The Max

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The Max last won the day on March 10

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About The Max

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    R.I.P. Max Sr

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    J30 Maxima (RIP) '09V36SP
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  1. I can't give up my side mirror camera. No doubt they're retrofitting USDM units. So what are you doing with your old unit? Do you have to return it to them as a core exchange unit?
  2. Maybe because the relay you swapped it with was for the A/C? At any rate, definitely a dud relay. Replace that and hopefully that'll be all you need to do.
  3. I'm curious as to whether or not one retains the functionality of both the rear and side mirror cameras. In the meantime, I'm thinking of another little project. I recall there being a (Panasonic) OEM navigation module in the boot of the V36 and I'm thinking of developing a navigation unit of my own, built from a little Intel NUC which can live in the same space alongside the Panasonic module and intercept the video signals coming from the OEM unit. I'm hoping it's a DVI feed for clarity's sake but will accept an RGB solution if I have to. Worst case scenario, I'll have to feed the awful composite video input instead. The GPS antenna will be a Garmin module with serial data output to feed the NUC with. Software will be based on a freebie (and maybe later their paid version) of MapFactor Navigator, which uses either open source or TomTom maps. It works well as an app on my phone but no phone has a reasonable amount of grunt to operate reliably, let alone smash the life out of the battery, even with a car charger. The point of all this drivel from me is, does anyone have even an excerpt of the JDM workshop manual that shows the pinouts of the Panasonic navigation module? Google is of no help and I'm close to asking my importer from 2011 about getting in touch with one of his Japanese contacts for one if desperation sets in.
  4. Exactly what Ben suggested. Swap with another one that's known to be working and see if it kicks in. Just don't pick a relay that disables anything else that the AV+A/C system would rely on, in accordance with the workshop manual. If you know someone with access to a multimeter, just check the relay coil to be sure it's still in good working order (compared to another relay) and if it passes the resistance test, then feed the relay coil with a 12V power supply and check continuity between the contactors, as indicated on the diagram that's engraved into the relay. That way, you won't be wasting money on an expensive Nissan relay.
  5. Not necessarily. Wiring harnesses typically come in LHD and RHD flavours, so it's still very likely that those relays and fuses will be on the driver's side in your vehicle, as they are in mine when compared against the US G37 workshop manual.
  6. Have you checked near your accelerator pedal as the diagram indicates?
  7. Extracts of the G35 workshop manual, which might be a good starting point.
  8. It's a long thread but plenty of pointers in here:
  9. Can't say I remember what the cost breakdown was 20 years ago but I do remember it costing me a total of around $7500 at the time. The guys at Level 10 declared it as a repaired transmission, with the costs attributed to labour and very little in parts. They were extremely helpful back then. I'm pretty sure the name of the guy I spoke to was Pat. Really nice folks back then.
  10. Nickcorr is spot on here. It took around four months for my front bumper to arrive. If you want it quicker, it is identical to that of the 2012 G37 but you'll need to convince your dealer to get it in for you, as they usually ask for the VIN. Everyone gets treated as a second class citizen when it comes to imports, even when you have a friend at a dealership like I used to. Nissan Australia make it intentionally painful.
  11. I agree with everything in that article. However, the one pro that I would give to the supercharger setup is that it's friendlier on the stock auto. If you're going to go Level 10, then go nuts with the turbo. I had them build the auto in my old J30 Maxima back in the day when I was on nitrous and eventually turbo. Not a single issue with it and well worth the $7k I paid for it back in '98. It's good to see you doing something different though and I'm keen to get progress updates on this project. It may well pique my interest and finally convince me to go forced induction.
  12. Agreed. Typically, if it's flickering and it is a genuine component failure rather than just a dry joint, it's the semiconductors driving the LEDs rather than the LEDs themselves.
  13. Hopefully the other lesson learned here was don't leave critical shit like that to the last day.
  14. Amen to that. Precisely why I bought my own Consult knock-off scan tool and software. Besides which, I only really trust myself anyway.
  15. No doubt about it, they got you good. I have the same model as you and it has never, ever need the occasional reset for the windows. I've had mine for just over five years and have only performed the reset three times because of disconnecting the battery working on stuff. I would be checking to see what the status is of the passenger door switch when you actuate the driver's door switch. If they're both grounding, that means someone's possibly mucked about with the wiring and got those two door switches working in parallel. I'd be taking a good look at the BCM and its loom for any evidence of tampering/modification. Anyway, that's a side note. Work through this dash light problem first and then progress to the windows. Good luck!