GTSBoy

I would suggest that you stop doing what you are doing and take the car to an auto-electrician. I don't think replacing the alternator was likely to be the correct response to what appears to be a wiring problem elsewhere. The likelihood that we can diagnose what the real problem is across the internet is, on all previous evidence, f**k all.

As if you wouldn't put a massive Yank crate motor in the thing. This is why the USA exists!

Why not power it up and measure it?

Well, yes. They could be stickier or less sticky than previous. To cause tramp, it's more likely that they are more sticky rather than less. They could have a different sidewall stiffness and/or different inflation pressure. Try a bit more and less pressure ans see which feels better. That might help tramp and make handling worse, so you may have to find a new compromise. I have axle tramp. I will never do anything to get rid of it that will adversely affect the lateral grip of the rear end.

That is just insane. You'll very soon be able to get a 400Z for about the same coin. Objectively about 30x better.

The fact that it is behind the centre console doesn't mean it has anything to do with gauges. It actually belongs on the other side of the steering column, next to the fuse box.

I usually remove my pipes to work on the PS pump/belt.

Yeah, well, I assumed RWD sump put on the 26. Better than hacking up 26 sumps.

+ Autospeed intercooler water spray controller. Very effective way to boost intercooler effectiveness. Could implement something similar these days with an Arduino for peanuts.

Yes, the top one is the pivot.

The adjuster doesn't "loosen". It "adjusts". I would suggest that the pivot is seized. Spray some WD or similar.

There's a locking bolt you have to loosen, and then there's the adjuster that you have to deliberately screw in and out to change the pump position/tension. It doesn't just flop around on its own. The adjuster is accessed from the side, down low under the pump.

You obviously eventually understood.

You don't need a new crossmember. The GTR crossmember cannot be put into the RWD chasssis anyway. You just need engine mounts, and I'm pretty sure your RB20 ones will fit. If they don't google up what other people have done. It's not hard. What gearbox are you going to use? Don't say the GTR gearbox, because it won't fit. It just won't fit. Don't even think about it. And don't say you're going to use the RB20 gearbox, because it won't survive. The RB26 makes more torque than the little box can handle. You will need an RB25DET gearbox. And then you will need the front half of a tailshaft to suit, and then you will need to take your R32 tailshaft and the front half of the (likely R33) shaft and some careful measurements to a drive/shaft manufacturer (like Hardie Spicer) and get them cut and shut together. There is no other way to do the tailshaft properly. Nothing off the shelf will work.

Just leaving this here ....

Yeah, but in places where they are functionally different, like port sizes and valves. Even Nissan wouldn't be so daft as to make completely different cam tunnels, etc etc. So much easier just to make it all the same.

Break out the wiring diagram and multimeter. Start looking for power and earths where and when they are supposed to be there.

Of course they would. What makes you think they might be different?

They f**ked. Just from a 2s visual. Rubbed through all over the place.

There is a breather system, via the charcoal canister in the engine bay, to a vacuum source on the inlet manifold. This is an emmission control to prevent fuel vapours escaping to atmosphere. They are caught in thee charcoal canister and burnt off when the engine is running. This system should be plumbed up properly and working because it doesn't hurt anything and is good for the environment. If it is not plumbed up and working properly, then it could cause all sorts of odd behaviours. But I would be very surprised if it could interfere with starting. A pressurised tank would not make it hard to start. Should make it easier to prime the fuel rail, if anything. If it is pressurised, then that could just be from warm fuel, but, if some numpty has plumbed it up wrong, it could be boost, which would be bad, and bad. You could pop the tank in the most extreme outcome imaginable.

Whilst it's quite unlikely that you won't have interference problems with those cams, you may well be the first person to try doing this specific thing. So the risk falls upon you. The only possible concern would be that the hi comp pistons will offer a little less clearance. But it's not as if the lift or duration are particularly excessive, and 10+mm lift with >280° duration, plus dialling in back and forth, is known to work in DETs..... it seems you should be OK.

Possibly about $3k at a crash shop.

Don't f**king start. Measuring pressure by the height of a column of liquid is even f**king worse!!

Proper in Australia? Carbonetics. Pretty dear though. Otherwise, there are numerous available on eBay, Aliexpress, etc. Also, here's the rubbers https://justjap.com/collections/bnr32/products/nissan-rear-boot-lid-wing-spoiler-inner-mounting-seal-right-side-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

It's not metric. It is a bullshit unit. The unit of force is Newtons, not kg. The kg is a unit of mass. It is not even a unit of weight, because technically there is no such thing as a unit of weight. Weight is force, and the force depends on the acceleration or the local gravitational field. So, here on the surface of Earth, where the local gravity is about 9.807 m/s^2, the force created by a resting 1kg of mass is 9.807 N. If you express that as kg of "weight", what you are saying is kg.f (meaning "kilograms force"), which as I said before, is meaningless. Because on Mars, the force you'd get from 1kg of mass is about 1/3 of what is here. On the Moon, about 1/6, and on Jupiter it's like 2.5x as much or something. The next bit of bullshit is the use of centimeters. Builders use mm. Engineers and scientists use metres. Only dressmakers use cm. And no-one should use square centimetres for anything. The only acceptable units of pressure are those that are mutliples of Pascals, or those that are understood to be exactly equivalent to a multiple of Pa. 1 Newton per square metre. Lovely. Anyone caught using N/mm^2 should have their thumbs pulled off. That's an MPa. So, the use of a bullshit unit of force divided by a bullshit unit of area, to produce a bullshit unit of pressure that is close to but not actually numerically the same as a quite reasonably good near SI unit of pressure (the bar, being 100 kPa) is bullshit. I only use psi and inches and feet and atmospheres and cubic furlongs because those are the standard bullshit units used by a disturbingly large fraction of the population and you simply cannot break the inertia. But there is no reason to go along with a double bullshit unit like kg/cm^2.