GTSBoy

And lethal fuel mixes.

It's actually very simple. Start with something that Hypergear says about one of his larger single turbos for RBs. It can be installed as internal or external wastegate. if internal, it can be low mounted off the stock manifold. It will make ~100kW more when high mounted with external gate than low internal. It's all about the pipework, the crowding, the compromises and the big wastegate. Anything you try to jam into the spot where the factory twins live is going to be compromised by the the tight confines.

A much better option (than what PFC offers) is just Nistune with a windows tablet mounted somewhere/how.

Which is...... 1000HP twins don't look low mount and stock.

To be fair, I have a short length of vac line in my glovebox, because I have been left stationary a couple of times in the past when a piece somewhere did something it wasn't supposed to.

I might also point out that unless you are prepared to make a bump steer gauge and learn how to use it, and sink many hours into playing with the settings, OR, you pay a really good wheel aligner (with the requisite measuring equipment) to spend a lot of time on it, you can't just change the traction arm length at random without potentially making it a lot worse than doing nothing at all.

Yes yes yes. You change the camber arm length without changing the tow arm and you will change the bump steer curve, and not for the better. It has nothing to do with toe angle setting. It has to do with how the toe angle changes as the wheel goes up and down.

The best answer so far is NOS. Two of the big ones.

That's not necessarily how torque works.

You are probably one of 0.05% of Kia buyers who would even consider the question of the quality of the paint. The vast majority of their customer base think of the paint on their car in exactly the same way they think of the paint on their toaster. And for that reason, Kia give no farks for paint quality. It doesn't matter what it is like new, because it falls off of all Korean cars within about 5 years anyway.

Um....is it not that the signal and signal earth are both inside the shielding? In which case, why be surprised that they are shielded. The voltage between those wires can be as low as 1V, so it makes sense to protect them from RFI. The shield should be earthed at the other end (ie, it should only be earthed at one end).

I think ultimately what holds the PowerFC back is that when you get to the point where the stock CAS becomes too unreliable to generate your timing, you have no (easy) way to implement a crank trigger.

Can't be. That's not how they work.

I'm going to give you 2 pieces of advice. 1. Don't cross post the same question across the different SAU forums. 2. This has been asked, done and answered so many times that all you need to do is search and you will find the literally hundreds of threads that all start with your question and all end with the 3rd piece of advice.

I have highlighted the word that demonstrates that your vehicle's roll stiffness is not what is causing your perceived problem. Roll is not and cannot ever be worse when going slowly, as the mechanical forces acting on the car are lower when going slowly. You get more roll with more speed. 'Twere I you, I would ponder the fact that BC and similar barrel bottom dampers only adjust the rebound rates and not the bump rates with their clicks. Their fairly crude damping valve stacks may well be sufficiently poor to allow too much compression when loaded over a long period (ie, a slow corner). It may well be a damping problem.

R33 calipers are hydraulically identical to R32 calipers, and in fact should feel firmer because they physically flex a little less, being iron instead of alloy. So, no, it should not be spongey and it is not a feature of this combo. The brakes are simply not properly bled, or there is a hydraulic problem. How are you bleeding them? Manual pump the pedal? You may have stuffed your master cylinder's piston seals by pushing them past the end of the normal travel into caked on crap on the cylinder wall. That can tear the seals. It happens. Power bleeding is much more effective. Also, have you made sure that you've put the calipers on the correct sides?

No, the next step is to use a coolant tester to find out if there is CO2 dissolved in the coolant, forming acid, which tends to be proof positive of a blown headgasket blowing combustion products into the coolant.

S13 R200s are the same as R32 R200s with the exception that S chassis cars had 6 bolt (but the crappy 3x2 6 bolt, not the bug strong GTR style 6 bolt) axle flanges and turbo'd R chassis cars had 5 bolt stubs. You'll need to swap. Plus, the 4 cylinder cars usually had very different gear ratios. R chassis cars were >4:1, S chassis cars were <4:1.

Credit card. RAA card.

Don't encourage the desecration of a dwindling supply of nice cars.

I would just like to mention, once again, that there is no such thing as a sway bar, except in the context of trailers. We are talking about anti-roll bars here. When manufacturers describe them as sway bars, they are only pandering the the drooling masses, so they don't have to try to educate them. So don't go saying "But Whiteline/BrandX/etc call them swaybars!!!11!!!11onejuan!" I would also like to point out that when you get up to 27mm bars, there's almost no room for any bush on the body mount! So rubber should not be significantly worse than poly at that point. At 24mm, poly it. I would also like to mention that with really stiff bars, other parts of the car start to deflect under the loads. You have to think about the mechanics (ie, the physics) of what the bar is doing and not pretend that everything it is bolted to is as solid as a rock and not going to deflect under heavy loads.

Acid test the coolant.

Sheee'll be right.

Got news for you bro. 95% of us are in Australia with that diff. But you did ask for "on-line".

Get the smallest highflow option that Hypergear offers. You want boost on as early as possible in a big heavy bus.