GTSBoy

Fuel pump dead/dying or power supply to it dodgy, per trident's suggestion.

There were a lot of NA Skylines, Cefiros, etc made with RB25DEs in them. There are many of these boxes still available in Japan. If you need one, don't be trying to look in the USA, where there will be almost none. Try looking at the source. Consider using Jesse Streeter or one of the other buying & shipping agents who live over there to get you one.

Fair enough. But it doesn't change the fact that you have broader options for original source of your gearbox.

Doesn't have to drip on the floor. It's clearly a slow leak - it's only a film on the pan. It probably only weeps out when it's running and has some pressure somewhere.

I think the general assumption is that the hamfisted will be more hamfisted with a short shifter.

RB25DE gearbox is exactly the same gearbox as the RB20DET. The small frame gearbox. RB25DET gearbox is much larger. It's the big frame gearbox that was used in Z32s, Nissan pickups (and the GTR, essentially). That box would definitely require tailshaft modifications, although that is no problem. Every single person who has put an RB25 gearbox into an R32 here in Australia has carted the necessary parts off to the tailshaft workshop (usually Hardy Spicer) and had them cut and shut them together. Hardy Spicers have done it so many times that you don't even need to take measurements! They know the lengths off by heart. It's not hard. I am very surprised that you think you can use the 260Z tailshaft against an RB20 gearbox anyway. I would have thought that the back end of the L260's gearbox would have been different to the RB20's.

That seems a little like overkill. I just noticed in the 1st photo that it appears to be wet from up on the side of the box, not just the pan. Look for leaks from up high.

I'm not sure I follow. The RB20DET manual gearbox is physically exactly the same as the RB25DE. You unbolt one, bolt in the other.

Also RB25 NA box is the same thing. Slightly different ratios, but actually a better choice.

Rear main seal? As in engine rear main.

You want -0.75° to -1° at the rear. More than that will lead to rapid wear on a street car. At the front, up to 2°, but better at 1.5°. I have been running slightly more camber in the last year than previous, and I can see the wear difference on the inner edges - very clearly.

Gear position / neutral has nothing to do with it. You have just experienced something weird. As my crystal ball is currently out getting resurfaced, I am unable to discern what caused it. Please call another psychic.

This would be a flat battery.

What do you mean "keep my box and diff"? Keep the box and diff from the R32, or from the R33? The R32 gearbox will not enjoy RB25 torque. The diffs are basically the same. I would strongly suggest you do some searching, because this is by far not the first time anyone has asked what it takes to drop a 25 into a 32.

No. The steel on steel spherical joints make life uncomfortable. They also tend to wear and are not really the best option for a street car. The hard rubber bushes are not any rougher than polyurethane, which used to be my standard choice, but poly has its own issues. You will note that I am being hypocritical here. The GKTech FUCAs have 3(!) spherical joints on each (in fact, they actually have 5 because there's another pair inside the big end). I have had trouble with these wearing on my car, but as it turns out, not as much trouble as I thought. That's a whole other issue. Anyway, the point is that I am prepared to put up with some sphericals on my (street) car, but not prepared to put them everywhere and turn the NVH up to 11 everywhere.

Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS. Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

Splitfires are not expensive now. They are the same price as they have ever been, possibly cheaper in real terms. They are still the cheapest & easiest way to do a coil upgrade. They are, however, not really any different in terms of performance & quality than the original Nissan ones, which have been popping up here and there over the last few years. The problem with buying "OEM" ones is that they are probably easier to counterfeit. The smart approach these days is to replace with a modern pencil coil. Your choices are to buy a kit that uses Toyota/Denso coils (such as Yaris, or any of the 1ZZ tyes) and necessary wiring adaptation & mounting bracket, or to buy Nissan type (R35 GTR, VQ370 types) and the necessary stalk adapters and mounting plate. The Toyota options are cheaper as kits. The easiest/best Nissan options will cost you over $1k, but are the absolutely f**king duck's nuts in terms of performance capability, for a coil that can fit in the factory spot.

Nah. Has to be injectors mounted off the end of the trumpets firing down their throats, for maximum backfire flamage.

There's a very big difference between "lubricant" in upper cylinder lubricant and "lubricant" in terms of what might keep pumps and injectors happy. The former is lead or calcium or some other mineral based thing to cushion the valves on the seats, and the latter is going to need to be some type of oily lube.

Red's dead baby. Red's dead.

I'm pretty sure I saw rear bumper skins on eBay recently. Perhaps from Tacoma Nissan in Washington State.

Teins have traditionally had very hard springs and dampers that may or may not have been appropriately matched. They have reputedly gotten a lot better in the last 10 years, but I'm still leery of them. Hell, even just 7(?) years ago I decided to go with modified Bilsteins and separate springs rather than coilovers. But these days, I would just spend the money. ~$2.5k buys you a hell of a lot of very well built coilover these days.

No, not quite. The 20 has a shorter stroke so the piston speeds are noticeably lower. You still need to take care of the other things that can get in the way of revs (lifters/shims, springs, etc) but there are plenty of RB20s that have been turned to nearly 10k. Very few 25s ever get turned that fast. Well......it depends on what you mean by "all of the stock sensors". Of course it's injected, so it has full management (although why she put a bloody F-CON on there along with a Link ECU, I'll never know!). Having ITBs on an aftermarket ECU is easier than trying to do it on the Nissan ECU. You have freedom to do whatever is necessary to get a TPS onto it, whereas with the Nissan ECU you'd be trying to use either the original TPS or something else OEM Nissan that looked the same to the ECU. Everything else needs to be what the ECU requires. The F-CON / Link must be running from MAP because there's nowhere for an AFM to be installed on that engine. You still need water temp sensor, but with non-Nissan ECUs it could be any water temp sensor. The CAS must stay, unless replaced with expensive crank triggers. That's about it to make it run properly. Easier often comes with cheaper. It's not really true in either case with this decision though. Going carbs will cost more in time, effort and money than keeping the injection. If you put carbs on it you're going to have to come up with an inlet manifold and solve all the other issued I've raised. If you keep injection, the inlet manifold comes for free, the management problems go away. You only need to add the fuel system (which should take an afternoon and a few hundred bucks on top of the pump cost). The only way you could make the injected option as hard for yourself as the carbs option is if you wanted to have ITBs. Then your manifold problem comes back and some of your ECU problems start to come back. This would almost certainly be the most expensive option (sound the best though, see that video, above!).

Yuh, that's the killer. With coilover options like KW and MCA these days, it's very hard to argue for decent separate damper and spring upgrades.

Surely it's just the Japanese version of BSP, which is exactly the same as BSP, and hardly uncommon?