GTSBoy

Nope. Adelaide, yes. Knight Engines. Butt not Melbs.

Plastic compressor wheel is very quiet.

Other way around. Stock is 1.1mm, gapped down means smaller, ie 0.8mm. Gapping them down can (and will) help if the coils just aren't good enough to run against the boost....but these days any misfire should be taken as a reason to upgrade the coils. Yaris, Audi, R35 GTR, etc are all options these days.

That's all repairable. It won't be cheap, but it could be fixed.

Needs better coils.

No, E85 makes condensation. Because of the much higher hydrogen:carbon ratio of ethanol compared to 7-9 chain length hydrocarbons, it simply make a higher % of water vapour in the exhaust gases and therefore you get more of that condensing in the oil. Oil/sump temperature will be about the same regardless of 98/E85 fuel in use. It's the upper end of the engine that runs cooler. The bearings still make a lot of the heat that turns up in the oil, probably more on E85 if it's got more timing/boost/power. But the water is continuously being made. It should be safe to return it all to the sump, because the water should boil off again, but by the same token, if there's enough in there it will sink to the bottom of the sump, get priority pickup by the oil pump and f**k the bearings in short order. So, a large catch can and a very decent breather system that can pull off water vapour before it condenses and send it to be burnt are probably the wisest idea.

Coil cover yes. Engine cover no.

I endorse this product and those who use it.

I would suggest that you have torn the diaphragm. That hole is to make sure that the back side of the diaphragm is open to atmosphere so you don't get any pressure in there when the diaphragm is moved forwards/backwards by the boost signal on the connected side. An EBC solenoid valve is a calibrated leak from that signal line, so yes, air should be able to pass to the wastegate, regardless of the state of the solenoid (on, off, working, broken).

Running an oil cooler? Might need to be hotter. Any chance that it's simply a bit rich somewhere in the operating range and washing down?

I use the handbrake at full crank to brake check kunts who are tailgating me. No brake lights gives them an even bigger scare.

15° manual, 20° auto.

The bearings are OK pricewise. High side, but you have to expect markup over what you can get them for yourself. The labour to change the rear ones seems exhorbitant. Over 6 hours? Same at the front. The spray welding may or may not be necessary, and it is outside labour, but it also seems a bit high. The start price is probably OK. The labour for it is probably double what it will actually take. The service at $300 is probably OK.

Should be able to recipro them out. You can also use a drill to punch holes in them (if you can access the end of the bush well enough) to remove material to make other tools easier to use.

Drifters should not use the tiny little handbrake stuff on Nissans. That is why hydraulic handbrakes exist. But also, drifters should know better and expect their shit to break/wear out anyway.

That table would probably be better with 1.25 restrictors instead of blocked off for the standard pump cases. That would include the N1 pump, because it's really not that much larger (if at all) than a stocker. Neos have the N1 pump, for example.

I hate to say it, but it sounds like you have something put back together wrong. Gasket blocking a gallery or other opening, hoses in the wrong places, something like that.

Intimidate? In real terms, it doesn't matter what the cops drive. The idea of high speed pursuits is so anachronistic these days that it doesn't matter whether they drive Camaros, R35 GTRs, Passats or Yarises. They will either call off the pursuit because "too dangerous", or they will chase you. The only place you can realistically outrun any other vehicle these days is highways, and helicopters love highways. Helicopters are what the cops are really using to intimidate motorists these days.

I'll handle this one Ben. The answer is compressible conrods.

Yuh, because a bleeder is 11ty times easier than new pistons. If I was building my Neo right now, I would be putting in higher comp pistons and you could not convince me to do otherwise.

This is where the nonsense is. The engine will rev according to how much power it is making vs the load applied to it. If you are still maintaining that higher compression will make the engine rev more slowly, then we still have a problem.

Additional restriction is a thing when the oil pump has been upgraded. Not just a "because" thing.

What is wrong is the allusion to .... Because it is not relevant. Just because the higher CR makes it harder for you to spin it by hand, it does not mean that the piston motion will be made slowed when the motor is running and having to work to compress to a higher ratio. That is because the compression is being powered by power that results from the extra compression in other cylinders, and there is more of that than is required to to drive the compression event. You can't just take part of the engine cycle out of context of the other parts, say something about it is true (when it is true only in isolation, but not true when put back into context) and then go on to draw conclusions about how the motor will run.

Still wrong. For every extra bit of compression working against the piston on the compression stroke, you have more power than that working against another piston on the power stroke.

Thermostat in backwards? What did you do to it that lead you to need to bleed it up? Just a coolant change, or some dismantlery?