GTSBoy

If there is nothing reliable out there for PowerFC directly, you may be able to synthesise something from Nistune's data. They have curves for the R35 card and you can compare that to the Z32 curve in Nistune and then use that to build an R35 curve from the PowerFC Z32 curve. ie, the relationship of one to the other should be the same for each ECU.

A master cylinder used to be leaking.

So, when you put 12v on it, does it change state?

That does not look to me like the correct solenoid for a Blitz Dual SBC. That looks a lot like the single Blitz solenoid. "Powered" means "when you put 12V onto the terminals and power it". "Unpowered" means.....you guessed it.... Anyway, you can google up the connection diagrams for these things and see how they are supposed to be plumbed up. Better you doing it than me.

No way to tell from that description. Draw a diagram. Clearly label the ports on the solenoid, and mark which are connected when it is unpowered and which are connected when it is powered. Dust shouldn't affect it. Any dust that can settle should blow off pretty quick. The correct cleaner for AFMs is CO contact cleaner or the dedicated spray stuff for AFMs.

Stock wastegate spring pressure is 5 psi. That is very close to 0.38 bar. I would suggest that your boost control solenoid is not functioning. This could be because it is stuck, or because the PowerFC has lost its mind after being left for 2 years (possible, but it really shouldn't happen). Or it might be a plumbing problem. If the PowerFC has lost its mind, then it could explain everything.

eBay.

I have RS4s. I like them, but if I can get AD08Rs at a non-life threatening price, I will likely go back to them. RE003s were totally disappointing. I shouldn't have been disappointed, knowing what they were, but they were just totally meh.

No. Can't take the torque of even a slightly boosted 25. Will suffer input bearing failure after a while. Have VG bellhousing, so you need an RB bellhousing (the whole front half of the case) to make a hybrid. This is only a successful endeavour if you don't have to go out and get all the things, otherwise you might as well just get a 25 box. If you're starting from scratch and want to make it hella strong and are not afraid to spend money and time, then a T56 or Tremec or similar box could be worth investigating.

Yep.....not the appropriate application for helicoils. There is a particular drill size and tap for every helicoil. Slopping them into the wrong size thread is sketchy.

No. Not a problem.

That's quite a lot of work you've taken on there. Good on you.

This guy bothers me. They burnt the unused direct injectors up on the dyno. He did not remove them beforehand. Anyone with a 3W dashbulb brain would have expected them to fail. This is on the most recent WTF!??!!? moment I have had watching his stuff. He's like a total amateur. Defo not an expert.

3D printing of metal is possible. We've been doing prototype dev of burner components in high alloy stainlesses, and you can do Al, and Ti and all sorts. The problem with 3D printed metal parts is that they are not as strong/reliable as anything made from one piece, whether that started as cast or billet or forged. They are billions of little blobs of metal spray welded together. They are not even as good as conventional sintered pieces. Some might come out perfect, some might have high voidage in just the wrong spot, etc etc. Great for prototyping, but difficult to use for volume mnaufacturing, because of both cost and the quality issues. For something easy like an inlet manifold, yeah, OK, likely to go alright. For a suspension or engine component - wouldn't easily get me trusting my life to it.

Which means that the car you look at is not engineered. As defectable as if it never had an engineer approve the rest of the mods. Granted, at least some of the mods are fine, but that doesn't help you when you get pulled over by a prick on a bike.