IM-32-FK

I put a o ring around the part I marked yellow. Or should I put one around the front part marked red?

I changed the suction and return hoses on the power steering tank and changed the fluid to go with it but I’m still having leaking issues. It’s leaking very faintly all it does is just cover the resovoir in a thin film of oil. It seems to be coming from where the two parts of the tank connect, but it could be the cap itself. I have no rubber rings of gaskets on cap, does anybody know exactly where it should go and what sizes? And from the part that connects the two parts of the reservoir , how did you reseal that part?

Dude I hate when people create topics like this when you can just search ‘r34 cabin filter’ on google and get results. Cabin air filter.com.au has some for the r34 skyline. I bought it and installed it and it’s perfect

I was joking. Thanks for the help my man👍

Don’t get replacement ones, you can get the OEM ones regassed. There’s a couple of places in Sydney that I know who do it.

I’m pretty sure coles or woolies sells no frills brand engine oil. Would you put that in your engine too lmao 😂 cheers for the info man, I’ll keep it in there, might as well. Is anything happens a few years down the line I’ll just get it rebuilt. And it’s good to know that’s the standard behaviour of the second gear.

Maybe my gearbox is f**ked and I don’t know. what if it is and change the oil and it suddenly starts crunching? Then I’m gonna have to put lightweight shockproof back in. That’s $300 plus labour right there lmao What’s the best one? I heard redline MT90 with nulon easy shift additive. I WANT THE BEST ONE.

So do you recommend that I change it? It’s been a year and a bit and about 2k km since I put it in.

What is a f**ked box though? I have no crutching issues but sometimes it feels weird putting it into second gear when travelling slow. Like in all the other gears in pops in very good smoothly but with 2nd gear it sometimes feels like it’s hitting something going in. I had to buy a used box when I blew mine and I didn’t open up the gearbox to inspect inside so I just put lightweight shookprrof

I put this in a used pull type rb25det neo gearbox about 2000km ago. It takes like 15 min to fully warm up but then the gearbox feels amazing. But I recently heard that lightweight shockproof can damage the brass parts and synchros in your gearbox. Is there any truth to this? And I read on another topic here that r34 is meant to use super lightweight shockproof and not the standard one? all in all, is lightweight shockproof just something you put temporarily in used gearboxes with wear and tear and should never be put into a rebuilt, new or good condition box? cheers

Isn’t the ceramic coating a wax and afterglow I applied a sealant, not the other way around? My bad lmao

Hey all, Here’s the thing. I bought my skyline way back in late 2014 and I have never clay barred it, polished it or waxed it to this day(2021). I would rate the paint a good 7.5-8/10. Water still beads on it (I never asked but I’m almost certain the previous owner had it clayed polished and put on a good quality ceramic coating wax). But recently a month ago I put Bowdens Afterglow on it. And the water beads a bit better now (see picture). I was wondering if this is a bad move on my part. I’m worried I compromised my ceramic coating wax. Can anyone give me any input on this? Thanks

I still haven’t solved this problem and it’s driving me crazy. I can’t even take my car out at night. Here are some things that I had a look at: - IACV. I cleaned it. Didn’t fix the problem - changed the broken coil pack plug. Didn’t fix the problem - checked the maf wires. Nothing broken - checked CAS wires. Nothing broken - was told it could be a faulty water temp sensor. Disconnected it. Didn’t change anything Like I said the idle fluctuates when I turn the lights on only, rpm fluctuates and voltage keep fluctuating between 13.5v-14.6v. When I turn off it sits at a healthily 14.3v Can anyone please lead me to the right direction?could be alternator or reg be on its last legs?

Well cleaning out the iacv valve didn’t change anything. Could the plug on the coil pack be related to my issue? Is there any fuse or relay that it could be related to?(r34 gtt 25detneo) also I noticed a ticking noise coming from the coil pack cover area. I think it may be arching? If you look from the top of the plug, only half of the top part of the plug is broken

Too late I already put it all back together. It’s a pain to get to the spark plugs on RB’s. Hopefully it holds out for the next six months. Then when I’m changing the spark plugs again I’ll get a new plug. Don’t know why I just didn’t wrap some electrical tape when I plugged it back in. I was thinking about it but didn’t do it. Only after I put it all together I thought that I should’ve . Sometimes when something is done you access your work then wonder why you didn’t do a particular thing. Is there a word for that sensation? on the other hand,I took off and cleaned out my iacv . But I haven’t started the car yet, so it got dark. I’ll see if it worked tomorrow

Hmm, did all the sludge block the IACV you reckon? so taking off the whole unit, what do you recommended cleaning it with? Contact cleaner, degreaser or carbi cleaner? How, just lace the insides with the spray?Also can it simply be removed and put back on without having to readjust anything?

Apexi power fc and OEM injectors. Injector 6 is right below the AAC valve hoses, and I had them leak onto it before. The injector is dirty on the outside. I think either the nipple on the AAC valve is corroded as hell or the hose is leaking. Could it be when I did it 12 flushes it would’ve forced more out and leaked onto injector six? also I’d like to add that when I was changing the spark plugs, a part of the coil pack housing plug broke on cylinder 4, but it is still clipped in sitting tight. But I think this is unrelated im just saying this happened straight after the service

96 r34? The first ones came out may 1998

I just did a service, changed spark plugs, oil and oil filter and flushed out my coolant 12 times before it came out clear. but now when I took it for a drive, the rpms go up and down between 800-1000 when I switch the headlights on, constantly going up and down. what gives? Why am I always unlucky like this

so I’ve been told they are for 1-holding the wipers down at max speed 2- for looks 3- something to do with the snow which one is it?

These flex to the shape of your windscreen for optimum water dispersal

I’ve actually got these on my car right now but I’m trying OEM everything, I even bought all the warning/info stickers that I was missing like SRS airbag and ignition timing sticker

But the driver needs to see out the passenger side too! I might buy another one since they are the same length anyway

Hi, today I bought the OEM wiper arm for my r34 and the wiper arm has a weighted fin on it. Only the drivers side has it. What is its purpose? I’ve never seen them on any other car before

Bro I went to someone I know and got it sorted for peanuts. Inside the clock spring there is also another green plastic thing you need to align too, and I did not know that. I was just aligning the black face of the clock spring . I feel like an idiot