turael

Hi all, Hope this is the right place to post this. We hold backyard race days for friends at our farm in Lake Grace. It's 2500 acres and we have a racetrack on it, complete with viewing platform etc This Aus day we had almost 20 people out there, heaps of cars and heaps of great driving. Every 2nd person had a bloody gopro so there's heaps of footage. Enjoy the video.

Hey Brad, I'll shoot you a PM in a couple of months and if you still have it we can go from there. I'm just in the middle of paving out the back so have no funds, but it doesn't stop me from dreaming. What model is it and price etc - would you send to Perth? Send me a PM if you wish.

Thanks man thats just the info I was after... Would definitely prefer a unimig over a random brand one. Somehow missed the unimig 200 in my searching... Now to find a place to get it cheap in Perth...

Well I've welded MIG alright with pure argon. is TIG a lot more sensitive to the type of gas? Looks like I'll either get two bottles, argon and argoshield, or just do monthly rentals or whatever BOC offers. I've been looking at This TIG, from what I can find online it seems pretty good... anyone used one of these?

I'm just a welding noob but I thought GTAW is supposed to be 100% argon? I'm looking at getting myself a TIG, so this is relevant to my interests... what gas mix do you guys use for ally, and can it be used successfully with stainless and mild steel as well?

While this thread is around, and in the Fabrication section, figure I might ask you knowledgeable folk about TIG welders. I'm fairly OK with a MIG, and I understand that TIG is a different ballgame, but I want to get into TIG work and get myself a welder that will be good for practice, and do some standard automotive jobs (up to 5mm mild steel, aluminium), and not be too costly - it won't be seeing extensive use. Are there brands to watch out for (good and bad) - and what's the basic specs I'll need to weld mild and ally fine? Would something like this suit me: gumtree tig Thanks guys.

I love my bluepoint superlow jack. One of my most prized possessions I have a set of relatively cheap Repco sockets, quite like them. Strong spanners is pretty important imo, snapped the heads of a few smaller cheaper spanners.

Just realised I've seen this on Reddit - haha. Well done, great read.

That's three questions. You'd probably strangle me Brad if you saw what I've done for suspension arm work on my buggy. I'm redoing them and want to do it at least vaguely properly. Was seriously strapped for time when I bodged up the current ones. When I get around to it in a few months I'll post up a thread asking for advice I think.

You'll be wanting the standard set of tools if you haven't got em - decent spanners and sockets. For jap work I like to have some stubby spanners (much shorter versions) on hand. Also some ratcheting spanners are handy and speed things up. Here's a few more ideas to get you started: Hammer Vice Drill press MIG Welder Dropsaw Extension cords - the ones on rolls are pretty handy Work lights LED lights with magnets to help you see extendable magnet pole things to get bolts you drop Trays to store bolts/nuts in etc Drip trays & oil pans Breaker bar rattle gun

Hey mate, can you post up some before and after pics of what you've done? Always interested in suspension/arm modifications.

I ended up buying some $50 cheapie from bunnings that attaches as a drill piece - aside from the drill getting in the way, it was fairly easy. Must be high on crack though cause my lines were pretty shaky. Also found out that using some lube to cool the nibbler is the way to go, or it gets very hot and if you're going through aluminium the pieces will start sticking in the nibbler. I was cutting sheets of ally and ended up using a grinder and zapping it on some steel to clean out the ally gunk every few metres. Nibbler is still great though and has a permanent place in my workshop. I'm still picking half-moon pieces of aluminium out of the bottom of my shoes.

Handheld Grinder, should come with cutting and grinding disks. Maybe get a flapdisk for it too Gloves/gauntlets Clear full face protector Earmuffs Cordless drill Tape measure Paint pen or equiv to mark with Square File, sandpaper Clamps - Irwin clamps - the beefy ones on the left are sweet Probably all you need to make a cooling plate aye?

working on it trying to keep it competitive with the rotor through corners while reducing or eliminating the bumpy ride. lots of rubber bushes in order... next year, should have some sweet updates.

Have you started it since you swapped the player, maybe you just drained the battery

Dunno, haven't had a chance to weigh it. If I had to guess I'd say around a tonne

Hi SAU. For a few years now me and some mates have been taking holidays down at my folks farm in Lake Grace (WA). We take cars out there, thrash them, race them, jump them, destroy them, and video it and later on I put the results into a video for funsies. Lake Grace is covered in salt lakes and pretty flat farm land, so we've made a few tracks out there (latest one this Easter is 2.82km long, going to be set up with a grandstand/observation platform, pits etc). Here is a car list (probably missed some out): Excel - dead Barina - dead Datto 200b - was dead, now living RWD Celica - dead RX7 - was dead, now living Ford 4L - dead Ford 4L - half dead Civic ute - alive 97 Magna - alive skyline buggy - alive Album from latest adventure: http://imgur.com/a/tuxVm/all Here are the videos, in order. Skyline buggy is the last video if you want to skip, they are like 10min each http://www.youtube.c...h?v=JizifqAAvzM Yeah the rb25det buggy went pretty hard. Bit shaky and needs its control arms remade and with sloppier suspension. converting it to manual among other things and it should be ready for next year, lol. thanks for watching, and if you have any bashers in WA you want to give to a good cause....

Love the black P1s. Mmmmm. Also, hilarious numberplate

*shrug* I don't actually know but I'd be surprised if the rad was letting the flow go straight down the end tank Wouldn't it be blocked off on the side? I can't say this happens for all cars, I just know it happened in my case: - coolant top hose was full of air, rad cold, engine hot, looking into rad was static water and a bit of it was coming out - after bleeding properly and giving it a jab of throttle the coolant started moving, could physically see it flowing across the top of the rad My setup is a bit different to most though. Radiator is mounted behind the seats and has something like 6m of hoses to get there. I can see anyone reading this scratching their heads, so here: pic1, rad at back, can see pipes going straight down pic2, pipes in trans tunnel, pipes go under engine and then up I've had to modify the idle a little or it will stall fairly often, I think this is simply because of the effort the pump has to go to to pump the distance. New pump, new belt. Planned upgrade to include an electric pump in the system at the rear to assist.

It's my understanding that the pump pushes water out of the hose with the thermostat in it - so when it's closed there is no flow. If there's a blockage and you take the cap off you can really notice it cause it pours out quite a bit. not sure why yours would be gushing coolant while cold...

hey man can you start it up with a jump then unhook the other batt and tell us what voltage the batt running the car is reading at? what sort of voltage drop are you getting from the boot to bonnet, you mentioned 12 to 11 in your original post? that sounds like it could be a loose/bad connection somewhere

do you mean it drops to 10v while cranking or while idling? if idling, your alternator isn't working.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/MrPs_skyline/Old%20car/Bleeder.jpg circled in red - 10mm bolt - will probably be pretty seized up, once you crack it it should be fine though. don't lose the washer.

Nice heatshield! If the car sees hard work (track days, drift, burnouts), you really want to consider leaving the heatshield on or making a baller heatshield like Phil Mate of mine had his car catch fire under the bonnet due to no heatshield after ripping a burnout at Powercruise. Also in the drift cars with no shield you can sometimes see issues with the paint on the bonnet over the turbs

before you go around diagnosing everything just swap the battery with a working one and see how it goes should read around 13-14v on idle