GTSBoy

Drive across to the UK and get a hydraulic workshop from a more liberal regime to do it for you!

No, you cannot just take the yoke from the uni joint on one and replace the same piece on the other. It will be the wrong length (even if the uni joints are compatible, which I'd assume they are not). You have to take the front half of the R33 tailshaft and the front half of the R32 tailshaft to be cut and shut together. You end up with a front half of tailshaft where the front end suits the gearbox and the back is R32. In order to do this successfully, you need a measurement of how long the resulting front piece needs to be, because it's not the same as either the R32 or R33 piece. If you go to Hardy-Spicers almost anywhere in Australia they have done so many of these that they already know what length you need. Otherwise you will need to very carefully measure the required length from the back of the gearbox to the centre CV joint, allowing for movement of the spline in the gearbox. Are you talking about the gearbox crossmember? There are 3 of these commonly found in these Nissans, with various gearboxes. Marked A, B and C. You will need one of them. I think, because you're starting with an auto, you might even get lucky and need the one you already have. But if it won't work, just go to the wreckers and buy and/or borrow the other 2, with a promise to return the one you don't end up needing.

The shifter certainly won't They are completely different gearboxes. As to the wiring plugs....the wiring is part of the car. All you need to do is make the connections. If the plugs are different, get the right plugs. My car has has an auto, an 20DET manual (and a 25DE manual) and a 25DET manual in it. I think I had to change the plugs on at least one of the switches on at least one of those conversions. It's not rocket science.

It's been 8 years now, ~80000km, and no change in shift quality on my box from the first time it managed to change gears with smurf's blood in it. Yes. I bought it for Neo my engine conversion and it changed gears nicely when not spinning, but would not while the engine ran. Changed to lightweight and it would change gears straight away. I can never understand the "kill this" mentality. I bet you I could happily drive your gearbox for the next 10 years.

I have lightweight in my box. When it was first installed it would not shift with the engine running at all (with normal gear oil). Redline brought it back. Of course, as a consequence of owning an ALFA for many years, I also know how to manage a baulky gearbox. Learning to drive properly >> bandaid fixes & snakebloods.

Here is an EFR 83mm turbo, the 8374. https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-8374-turbo-2/ The bottom end of that turbo's range is in the 500HP (engine) region. Can make a lot more. Here is an EFR 91mm turbo, the 9180. http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/files/pdf/dimensional_reference/efr/EFR%209180-C.pdf Obviously the 9180 is ~20% bigger than the 8374. These things work at really high pressure ratios. I just pitched you big turbo sizes because you're talking about a 3L twin cam. It is a decent sized engine that can definitely drive a big turbo. But if you don't think you will be needing to go near 800+ engine powers, then smaller options make sense. There are many smaller EFRs. The Garret G series has lots of options too. The latest gen GTX turbos are still worth a look. Even BW SX turbos are good for more crude (and a bit cheaper) applications. One thing you will have to pay attention to is the inlet and outlet style and size on the exhaust side (no point buying a T4 flanged turbo if you have a T3 manifold, for example), and whether you need to add one or more big external wastegates. Another thing to think abotu is that a proper twin-scroll turbine inlet and manifold is the very best idea. Not all of these turbos offer all these things at all sizes. You will have to pick what is most important to you and live with the compromises. You could also get a Turbo from Hypergear here in Oz. He will have something that will do the job for you. Very "offbrand", but decent gear nonetheless. Much better than that horrible Turbonetics thing.

You want at least an 84mm turbo, maybe even a 91. Big one from the EFR range, or Garrett G series. What is your power target?

I'm trying to work out if the spool being discussed belongs in the diff or not.

No, it has to have "E Brake Handle Brake Drift Spin Turn Knob Lock Button" in the description.

What? Nismo are the same shit as that Sard shit. Bosch, Denso, Siemens et al have all been producing newer design injectors over the 20 years since those Sards were state of the art (if they ever were). Any Bosch EV14 based injector is going to be a millions times better. Shit, even an EV6 based injector will be nearly 2 decades newer tech. There are hundreds of vendors selling EV14 or equivalent Denso (and other manufacturers) injectors with conversion plugs, rail spacers, and flow matched sets. Here's just one example in Australia, at Goleby's https://www.golebysparts.com.au/products/rb26-bpp-fuel-rail-kit-bosch-1000cc-injectors-fpr800-fuel-regulator?variant=31930369081453

I would suggest a few things; Do not make any presumptions about fuel pressure without a fuel pressure gauge fitted. It is so easy to do, and answers so many questions or at least stops you worrying about things that are not real. A vehicle posture cause for rough idle is far more likely to be some air leak somewhere, opening up at that angle, closing up when flat. Or maybe a PCV valve or something flopping into a stuck open/closed position.

I would only use it to fire a Gurney's water heater.

The injection/atomisation quality on new design injectors is much better than those shitty of 555s. Why would you voluntarily stick with shitty injectors?

Wow.

Resistor in place of sensor. 470 kOhm, IIRC.

No. Question. What diff does it have in it? Stock VLSD shouldn't act the way you describe, but if some arsehat has shimmed it, then it could act incorrectly. If it has a mechanical LSD in it, then the behaviour you describe sounds typical. Note that it is important that you know what sort of diff you have in it, because stock VLSD does not want LSD oil (wants normal diff oil) and mechanical LSD definitely needs LSD oil. If it's not in the diff, then other causes for the stuff you talk about include worn out CV joints.

Surely there is little to no difference to other Nissan caps from the same era? J31 Maxima with the same sort of engine, for example. In which case, the Tridon catalogue points you to a rad cap number of CB1390. So you walk up to the Tridon rack at Supercheap/wherever with your V36 rad cap in hand and see if it looks the same, has the same rating. if it does, you buy it. If it doesn't, you look at the other options that you will have pre-planned by skuzzing through the Tridon catalogue to look for other Nissan models from the same period that might be similar. I mean, it's not as if rad caps are a high technology model specific thing.

Is the left rear tyre bald yet?

In that case CIG make an excellent diff.

If you like the roughest nastiest LSD option, then sure. There are a number of others that are nicer to live with.

But, you may be able to do something equivalent. ie, make a plug that can replace it.

Aaaah.

Undo engine mounts and......

First world country that is smaller than most states in Australia. Just drive to a place that can build you a line. I can think of 15 places within a 1hr drive of where I live that will build a power steering line for me. All of them industrial hydraulic places. You should tell your weenie TUV koolaid drinking Euro regulators to shut up and just let people make a hydraulic hose.

Tells the ECU that you're loading up the engine. Wiring diagram tells all.