy still needed to earn a living for his efforts and experience that gained him that valuable knowledge.

What a spastic installer. That's one guy to avoid in the future. So few appreciate the amount of care required to be taken before, during and after installations. Even fine details like cable pulling lubricant, self-amalgamating tape and glue heatshrink make all the difference in ensuring not only a reliable installation but also a vehicle that doesn't have its existing reliability compromised.

Think about what you unplugged and check those plugs again.

Putting two and two together, this only happened after you had an amp installed. The simplest explanation is typically the most likely one. Whoever told you it was the BCM either isn't aware of the events that led up to this problem or he's taking stabs in the dark.

First, forget about your line-level converters. They are a passive device and don't require any power from your vehicle's power circuits. Their job is to reduce the voltage from your speakers down to something friendlier for your amp and no external power is required to make that happen. Not sure what you mean by testing the plate lights wire and you don't say how. If you turn on your parking lights, with your multimeter set up to measure DC voltage, you should be seeing 12V at your plate lights. Now, hopefully you're taking the initial measurement by putting the probes on each of the two terminals that feed the plate lights. If you have nothing there, the next thing to check is if the ground is OK or not. The way to do this is to keep one of the probes on what should be the 12V wire and touch the other probe on a bare metal object nearby, such as a bolt, chassis, reinforcement bar behind the bumper, etc. If you get the 12V reading I described above, that means the light is getting power and the grounding has been buggered up. In which case, you need to trace the ground wire and see where it has been severed or perhaps not even bolted into the body/frame to begin with! I dare say it's going to be something as simple as that. Judging from what you've mentioned so far about the audio install, your installer probably used the bolt that grounds the lights for your amp and didn't put the lights back under that bolt as well. Take a look at where your amp is physically installed - follow its ground wire and see if there's anything floating around near where it's bolted to your car that looks like it should be actually attached. Confirm it with your multimeter by doing a continuity test, to be sure it's actually going to your lights. As for a short circuit, trust me, if you say that your fuses are OK, it's not shorting out anything, otherwise you'd be blowing fuses constantly. This is the opposite of a short circuit, or what we call in the business, an air gap.

Also, get your hands on a multimeter. Visual inspection alone isn't going to solve this.

Wait. You mean the power source for some of your aftermarket audio components is being drawn from the lighting circuit? Nothing should be intercepting your taillights. They should be left alone and a more suitable power source should be obtained, preferably from the head unit's source instead.